Some one said that if you steell wool a few rounds on the inside of the neck of cases when preparing them that it would help stop flyers. I don't have any flyer problems except with my Marlin .41 rifle. Three through the sam ehole then a flyer. I can shoot 50 rounds from my 7.7 and never a flyer.

quote:

Originally posted by Blob1:
Some one said that if you steell wool a few rounds on the inside of the neck of cases when preparing them that it would help stop flyers.

And a woman rubbing toilet paper between her breasts will increase her breast size. We know this works because it worked so well on her tusch.

Vapo, funny stuff . I think there is some merit if you get passed the specifics of the claim. Cleaning the necks before & after you size the cases gets the carbon & lube/grit out of the case so that bullet pull is more uniform. I use a case neck brush before I size & a wool mop w/ degreaser after. If I am neck sizing only I omit the cleaning after sizing because there is no lube.

I always use a neck brush to clean the inside of the neck before I resize. Don't bother with steel wool, just trying to remove powder residue.
Peter.

I de-cap all the cases after firing and put them in the tumbler for several hours which cleans all the powder residue out of the neck and case before I full size them. This also removes any mi-nute scratches from the bolt, dirt, etc. After full sizing and trimming I noticed some real small scratches on the inside of the neck. I was using an RCBS trimmer with an electric motor hooked to it. I started to use a bit of oil inside each case before trimming and those stopped. Someone on this forum had mentioned running some steel wool in the inside of the case and I believe mentioned some kind of wax to use when seating bullets. I oil the inside of the neck before resizing. But was wondering about the inside of the neck and removing the scratches in there. As far as the toilet paper on the tush increasing the size, some men may actually fall for that. But only if thier tool isn't of such quanity to enlarge it. If it is the case of a an awful small tool, then don't believe the toilet paper excuse when she tells you. There most proabley is someone else in the wood pile!

quote:

Originally posted by Blob1:
Some one said that if you steell wool a few rounds on the inside of the neck of cases when preparing them that it would help stop flyers....

Probably one of my posts since it does "help" eliminate "my" fliers.

The first problem is a nick or scratch getting on the Bullet Base Edge will cause it to become a flier. Anyone that doubts it, just nick up a few Bullet Base Edges and try them out at 300-500yds. Doesn't matter if you use Flat Base or Boat Tail, just compare the groups to some you did your best to protect during Seating. No need to go farther out, cause it will show up right well there.

So then all of a sudden, a few bullets need to be pulled for whatever the reason, and you will probably notice the Edge of the Bullet Base and the sides of the Bullet that were in the Caseneck show longitudional scars, even if you are using a Lyman VLD or Sinclair Chamfering tool. Obviously came from the sharp edges remaining inside the Caseneck after the Chamfering. Really noticable on Moly coated bullets.

Thought about it for awhile and wrapped some good old "0000 SteewWool" around a 22 Bore Brush, inserted the "Polishing Brush" into one of the plastic RCBS handles and gave it a few twists in the Caseneck. Slicked it right up. Easy to see the difference with an Inspection Loop.

Now you can Seat a bullet to it's normal depth, Pull it and will notice no nicks or scratches on the Base "edge" or along the sides.

Anyone can do it for themselves and see the difference it makes. And if you have a rifle capable of shooting relatively small groups at distance(no, not 25-200yds), you will also discover that somehow the groups are now smaller. Just AMAZING and no toilet paper is involved.
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You can also go to Varmint Al's web page and see his Polishing Device that has a small "Steel Wool filled Cup" on the end of a shaft. He seems to have good luck using it, but the old Bore Brush works just fine for me.

My post was in jest.....no offence meant and if it was taken badly I apologize.

quote:

Originally posted by vapodog:
My post was in jest.....no offence meant and if it was taken badly I apologize.

