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Picture of woodseye
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Bear with me as I just took up reloading and am trying to wade thru the BS to arrive at some basic procedures.I am playing with bullet distance from the lands as well as case prep and powder charges.I can see where length trimming is important but is neck turning equally important?I am more of an accuracy fan than velocity,and want loads that shoot 1/4"-1/2" in guns that are capable of this level of accuracy(bedded,triggers light,floated barrels,bench rest and sandbags)What in your opinions are the important steps to follow and what are just wasted motion?I asked a question about weighing brass and wonder about flash hole uniforming,primer pocket cleaning,weighing to 1/10 grain,different make brass,seating the bullet at different depths,neck sizing,and primer type.Any help or suggestions will be appreciated,so far I've gone from 1" groups with factory ammo to .375 groups with handloads on my savage 12bvss rifle.

I have an RCBS rockchucker supreme press with Lyman trimmer and neck turner,a Cabelas electronic scale and calipers,Hornady custom dies,plenty of load books,and Lyman case prep and uniforming tools,along with an RCBS hand priming tool,and of course funnel/case block/and trickler.Just looking for good advice and accuracy tips.......Thanks.
 
Posts: 672 | Location: Northern Border Country | Registered: 15 March 2003Reply With Quote
<eldeguello>
posted
Neck turning is important if you are a benchrest shooter or varmint hunter trying to get all bullets to go through the same hole. It is not important for shooting big game. It is also sometimes necessary to reduce neck wall thickness if you are necking a cartridge down considerably, like a .308 to a .243.

I have been reloading since 1954, and have neck turning tools that I have only used once or twice in that period of time. [Wink]

Judging by the groups you are getting, you are evidently doing everything right! Keep it up!!
[Big Grin]

[ 07-22-2003, 15:31: Message edited by: eldeguello ]
 
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You are obviously a good shot.
I have been reloading for longer than I care to remember.I use std dies and use hunting scopes.
The best groups with OK rifles were at the best 1/4 MOA and the worst 1/2 MOA.(I have had larger groups with problems like bedding or a shagged barrel)
I have never necked turned a case.
I do all the other case prep.
The best tip I have had re distance from the lands was from a Sinclair Int manual,which was .22 10thou,243 5thou and larger touching.
Also throw away the clip on the shellholder and have it either floating or with an O ring.
Apparently this aids case alignment.
Who knows but it works for me.
I dont know but assume that to go less than 1/4 MOA you would have to use benchrest scopes and dies.
Keep the lead flying.
Rob T.

[ 07-23-2003, 04:17: Message edited by: Rob T ]
 
Posts: 64 | Location: Merseyside,England | Registered: 28 May 2003Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by woodseye:
Bear with me as I just took up reloading and am trying to wade thru the BS to arrive at some basic procedures.I am playing with bullet distance from the lands as well as case prep and powder charges.I can see where length trimming is important but is neck turning equally important?I am more of an accuracy fan than velocity,and want loads that shoot 1/4"-1/2" in guns that are capable of this level of accuracy(bedded,triggers light,floated barrels,bench rest and sandbags)What in your opinions are the important steps to follow and what are just wasted motion?I asked a question about weighing brass and wonder about flash hole uniforming,primer pocket cleaning,weighing to 1/10 grain,different make brass,seating the bullet at different depths,neck sizing,and primer type.Any help or suggestions will be appreciated,so far I've gone from 1" groups with factory ammo to .375 groups with handloads on my savage 12bvss rifle.

I have an RCBS rockchucker supreme press with Lyman trimmer and neck turner,a Cabelas electronic scale and calipers,Hornady custom dies,plenty of load books,and Lyman case prep and uniforming tools,along with an RCBS hand priming tool,and of course funnel/case block/and trickler.Just looking for good advice and accuracy tips.......Thanks.

As the others state the neck turning is a final last bit of accuracy effort for many/most guns with factory chambers...I prefer to sort the brass by neck/body wall thickness and weight and avoid turning for normal chambers....then good straight sizing dies and a consistant repeatable seating die that seats the bullets to the "sweet spot" length seems to make the most difference in good accuracy loads.....with good brass and fireformed to the chamber then min. sizing to keep the brass fitting the chamber the bullet jump and concentricity of the loaded ammo is most important for small groups if the rifle,scope and setup will shoot small groups...enjoy the chase...good luck and good shooting!!
 
Posts: 687 | Location: Jackson/Tenn/Madison | Registered: 07 March 2001Reply With Quote
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Sounds like you have done a lot to get your accuracy down to where you are now. Here are a couple of ideas that have helped me some. They may not work for you. Would like the experts to comment on these as I need to learn also.

As mentioned earlier, sorting brass by weight seems to help. Per the Sierra experts, cases that differ by more than 1 gr. will have different volumes and burn powder differently. I have seen this work for me.

Am currently using a full length die set back from the press ram by about .050. (I use a .050 washer to set up the die.) This "modified full length sizing" provides enough neck resizing to hold the bullet while providing a neck ring to support the case better in the chamber.

Neck turning has not been necessary. Also found that primer pockets do not need to be uniformed unless they start changing with firing. However, if one is uniformed, all must be uniformed. I do deburr the flash hole.

Done with caution, I have been setting the bullets about .005 into the lands as I have a big chamber. The extra force against the bolt face seems to help fire-form the brass better.

Keep the bullet base away from the "donut" area of the case (junction of neck and shoulder). This area adversely affects neck tentsion and drastically affected my accuracy.

Just came back from the range trying the above ideas on my Rem 700P (.223). Using 23.5 and 23.8 gr. H322 under Sierra 53 gr HP MK, was able to get groups of 3/16" and 5/16" for 3 shots at 100 yds. Bullet seated .005 into lands. I have seen similar results for 5 shot groups and H322. Finding the sweet spot is critical.

Comments would be appreciated.
Ron
 
Posts: 85 | Location: Charleston, WV USA | Registered: 11 May 2003Reply With Quote
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Woodseye,

Most of your questions have been pretty well answered by those comenting above.

There is one point not made yet though that should be tossed onto the table. That is, neck turning CAN BE COUNTER-PRODUCTIVE in a standard chamber. The best use of neck turning is for a custom chamber that has an undersize neck. By turning the neck for the undersize chamber, you can get the exact amount of clearance desired between the bullet and the case neck so the bullet is kept straight as it leaves the case and goes into the rifling. This of course is the optimum condition for accuracy.

HOWEVER, if you have a standard chamber neck and you choose to turn the brass necks, you will be allowing more clearance between the bullet and the brass, which will leave the bullet less well supported and able to cock partly sideways as it enters the rifling. This can be detrimental to accuracy mostly because no two bullets are likely to do the exact same thing.

It sounds like you are pretty well tuned in for a new handloader though, and are getting the right kind of results. Keep it going!

Don Shearer
 
Posts: 223 | Location: Centennial, CO USA | Registered: 14 March 2002Reply With Quote
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