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one of us |
I'm new to reloading so I can't always tell fact from fiction. One item of interest to me is Green788s OCW theory. The theory sounds very reasonable to me but another member, Hot Core, claimed it was dangerous for beginning reloaders but didn't give specifics as to why. Is this method truly dangerous or is someone just thowing stones? If so, how??? | ||
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one of us |
I can't see OCW is any more or less dangerous than any other method. Green (dan) does tend to favour pretty hot loadings. But he offers straight forward structured methodical approach to finding them. Some die-hards seem to resent people becoming followers, but we're a growing band! | |||
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one of us |
quote:Well it does seem to encourage a reloader to break one rule which is that one should fire at least 3 shots at a given charge weight checking for pressure signs before proceeding to an increment higher if advisable. I don't think one should underestimate the effect of fouling and chamber temperature on pressures. For this reason developing loads which are safe under the clinical conditions of accuracy testing can lull hunters into a false sense of security. For this reason I disagree with allowing the barrel to cool completely between shots. I would much rather shoot 3 shots at a given charge weight in a couple or three minutes. That way you are simulating real pressure conditions and are less likely to get a surprise when the load moves into the real hunting world. An experienced reloader will know to be cautious at such a point a novice might not. | |||
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one of us |
1894, You do fire 3 shots of a given charge, then move on to the next level. That is how the round robin works. In the Audette method, you only fire 1 round of each charge then move on as you say. Nebraska, The method is no more dangerous than any other method of reloading. You reduce the load 7 to 10% to start with, then stop when you see pressure signs or reach book value. The best thing to do is find the post that Hotcore has mentioned and read it for yourself so you don't get a biased oppinion from one person who may/may not understand the technique. Then at least, you can decide for yourself if it is for you, or if you want to use a different method. Turok | |||
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<eldeguello> |
One caution I cannot accept is the "NEVER EXCEED THE MAXIMUM LOAD SHOWN IN THE RELOADING MANUAL!!" The reason I question this is that there is often a several-grain difference in "Max" loads for the same bullet in different manuals, and ALL RIFLES are individuals. YOU MAY FIND that maximum in your rifle is significantly BELOW what a given reloading book says, OR, you may find that the max load in your particular rifle will be several grains above what the manual says!! Powders can sometimes vary quite a little between different lots of the same kind of powder. This can change things. And, some manuals only give bullet weights, not brands and designs. For example, the Barnes X bullet MAY (but not necessarily) require a lighter charge to reach maximum allowable pressures than a Sierra of the same weight requires!! This all means that when you change ANYTHING, gun, brand of case, bullet, primer, or buy a new can of powder, you should work up your load all over again, no matter how it performed before you made the change, AND REGARDLESS OF WHAT SOME RELOADING MANUAL SAYS IS A MAXIMUM LOAD!! | ||
<BigBob> |
Nebraska, First off, I guess I don't really understand Dan's OCW. I do think that firing one shot will give you an idea as to pressure levels but that is not enough information for my needs. A second concern is the weight increments between loads. Over time The method I've found that works best for me is somewhat different. I like too study several different manuals for the suggested range of charges. I like to select at least the two or three powders that produce the highest velocities in a barrel near the same length as my rifle. I've found the powders that give the highest velocities is usually the most efficient in that cartridge. I pick a load just over book minimum as the starting point and go to one grain more than the manual max. I then load three rounds at the starting point and go up in half grain increments. All test loads are shot from a bench rest at 100 yard targets. I shoot for the smallest possible group. Each load is checked for pressure indications. All loads are fired over a chronograph. I look for the smallest group with the smallest velocity spread. If I have two loads that give the same size group and the smallest velocity spread, I select the load with the highest velocity. This is the only time velocity enters into the selection. Once I get pressure signs I stop and back up one grain. Middle of the book or high book makes no difference. What my rifle shows as max is the final word. Once I have selected the best three or four loads I duplicate those loads with five rounds, and do some more test firing. This method has never failed to result in good loads. I'll admit this is not the cheapest method in the world, but it gives me what I want in the way of a load. One thing that never cease to amaze me, is how much difference a half a grain of powder can make. Good luck. | ||
one of us |
Something that I've found helpful in selecting OCW's is to call the bullet manufacturers such as RCBS, Sierra, Hornady and Nosler. They all have 1-800 numbers and very helpful technical service people glad to provide charge weight ranges and any other help you might need. If you can't find what you are looking for in the manuals, give them a call. I gave up trying to figure out which powder charges are safe maximums and started calling the experts. It saves a lot of time and gives me a better feeling when working up a load. They want you to buy and use their components and will even tell you what types of rifles they used in testing. Takes some of the guesswork out of load development. I don't think there's a reloading manual out there yet that covers all bullet weights/designs and all powder weight ranges. If there is, I'd like to see it.BLR7 | |||
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