None taken by me. I'm considering sending a roll of toilet paper to ALL MY LADY FRIENDS with the instructions to do the "Chest rubbing" twice daily.
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Come to think of it, if a person could rub the inside of the Case-neck with a piece of toilet paper both prior to Polishing and again after the Polishing, it would show the small burrs removed. Probably easier to use a Q-Tip though.

Lots of things like that may help the accuracy nut, benchrester and varmint hunter...but the difference is minute and not vital to a big game hunting rifle...I trim, load and shoot my big game rifles and they all shoot an inch and thats good for me...An accuracy could probably apply all his techniques and come up with a tenth or so more accuracy and omit those flyers that spread out to the inch or so mark...

Couldn't agree more Ray.
It's much better to spend the time on your shooting style. I have found that lining up on our house cow with a snap cap up the spout helps more with hunting accuracy than any time spent on bench rest techniques.

I learned how to shoot some 50 years ago and from some of the old timers who hunted to feed their family as we also did. Quite a differance to shoot to make sure when it is 40 below you have food than to run out on a hunt just for the heck of it. u already hav ea hunting load tha tshoots .375-.500 all the time but when working up a load for a new bullet weight I want it to work the best it can and hate that anything I

I learned how to shoot some 50 years ago and from some of the old timers who hunted to feed their family as we also did. Quite a differance to shoot to make sure when it is 40 below you have food than to run out on a hunt just for the heck of it. I already have a hunting load that shoots .375-.500 all the time but when working up a load for a new bullet weight I want it to work the best it can and hate that anything I did or didn't do hurts the accuracry and causes a lot more testing than necesasary. If I didn't care about accurate loads and only wanted 1-1.5 groups I would buy some factory ammo and shoot them once a year at deer season like a multitude of people do. Each to his own, and just because you like your 1.5 groups with 2 inch flyers don't jump my ass about getting a better group. Many call accuracry 2 inch groups but I call it crap! Crap to one and treasure to another! Thanks hot core you answered just what I asked for with out being a smart ass! I couldn't remember who it was. I 'll tell you one thing since I have used bench shooting techniques to prepare and shoot, my groups have went feron a destible 1" to .375 and a few .250. Thabks again hot core

Bob,
I have an old 788 22-250 and was using some brass that had been shot 5+ times. Started getting a lot of split neck and groups were getting above 1 in. I annealed all the cases I had and then used a 1/8 or 3/16 dowel rod I splt on the end with xacto saw and put small piece of 600 emery cloth in it. I chucked this in drill and would run it up inside neck and polish inside neck. It now shots .5 groups again. A little work but I felt it made the diffence in groups. I am still shooting some of the old brass and flyer are gone. Shoots sweet and I love a good neck shot. Partial FL size case also.
James

Hey Blob1, First off, you are welcome. I too enjoy "small groups" in my rifles and when I don't get them something changes. Notice I did say it "helps eliminate Fliers" to do the Polishing, but it doesn't eliminate one created by a Bullet that is slightly out of balance. There is a machine called a "Junekie"(SP?) to test for that, but it is around $600-$800 as well as I can remember.

A lot of the things I do with my Cartridges really aren't necessary for some peoples types of hunting. If all the shots I took were as close as the ones Mr. Ray takes, I'd probably not waste my time doing the Accuracy Tricks either. And I also agree with "Oldun" that practicle practice is invaluable to the actual hunt.

The apparent difference between Mr. Ray, Oldun and myself on this issue, is I have the time to spend(my time, not anyone elses) doing any Accuracy Trick I want on my Cartridges, and it dosen't bother me at all. What it does do is build "confidence" in those Loads, that they will be extremely Reliable and extremely Accurate at a very l-o-n-g distance. And they still work right fine up-close too.

I think confidence in the load and rifle combination is really important and I treat loading different rifles different just for that. I am willing to give up some accuracy on a big game rifle in order to use a more lethal bullet or full resize the case, etc if necessary, sometimes the accuracy of these loads are amazing also. I don't shoot beyond 200 yds at big game anyway, unless they were wounded and running I suppose, haven't had to yet. My dad told me not to so I don't, nothing against those that do.

