Alright I am really getting excited about reloading. I got my RCBS kit and am ready to go. I now need only one thing for my setup to be complete the bench/desk I will be working at. I am a do-it-yourself kind of guy, one of the appeals of reloading to me, so I am going to build my own custom bench for the purpose.

Now, before I made a bunch of stupid mistakes in construction due to lack of knowledge I want to ask for the sage advise of those in the forum.

1. How big a surface do I need?
2. What features have you found most useful? (drawer space, shelf space, etc.)
3. How heavy should it be for stability sake?

And anything else you can think of that would help me.

Also any pictures would be a great help.

Thanks a lot guys, you have all really made getting into reloading a lot easier.

Anvil,

If you use the search function on here and look for "reloading room pictures" and there are a couple of old threads with pictures of peoples set up some of which are really good.

As to the type and size of the bench, that will be down to your circumstances/preferences/budget ect. I was stuck for space and my bench is only 48" long and has a set of three draws under one side. Its actually a touch low and I would prefer it to be about waist high. Mine has a single press permanently mounted and I use clamps to put out other kit as needed. I guess my set up is about as low tech as you can get but it works for me as i only reload two calibers.

If the bench needs to look presentable/tidy, I would recomend buying some of those plain wood looking kitchen units; two "single" cupboards holding up a 72" length of work top would make a good start and you could add a couple of wall mounted cupboards above it in the same style if you needed. You might pick these up second had but even "new" they need not be too expensive if you look in the sales. You would need to pick the thicker style work top, mine is about 1 1/2", but I have also reinforced entire length of the underneath forward edge (where the press mounts) with another strip of woold about 3/4" thick and about 8" deep. This is screwed and glued into place and just provides a bit of additional strength/peace of mind.

When I first started someone gave me an old office desk to use as a bench. It had a standard 1" thick MDF top and it lasted all of about 20 minutes before the press pulled out!

Regards,

Pete

I too am a hands on kind of guy, but after looking at material costs, time involved, etc. I went out and bought a Craftsman workbench from Sears that cost about the same amount as the materials would have cost me. I've used it and had it for 15 years and it has made 8 military moves with me. I would recommend a look in that direction.

just my opinion,
Graycg

For the first 20 or so years I used what ever I could cobble up. I learned from each of my efforts.
Lesson one, is I could have the Pentagon as my reloading room and things would still be tight. (My reloading shed is 12*16 it's been up and going for a month and I'm planning a second 12*16 addition.)
Lesson two, my loading bench can have the surface area of the aircraft carrier USS John Stennis and by the end of first evenings reloading there will not be a square inch of surface that does not have something on it. (My loading bench is 3*16, I cannot find a place to put anything down)
Lesson three, shelving fills up at a rate that can only be marveled at.( I'm building shelving over topp of the windows)
Lesson four, no matter how much light I put into the area everything I'm working on, is always in a shadow.(I have four two tube florescent light unit as well as track lighting with 5 150 watt spot lights)
Number six, dust and debris from the surrounding counties seems to migrate to that work space. (I don't shoot black powder, how did I acquire both ready to use and used caps? This reloading shed has only been functional for a month)
The loading bench top is made from 5/8th inch sheathing plywood on the bottom 3/4 inch particle board then 5/8th finish grade plywood on top. All of these are glued and screwed together. There are 2*4 screwed to the walls and floor every 18 inches with provisions to put two shelves under the work bench.
One thing I've found is reloading rooms are magnets for reloading junk, tons of reloading junk. Every nifty reloading gadget out there seems to show up and reproduce like rabbits.
Another thing I've learned is it's best to keep wives out of the reloading room, seems they have perverse need to clean and tidy things up. All of the required items you use each and everytime will disappear. And will only reappear after you have purchased replacements.
Jim

If you have a corner, an "L" shaped bench can be very handy. On my bench, the short end of the ell I covered with formica, that's where I do powder. The long end of the ell is not covered (2x6's), and has 2 presses, a bench mount priming tool, etc... Using a stool, it's handy to "swivel" around...

