I'm an old timer reloader with all Lyman equipment. I passed numerous handguns and rifles along to my son and grandson. Now I want to reload .357 Magnum and .38 Smith & Wesson special. I need the dies, bullets, primers and powder.

Spoke to Lyman directly who suggested calling some of their distributors which I did. First I need to decide on a 3 die or a 4 die set with roll or taper crimp. Although I would like to stay with Lyman, Lee has some really attractive prices on dies. Distributors I sspoke to do not have Lyman dies in stock.

Powder is a major problem. No-one has any. BIG shortage. I'm looking at Alliant Bullseye which is in my load data for both. But I'll consider other.

Bullets undecided as yet. I want CHEAP. This is essentially punching holes in paper while teaching my Grandson to reload. I'm not fond of lead bullets. Maybe semi jacketed, maybe factory seconds?

Primers are not a problem, small pistol.

I'll appreciate any input about which dies and how many, 3 or 4. Roll or taper crimp. Which powder for both cartridges. Which bullets.

Incidentally I'm getting some horrendous price quotes from some mail order distributors for Haz Mat fees !! What's the deal on this ?

Welcome to the accurate reloading forum. I have loaded for these two cartridges for years and prefer hard cast 158 grain semi-wadcutters (sized to .358") for cheap shooting. Granted you will get some barrel leading but that is easy to remove with a brass scrubby, such as Chore Girl, from any super market. For 357 my go to load is 10 grains of Alliant BlueDot and for the 38Spec. I prefer Winchester 231 at 4.0 grains. This 38 load is more accurate than most shooters can shoot out of my revolver and the recoil is very easy.

As far as dies I like RCBS carbide dies for handgun loads but own others which work well also, and for revolver cartridges I go with a roll crimp. I think anything with the Lee name on it is junk, and yes I have used some of these. You will need an expander die to flair case mouths to load lead bullets in order to avoid bullet shaving.

I have loaded many, many thousands of .38 / .357’s over the years. It is by far one of the easiest rounds to reload for as there is so much data and components available for them. Like Lucky I too prefer a 158g LSWC. They are economical, good performers and accurate and a well-cast “boolet” should not give you any issues. Try the cast “boolets” made by Meister, Bootheel, and Laser Cast etc. The coated bullets from Gateway or Precision Bullets are excellent as are the copper plated /washed bullets from Rainer or Berry’s.

As for dies, for straight walled rimmed cartridges like the .38 / .357 I prefer a rolled crimp. Saving the taper crimp die for rimless cases that head space on the case mouth like the 9mm, .40 S&W etc. With .38 target loads you will find you need very little crimp at all. In fact too much will over work your case mouths causing splits early on.

Dies - IMO Get the brand you have the most confidence in. I have had excellent results with all of them (including Lee). My .38’s are assembled on an old set of Pacific Durachrome dies that still turn out quality rounds.

As for powder choices, I am a big fan of AA #5 for its’ versatility, metering and cleanliness; good luck finding some. Fortunately many of the shotgun powders cross over and have application too so go with what you can find and stick with loads from reputable published sources.

quote:

Powder is a major problem. No-one has any. BIG shortage. I'm looking at Alliant Bullseye which is in my load data for both. But I'll consider other.

You may have a wait to get Bullseye. If you're in a rush, there are other powders that may be available that will do the same thing.

AFA bullets go, for your uses, I'd recommend Speer 148 gr WC. Right now Midway has a couple of various lead 158 grainers for 7 to 9 cents/bullet. I didn't figure them but for jacketed or copper it will likely be at least a nickel more per bullet. Leading with the 148 gr WC is minimal to say the least and they are highly accurate out to 50 yards while using very little powder per shot.

If you must have non-lead and accuracy is not a real consideration, a lot of shooters use Rainier bullets, but as I said, they will be about a nickel more per shot.

For the .357 Mag my Marlin likes 158 grain JSP bullets over 18.6 grains Alliant 300-MP, and CCI small pistol primer.

14.3g of 2400 w/158g hollow point for my .357. This is a good thumper load.

I use HS-6 for .38 sp (same 158g bullet)for casual shooting.

Dies are Lee. Bullets are Rainier.

Just my preferences. Results vary.....

Thank you all responders. Very valuable information. Much appreciated.

The clinker here is the powder. I made the rounds, to the big guys and small suppliers, and it seems there isn't any anywhere presently.

There are huge backorders but no dates available. I'm not in a rush so I will begin procuring and wait until some comes available.

I think I will go high end on this and spend a few bucks for the best as a model for my Grandson. Quality and safety along with pride and satisfaction.

Unique would be a choice as well if you find that. I was able to stock back up on it just a little while ago. It works well in many pistol cartridges.

quote:

Originally posted by wetibbe:
Thank you all responders. Very valuable information. Much appreciated.

The clinker here is the powder. I made the rounds, to the big guys and small suppliers, and it seems there isn't any anywhere presently.

There are huge backorders but no dates available. I'm not in a rush so I will begin procuring and wait until some comes available.

I think I will go high end on this and spend a few bucks for the best as a model for my Grandson. Quality and safety along with pride and satisfaction.

It would be helpful if you added your location to your profile. Often folks here have local /regional sources they might be able to suggest.

And I like your thought process in going toward the high end - just put safety up front- I'm sure you'll have a protege' you'll be proud of..

quote:

Originally posted by wetibbe:
Thank you all responders. Very valuable information. Much appreciated.

The clinker here is the powder. I made the rounds, to the big guys and small suppliers, and it seems there isn't any anywhere presently.