My varmint rifles get the full benchrest treatment and I try to squeeze out every bit of accuracy I can manage and am perfectly willing to shoot a prairie dog with a benchrest type bullet. Always seems to put them down just fine. When I get up to coyotes I start paying close attention to putting them down again and have pelnty of loads that can do it at range easily.

I agree that practice is paramount and I like to shoot air rifles in the back yard to stay on top of myself. Alot of fun to hit a ripe peach with a 25 caliber pellet!

quote:

Originally posted by vapodog:

quote:

Originally posted by Blob1:
Some one said that if you steell wool a few rounds on the inside of the neck of cases when preparing them that it would help stop flyers.

And a woman rubbing toilet paper between her breasts will increase her breast size. We know this works because it worked so well on her tusch.

Good one Vapodog
my wife wanted to know why I had started laughing all of a sudden

quote:

but it doesn't eliminate one created by a Bullet that is slightly out of balance.

I shoot with a guy that is anal when it comes to his shooting.
He does everything except sleep with his handloads.
It had warmed up at the end of April and him,his 7 year old son and I went out to the club.
We were shooting out at 200 yards.I got bored and waited 'til he fired and was putting another cartridge in his rifle,then I shot his target.
He leaned down and looked thru his spotscope and went white.His group went from .45" to 2.50". He started sceaming at his boy not to shoot his target.I thought I was gonna piss myself. He caught me on the third target.
This brings us to out of balance bullets.He bought a .500 S&W and was at my place to load some shells.He bought some gas checked cast bullets that are about the size of your thumb.After we were done loading up 20 of them,it was late and he went home.I was turning out the lights and stopped to look at his handloads.They looked great,he has reloaded for 35 years.I got to looking at his bullets and thoght I'd have some fun.
I took five of the cast bullets and drilled a 1/16" hole off center thru the gascheck about 1/8 into the hardcast.Everything was still set up, powder measure,crimper ect. So I loaded up 5 'special' bullets and inserted them in various spots thru out his lil' box he had just loaded. I put his 5 good ones in a drawer.
He was ready to sell the revolver after 20 rounds.It shot very well but every now and then it wouldn't even punch the paper.I was ready to bust watching the reaction on his face. He would look at the revolver like it smelled bad.
I told him what I did ,but I'm not gonna tell ya what he called me.

quote:

Thought about it for awhile and wrapped some good old "0000 SteewWool" around a 22 Bore Brush, inserted the "Polishing Brush" into one of the plastic RCBS handles and gave it a few twists in the Caseneck. Slicked it right up. Easy to see the difference with an Inspection Loop.

Now you can Seat a bullet to it's normal depth, Pull it and will notice no nicks or scratches on the Base "edge" or along the sides.

Anyone can do it for themselves and see the difference it makes. And if you have a rifle capable of shooting relatively small groups at distance(no, not 25-200yds), you will also discover that somehow the groups are now smaller. Just AMAZING and no toilet paper is involved.
---

You can also go to Varmint Al's web page and see his Polishing Device that has a small "Steel Wool filled Cup" on the end of a shaft. He seems to have good luck using it, but the old Bore Brush works just fine for me.

Hot core, I use a variation of varmint al's technique. I use the lee case spinner/trimming system. After trimming and chamfering, I simply push against a pad of 0000 steel wool while the case is spinning. Amazing how it polishes the cut made by even the VLD lyman tool! The edge of the inside chamfer where it breaks into the main neck diameter can and does have a burr on it. The steel wool takes it all off!

I agree with Hotcore.
My poceadure is before I prime my rifle cases I take a correct for caliber brass brush wrap it throughly with 0000 Xtra fine SW and polish both the inside and of the case mouth. Started doing this after I noticed shavings as I seated my bullets. I also champher with a Lymen VLD tool.