I handload 3 dozen calibers.

At home there is locked room the contains it all.
At home have a book case of powders and dies.
Each caliber has a big box of brass and bullets.
At home the presses are mounting on a 2x4 that is "C" clamped to a work bench.

To the range there is a box that transports the scale, the powder measure, the concentricity gauge, the primer pocket cleaner, the sizing wax, boxes or prepped brass, and the dies, bullets, brass, and primers needed for the caliber of the day.
At the range the 2x4 with presses is "C" clamped to a table behind the shooting bench.

My first and foremost priority for my bench was sturdiness, so I designed it like a brick sh*thouse! Legs are 4x4's with 3/4" plywood thru-bolted to the posts to provide diaphram. There are 2 leg "assemblies". These two leg assemblies are attached together with 2x6's, thru-bolted to create the table and provide a way of anchoring the top. The top is 2 layers of 3/4" playwood, glued and screwed. There is enough rigidity for the press, but would like a little more, so am contemplating another layer of plywood.

Thru-bolting, as oppesed to screwing or nailing together, affords the ability to really tighten everything down, and the compression of the two pieces against each other aids tremendously in sturdiness.

As the fellas above mentioned, there will never be enough space. Accept it, now and save some headaches! A route that I am trying right now, is that my bench was designed as a table placed in the middle of my workspace, allowing me the ability to use all four sides. With this arrangement, I currently use one side for reloading and the other is open for a place to clean guns, study targets, and other activities.

[ 06-17-2003, 18:25: Message edited by: Trapdoor ]

i load some 50 BMG and had to buy an ammo master to do it.so i mounted it on a seperate bench made up of 2" by 12"for a base,then 3/4 inch plywood over that.but where i placed the press i have 1/2 steel plate 12" by 24" on both the top and the bottom.these are bolted together through the table top.it gives the whole press all the support it needs.the legs are 4" by 4" , with triangle bracing to each leg.then all are tied together with 2" by 4" around the bottom.all is lag bolted together and can be taken apart if need be.
muskrat
freedom wasn't won with a registered gun!

My bench is 16' long and 3' deep. It built to kitchen table height and is made completly of pressure treated lumber (for weight). I made 2 rectangular frames (8'X3') out of 2X4's and i also put 2 additional 2X4 cross members in each frame. I then made the top of the bench out of 3/4" plywood and then attatched 6 4X4 legs to both of the framed-up tables. Then I screwed them together and stood the whole unit up against a cement wall in my basement. I then attatched the whole bench to the wall with 10 3" cement nails from a remington powder-actuated hammer.I then attatched 2 8' 2X4's to the wall with cement nails and attatched 2 8" 1X6's for support-free shelving. I couldent ask for a better setup, It roomy and solid as a rock.

[ 06-17-2003, 19:34: Message edited by: cmb3366 ]

Trapdoor, if yu`re thinking of adding plywood to stiffen up the top of your bench try a couple pieces of 2x12.
I put a piece of 3/4" plywood on two lenghts of 2x12, front and rear, for my top. I used 8" carraige bolts to attach the plywood and 2x12s to the framework (2x4)of the bench and and it`s worked great for the past ~15years. I use two benches and the tops are 8`x30" & 6`x30" both are set this way and you could build diesels on them without a hitch.

Thanks guys. If I could add one more question...

What is the minimumum thickness for the region where the Rockchucker is being mounted to keep it secure?

