Never had to do this and Im thinking one pass from the 375 to 300 H&H will work, but would it be better to do a two step, and the only step down I have is a 338 or 9,3 and may be able to do just the neck??? Am I on the right path one way or the other with the 3 options..

HELP!!!

Donnelly says, anneal case neck, F/L size in 300HH die. Square case neck, chamfer.

I've done it this way, worked fine.

Ray that's a mighty big difference.

I'd sure want to run it thru something in between.

Most of the time I've split cases it's been stretching them larger. Then annealing saves brass.

I would expect a soft case to crush first.

Make sure you use enough sizing wax and expect to lose a few.

Can't you find brass the size you need, or are you just experimenting?

George

May have too neck turn the brass after sizing.

I've made a lot of 300 H&H brass this way and it takes a few steps to get a good end result. Getting the neck reduced to the final diameter before you reform the shoulder is the best approach to not destroy cases by collapsing the shoulder.

My best results have been the following order:

1.) neck down in .358 STA die.
2.) neck down in .340 WBY die.
3.) final neck reduction on .300 wby die.
4.) reduce shoulder diameter in .300 H&H die

And then check neck thickness...

Ok, Ive got some options to try starting with annealing then resizing as per rcraig then I will address the neck trim etc..

thanks to all, and maybe I will just trade or sell the 375 brass and go back to square one plan A and pray to the red gods of Hornady to do the right thing, and run a batch..

For years I've necked up a variety of cases with no problems, but when I try to neck down I get wrinkles in the shoulder.

The last that I tried was .375 H&H down to .300 Wby. I didn't doit in small increments, and without annealing, the new shoulders had wrinkles. If I annealed first, the case neck pushed into the shoulder.

I ended up just selling the .375 H&H brass.

I've necked down HUNDREDS of brass without issue. Once in a blue moon I will wrinkle one and have to toss it.

I neck down 223 to 20 cal in one pass.

280AI to 6.5x280AI with an interim step to 270.

BUT 6.5 or 6mm to 20 cal takes 2 interim steps to get nice brass.

I outside neck turn all three of those but I'm not sure if you will have to or not but I suspect you will to make brass the same as other 300 H&H necks.

I also anneal AFTER forming and turning.

I suspect that you're taking them down so far that you'll need/want and interim step... like 338 as you said.

Zeke

Dented ("wrinkled") shoulders are simply a result of using too much lubricant. Keep the lubricant to a minimum and don't let it build up in the die to avoid dented shoulders.

By the way, dented shoulders are not The End Of The World. They'll iron out on the first firing.

He is not talking about dented shoulders from too much lube! He is talking about wrinkled shoulders where the brass is wrinkled laterally on the shoulder and beginning of the neck.

Hip

Ray, go with Donnelly's advice. I use his book frequently. The only case I ever had problems with, without using a case form die set was making 30-30 into 219 zipper. It was just too much of a reduction in one pass.

quote:

The last that I tried was .375 H&H down to .300 Wby. I didn't doit in small increments, and without annealing, the new shoulders had wrinkles. If I annealed first, the case neck pushed into the shoulder.

HELP!!, Atkinson, Forgive, I thought this one would be an easy. I normally get a call after someone has failed at every attempt.

Rather than upset the brain trust I will call you if that is OK. I had a friend that built rifles like he was running an assemble line, and then try to form cases for for his new creation.

There were times I had to tell him I had to determine if it was possible.

F. Guffey

How much brass are you looking for?

All i can get I suspect, 100 to 200 cases..

Ive necked a lot of brass up and down, the belted case full length is a totally different experience, I annealed and ran them through a full length 300 H&H die, bot past the striation at the shoulder joint by going very slow, lubed case but not the neck, they look but I don't have my gun to check, haveing some work done on the gun..

Bottom line is Im looking to buy or trade for some 300 H&H brass to simplify my life..I can trade 375 H&H brass, 220 swift brass or ammo, 300 win mag, or hard cash..

Thanks to AR I have an abundant amount of 300 H&H brass..traded my 375s for 300s and all is well..

I have an annealer that Norm gave me, plus for smaller jobs I bought a Little crow annealing tubes that you can hold my hand or in a drill and anneal one at a time as you turn or spin the case and heat with a torch. Use an all steel drill without plastic, the plastic melts..

I have about 6 of those little tubes from Little Crow---they work GREAT. I use them with a cordless drill and a propane torch. No problem with the drill melting.
Different sizes for different cases, they even made one up for me for a case they don't list---no extra charge (great to deal with)! I cut one down also for a shorter case. A couple that I don't want to cut down I put a nut (as in nut and bolt) in the bottom of the tube.
The tube not only holds the case but protects the base of the case from being annealed.

Hip

I have one for each of my calibers, other than some ofthem work for other calibers, so that gives me a complete set..at $15 each, you can't beat that..Cordless drill? good idea, do they come with varible speed?

Ray, we've been out of the 19th century for a while now!!

Yeah, just don't pull the trigger as hard!

Hip

I still win Turkeys with a controlled jerk! who needs a good trigger??

quote:

Originally posted by Atkinson:
Never had to do this and Im thinking one pass from the 375 to 300 H&H will work, but would it be better to do a two step, and the only step down I have is a 338 or 9,3 and may be able to do just the neck??? Am I on the right path one way or the other with the 3 options..

would u be interested in 300 h&h brass