can't find aluminum that is hard enough,and that would be the correct Dia. to bed guns with .
Bill

You can get these from Brownell's but, any 5/8" diameter aluminum rod will work. If you have a lathe, I've evan taken pieces of scrap aluminum that was rectangular and turned it round to 5/8" and then drilled them 5/16", cut them to length and used them like that.

Masterifleman!
couple of questions , all my guns are bedded with out pillars all show the accuracy effects of bedding
If I put the aluminum pillars in do I retain the same contact points that I now have? or with the aluminum am I basicaly renforcing that same point , other wise I don't change any positioning , or present contact points is that correct?
Thanks Bill

If you want to try something different try this:
From the floorplate area of the stock drill out the action screws the width of the floorplate area. Put the action back in the stock using inletting screws in the action and hold it in place with surgical tubing or tape. Turn it upside down and fill the holes with acraglass. Of course do not forget proper techniques for applying release agent, etc.

quote:

Originally posted by bill r:
Masterifleman!
couple of questions , all my guns are bedded with out pillars all show the accuracy effects of bedding
If I put the aluminum pillars in do I retain the same contact points that I now have? or with the aluminum am I basicaly renforcing that same point , other wise I don't change any positioning , or present contact points is that correct?
Thanks Bill

Bill,

Pillar bedding should be done before glass bedding as you probably will change the stress points if you pillar bed now. However, you can probably get away with just a light coat if your pillar height is correct.

Kory

If you glass-bedded a good, well sealed hardwood stock or a synthetic with adequate reinforcement (fiber) in the action screw area then adding pillars after the fact is useless work. The wood or glass won't compress.

If you're starting from scratch it won't help or hurt. If you're working with un-reinforced foam-filled synthetics or injection moulded it can really help.

Any metal tubing with reasonable wall thickness and ID will do the trick; it doesn't have to be aluminum and it doesn't have to be 5/8" dia. Hell, it doesn't have to round if all you have is a mortise chisel.

Clifton and Rimrock are two good examples of re-inforced synthetics that don't benefit from pillars. Probably McMillan and others but I've not cut one of them apart to see.

Nothing like hearing from people who have done it.
Thank you , I think I got good results with the glass and that is enough.
Bill
PS it snowing in Oregon

For pillar bedding I use Stainless, brass, and Chrome moly steel 3/8" outside diameter tubing in 6 foot lengths.
http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMPXNO=3006377&PMT4NO=2955235
http://www.onlinemetalsupply.com/storefrontprofiles/del...?sfid=96027&c=645163
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/3-8-Stainless-Steel-Brak...dZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V