Anvil63,

If you are like most of us, there are some limitations on available space. I reload for 11 calibers and have more cases, powder and bullets than I know what to do with. I use a business type desk, 2 1/2' by 5'. That's all the room I had so it was a must do situation. I'd advise you to think modular. I made up a two shelf unit 10" by 2 1/2'. It fits on the right corner of that desk.
Actually it overhangs it slightly so I can attach it to the desk with C-clamps. They are a godsend and support my Forster beveller, case trimmer, RCBS priming unit and anything else I need. Simply mount them on pieces of wood, a bit longer for the clamps to hold them. The key is the two shelf unit I mentioned. It's re-inforced, has a Redding Turret Press on one end and a RCBS Rockchucker on the other. It sits about 8" high. My powder dispenser is mounted in the middle. When not in use, the tools go in a drawer. I did have to buy a 4 drawer office type filing cabinet to house some of my gear. It holds a lot, is lockable and fits right next to the desk. It's dimensions are about 16" wide, 5 ' high and 4' deep. The entire area is about 7' across and 3' deep. That's not bad. I clean my rifles from it also, but at an angle. I built a gun cabinet for 17 guns, and it takes up one whole wall, but is recessed. The entire room is only 9' by 8', and I love it dearly. because it's mine, all mine. You'll need many felt pads to save your surface. You can't even hear the equipment slide across the desk. Like I said, think modular, and plan well. It'll work for you I'm sure. Best wishes.

Cal - Montreal

arkypete,

Great post.

I know what you mean about accumulating "stuff".... It seems to grow at an exponential rate... a miracle, call the church!

I have the same complaint about lighting. One solution I found is to toss the cool white or warm white bulbs in your flouresents and install broad spectrum "daylight" bulbs. They cost about three times as much and you may have to special order them, but they are well worth it.

And I agree, you have to keep the Women the hell out of there. They are worse collectors that we are,(We collect good stuff they collect junk) and are always looking for someplace to store it. I used to come home and find her latest piece of "junk" stuffed in my loading room. Now it's locked and she ain't happy, but I at least I know nothing will be moved, covered, or broken unless I do it.. funny thing is, I still lose stuff vin there... Gremlins maybe?

I have built 2 reloading benches following these plans from the National Reloading Manufactures Assn. They are great benches and have held up extremely well over 25 years of reloading. I use a Rockchucker press and do a lot of case re-sizing for wildcat cartridges meaning I have put a lot of pressure on the bench top where the press is mounted.

Hope this helps even if I am late in posting on this subject.

http://www.accs.net/users/drquick/bench.html

Don't mount your presses (or any other equipment) to the bench, mount them to a 2 x 8 or doubled thickness of plywood and then clamp that to the bench when you want to use it, and take it off and store on a shelf the rest of the time. I didn't do this for my setup, and I'm regretting it. I have my powder measure mounted to the back edge of the bench, and find I really want it on the side edge. It would also really be great to be able to move/remove one of my presses to have more room to work with the other press. I plan on changing my setup soon, and also to put formica on the the bench top to make cleanup easier. My bench top is made of two thicknesses of outdoor AC 3/4" plywood, glued and screwed together. The legs are the cast iron units that Lee Valley (a wood working site) sells, held together with two sections of laminated beam and 1/2" threaded rod. Very heavy and very strong and stable; but not at all cheap.

I know it ain't the fanciest out there but it is efficient and fits in the dining room of the rental house we are in right now. I have everything I need for the ones I commonly reload right at me fingertips and everything else is in a mac toolbox right next to it. Except for my tumbler. It is out in the garage. I hope this gives you some ideas. I built it all out of leftover walnut, mohogany, oak, cherry and a little walnut and oak pywood for the tabletop and cabinet doors. Most of it is solid wood though. All the tools bolt or screw to the 3/8 steel plate on top. I drilled and tapped holes for all of them. It is only held on with 4- 2 inch lag screws in the corners. No double layer of ply wood needed here. It hasn't broken yet in 13 years and more than 50,000 rounds including 50 bmg back in my wilder days.

The link that elkslayer sent you, you don't need to buy them plans, I have them and if you really want them e-mail me and I'll e-mail them back to ya. No sense spending extra money.

