I'm getting ready to build a reloading bench. My question is whether or not a 3/4 inch top will be thick enough to mount the RCBS Rock Chucker press on? I'm looking at 3/4 inch laminate wood or the 3/4 inch with the birch look to it from Home Depot. The top will be 24x48 and will have one support piece under the top running the 48" length. So the top will be supported but does the press create too much torque for 3/4 inch wood. What do you folks think? I'm just starting to reload and don't want to have to do the bench twice.

I would recomend that you use two layers of 3/4 inch top. Just cut the same size and glue together. You will be much more satisfied with the stability.

I know mine's overkill (if that's possible), but I made my top with 2X10's, then a 5/8" plywood top (approx. 30" x 48"). My frame is welded 1 1/2" square metal tubing. It has a shelf underneath and another about 18" above the top.

I agree with the post above - use at least 2 layers of 3/4".

I think you'll be really happy with this bench here. It's really solid, stable and inexpensive to build. There was a recent discussion on another forum and the fella built one of this, turned out really nice:

http://www.eaa1000.av.org/technicl/worktabl/tablefig.htm

And here are the building instructions:

http://www.eaa1000.av.org/technicl/worktabl/worktabl.htm

Hope this helps,

Regards,

Dave

quote:

Originally posted by teesh:
I'm getting ready to build a reloading bench. My question is whether or not a 3/4 inch top will be thick enough to mount the RCBS Rock Chucker press on? I'm looking at 3/4 inch laminate wood or the 3/4 inch with the birch look to it from Home Depot. The top will be 24x48 and will have one support piece under the top running the 48" length. So the top will be supported but does the press create too much torque for 3/4 inch wood. What do you folks think? I'm just starting to reload and don't want to have to do the bench twice.

Teesh

For years before I made a large bench mine was the same size as you are contemplating. It had one 2 x 4 support that ran down the back and front of the bench and four 2 x 4 cross supports. The top was screwed to all the supports. I leveled the holes and glued Formica to the top and sides. Two legs on the front of the bench and the back was fastened to the wall. Worked great never flexed. Have a Rock Chucker just like you’re going to using.

I built my bench from National reloaders plans and deviated from them inthis way I used Melmanine particle board in 3/4 in thickness for the top but doubled the thickness to give me 1 1/2 inch total, I also used liquid nails to bond the two. makes a good solid work surface and will no oilcan on you like sone will in time, also no need for a strong back under the table, a simple frame bolted down with flat head lag bolts of 1/4 or 5/16 inch in each corner and one in the midle of the long side will be really strong, especially if you add a coat of liquid nails. With good 4 X 4 leggs would hold up a house.

Mine is a modified version of the one in the A-Square manual. I have 8' 2x10s front and rear with a 30"x 8' sheet of 3/4" plywood capping them. The legs are doubled 2x4s, you could drop a engine on it and never see it budge. A second 6' bench serves as a cleaning and work station.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d149/1Savage/100_0549.jpg

quote:

Originally posted by Rugerrat:
I would recomend that you use two layers of 3/4 inch top. Just cut the same size and glue together. You will be much more satisfied with the stability.

Yup. I agree here.

Ol'Joe,

Do you sit down when you use your Co-Ax?? My bench happens to be a stand-up proposition, but I have always wondered how practical it would be to sit down while using a Co-Ax, due to its high handle position??



- mike

quote:

Ol'Joe,

Do you sit down when you use your Co-Ax?? My bench happens to be a stand-up proposition, but I have always wondered how practical it would be to sit down while using a Co-Ax, due to its high handle position??

Mike I stand for the Co-Ax, Lyman and a RCBS jr that`s shelved under the bench in the pic. I built the bench more for standing and the handle of the Co-Ax is at face height when sitting, too awkward. Plus I tend to stand off to the side more when useing it then with the other two due to the handles dead center position. The Lyman & RCBS work OK sitting but habit has me standing. I use the stool to prep brass, primeing cases, note keep, ect. The stool acually is used more with a second bench in the center of the room of the same height, I clean rifles and use for general household repair tasks.

quote:

Originally posted by TXRam:
I know mine's overkill (if that's possible), but I made my top with 2X10's, then a 5/8" plywood top (approx. 30" x 48"). My frame is welded 1 1/2" square metal tubing. It has a shelf underneath and another about 18" above the top.

I agree with the post above - use at least 2 layers of 3/4".

Yep, mine has two layers of 3/4" ply. I also glued some remnant vinyl flooring to the top.
Easy to clean and virtually non-marring.

Thanks Ol'Joe!
- mike

teesh, don't really know what you're looking for as a finished product, but it might be worth checking these tops out: Maple Tops

I used them on the benches in my shop and really like them, they looked so good, the only issue I had was that I was reluctant to drill holes in them to mount my gear, especially the big holes for my vices!

quote:

Originally posted by Fish30114:
I used them on the benches in my shop and really like them, they looked so good, the only issue I had was that I was reluctant to drill holes in them to mount my gear, especially the big holes for my vices!

I gave up all of my vices except shooting.