There are huge backorders but no dates available. I'm not in a rush so I will begin procuring and wait until some comes available.

I think I will go high end on this and spend a few bucks for the best as a model for my Grandson. Quality and safety along with pride and satisfaction.

What state are you located in one of the members here might have some powder for you if you live close enough to them shipping is a pain

If you will be using a powder measure you will want to avoid 'flake' style powders like Unique and Red Dot; they do not flow well through said measure. Best be seeking 'ball' style powders such as Winchester 231 or Accurate Arms #2 which meter much more smoothly and accurately.

quote:

If you will be using a powder measure you will want to avoid 'flake' style powders like Unique and Red Dot; they do not flow well through said measure.

Really I guess I well have to take back the 50,to 60 or more thousands rounds of pistol ammo I have loaded with unique, red dot, green dot, herco ect.

Or the many 10000s of rounds of shotgun ammo using the same powders. Most of then loaded on progressive presses and using power measures.

The only Flake powder that has given me trouble was 800X large flakes I could not get it to throw a consistent charge for nothing. It seemed like the best powder for the 10mm at the time but I stopped using it, I am not into weighing pistol charges.

The dot powders have been the go to powders for shotgun and pistol reloading for many decades haven't heard any body complain about them not flowing before . In my 45 plus years if reloading they are my preferred powders to go too.

I have loaded the 357 Magnum for years, and have settled on Unique for my go-to powder. It is bulky enough to quickly show a double or low charge.I started with the Lee hammer reloader, quickly graduated to Lyman dies, and just as rapidly changed to RCBS Carbide dies, where I have stayed. IMO, better quality control and great customer service. I use Universal, 2400, and, of course Unique exclusively,

5.5gr. Unique behind a 158gr. SWC gives 860 chronoed fps from my 4" revolver. I roll crimp lead or cannelured bullets. I use an old Hornady Pistol measure with inserts, which throws very accurate loads with flake powders.

An RCBS tech told me that what you see on factory cartridges is really an overcrimp, past what was said to be a "heavy" crimp in the Lyman Manual. He suggested turning the crimp die 1/8 turn past contact with a sized case mouth for a light crimp, and 1/4 turn for a heavy crimp. I was adjusting my crimp die waaaay too much! For plated bullets with no cannelure, I chamfer the inside of the case lightly, then use my Dillon crimp die to remove the case mouth flare and move the mouth in against the plating to remove any chance of a snag. That way, it doesn't cut the plating. I asked a fellow from Berry's if their old stlyle HP bullets would expand, and he said; "If you hit a steel beam!" They have a new line that will expand, I hear. Rainier bullets have a reputation for expanding well, but I don't know that from personal experience.

I won't ship but if you are close to central Oklahoma I've got an extra unopened pound of Bullseye that I'll sell you for what I have in it.

Pdogshooter: I also have been reloading for handguns for many years. I gave 'flake' powders the boot decades ago. Give 'ball' powder a go; meters like sand through a powder measure (as opposed to frisbees).

quote:

The only Flake powder that has given me trouble was 800X large flakes I could not get it to throw a consistent charge for nothing. It seemed like the best powder for the 10mm at the time but I stopped using it, I am not into weighing pistol charges.

Exactly.....IMR-800X is so course that it bridges in my powder measure and becomes unusable even for 20 Ga shotgun loads. I've not had a problem with other flake powders but will also agree that ball powders meter the best.

With today's inconsistant powder availability, one must learn to use what's available and Hodgdon's website has quite a few listings for several different powders.

As to dies, I use a Hornady three die set but anyone's dies work well with the .357/.38 special loads. You can load both .38 special and .357 Mag with a set of dies for the .38 special but not with the .357 die set. A .357 die set will load only the .357 as it won't crimp the shorter case.

I prefer the lighter bullets for my .357 and 125 grains makes for great target practice. One can use either Hornady XTP jacketed bullets or several companies make excellent cast bullets.....I've been using meister and try to confine myself to 1,000 FPS or so.....I've been using titegroup even though I'm of the opinion that one should always use a powder that fills more than half the case to prevent any possibility of a double charge.

One can also set a gas check on cast bullets if he wants to drive them faster but I haven't done that as I prefer to use jacketed bullets like Hornady's XTP.....Speer's gold dot is also a superb bullet but others make fine jacketed bullets too.

If you haven't visited Hodgdon's website for loading data on the .38 special or the .357 Magnum I strongly suggest you do so as they list a lot of powders that make fine reloads for said cartridges.

all i load is .38 spl-.357 magnum....... use homecast 150 gr swc bullets sized to .358..... my favorite load is 6.2 grs. of bullseye with said bullet in .357 magnum.... it chonographs right at 1230 fps and is very consistant shot to shot variance is usually less that 20 fps... i get this with an old lee speed die set and an old bair heavy single stage press..... both are quite old (like me)................. my load for .38 spl is 3-3.2 grs of bullseye with the same homecast bullet..... the lyman mold is #358477 i believe.........

a person who breaks into my house is not an undocumented visitor........... (charles payne)..............................

I have used a lot of ball powders for the price I find the dot powers to be more economical then ball powders.

I see not reason to use them in my handgun loads I use hem a lot in my rifle loads

If you can't find Bullseye or W231 almost any of the shotgun powders will work. If you want cheap then go with cast lead bullets, either diy or commercial cast. If you are teaching someone to shoot I would keep it light and stay away from 2400/H110 etc. You don't need the abuse just for practice. I would get a carbide die set for sure.
C.G.B.