I built my bench out of counter top.It's great to keep clean,a wipe and like brand new,cheap,last forever.
Matt

[ 06-19-2003, 16:11: Message edited by: Matt1911 ]

Pa.Frank
Chuckle
Once upon a time I, during the 70s, had to have a 44 Spec. Remember the Skeeter Skelton articles about the 44 Spec and it was the most accurate handgun there was? Well, I sent my model S&W #28 off for conversion.
I did my reloading using Lyman dies. Traded the handgun for a Colt Diamondback 4", bought 357 dies, put 44 dies away. Bought S&W #24, 44 special, could not find Lyman dies to save my soul, bought RCBS dies. Shot the #24 religiously for year could not hit bull in the butt at 2 yards with handgun. Put handgun and dies away, decided I needed to do pentenance, took up Bullseye. Shot nothing but 45acp. 38 spec. and 22RF for number of years, got fairly good.
Went back to mod.#24, could not find Lyman, RCBS dies, bought Redding dies. Got to where I could hit the hill side two out three shots with mod.24. By the way this mod. 24 is incrediably accurate for you, my shooting buddies, my ex-wives, it's just me it hates. Put Mod 24 away, got mod 25 back from gunsmith, went looking for 45 Colt dies found two more sets of 44 dies, along with two sets of 45 Colt dies. That's another story.
Jim

I built this a couple of months ago, it works mighty fine. I have the plans if you decide that you want to build it.

My bench is a 2X4 with 5 presses and it attaches with "C" clamps to benches, tables, and truck bumpers.




I just moved the little green press to get it closer the balance point. It makes a better handle now. It is about 25 pounds. I am 52 and can lift 100 pounds now, but I am always planning for when I get old.

[ 06-20-2003, 08:40: Message edited by: Clark ]

I took a furrow disc, 02 02" couplings, a 36" piece of 02" pipe, and a 12X24" piece of 1/4" plate, welded the couplings to the disc and the plate, and screwed them together, and mounted the Rockchucker and the Dillon to the plate.

I can move it out of the way when I need to use the bench for something besides reloading (like cleaning)

Far Right,

That is a very nice looking bench you have there. Could you tell me the overall size?? At some point i would like to upgrade my basic set up and that looks as if it would fit the bill,

Regards,

Pete

I went with the Craftsman Bench idea as well. By the time I figured out material costs etc, it was just easier. Above it I use Old Kitchen Cabinets. It's a nice clean look, and the bench is strong.

Frank D

The bench is 42 3/4 inches high, by 72 inches long by 32 inches wide. The cabinet is 24 inches high by 72 inches long and 12 inched deep. Very strong and very stout. If you want the plans I can e-mail them to you.

Anvil 63,
My reloading bench is a Sears craftsman tool bench which I have been loading on for about 10 years with no problem at all. With five draws underneath the weight keeps it on the ground without moving around. For different presses they are mounted on 3/4 thick, six by nine inch, plywood and is bolted to the benchtop with 3/8-16 bolts this gives quick interchangablility between presses without a cluter of presses or holes in the bechtop. Shelves mounted of the wall behind gives storage for dies and all shorts of other stuff for reloading.
Gravel

Before you decide on a top, take a trip to Home Depot or Lowes or similar store - check out the premade formica countertops - they come in various lengths/colors at reasonable prices.

I like the lighter color formica for many reasons:
1. It's easy to clean,
2. Powder, dust, etc. doesn't get trapped in cracks,
3. It's easy to see small parts on,
4. The finish is plenty tough enough for reloading/cleaning - unless you do a lot of pounding and filing, it should do fine.

You will likely need to beef up the underside if you mount a press to the edge.

I started on an old desk that I reinforced by gluing and scewing 3/4" plywood to the top. Over the years the rest of the desk had to be beefed up with various nails, screws, glue and clamps to keep it together. Then I moved to a garage with a work bench made of 4x4 legs with 2 x 10 top and a sheet of plywood on top to smooth it out. Added on my gun room a couple years ago and went first class. Got two 36" kitchen base cabinets, placed them with a 32" gap between them. Then I took a piece of moulded counter top and glued and screwed 3/4 inch plywood to the back and mounted it on top of the base cabinets with a little extra fastening and strengthening. Then I put a piece of 3/16" steel on top and botoom where my press sits. This set up is plenty sturdy and gives me lots of storage in the base cabinets, along with the two wall cabinets I hung above the bench on either side of a window that is centered above the bench. Made a nice set up, real clean looking.

[ 06-21-2003, 08:22: Message edited by: klsm54 ]