Your other poster seems correct, not sure he got all your
questions though, so I'll have a go to.
I have got good accuracy without mucking around with
flash holes, as long as they "look" OK.
Starting with new cases, i've never needed to tumble,
and vibrators are for (cencored).
Any doubts on whether to FLS or not is easly solved by
running fired cases thru the rifle and sort into batches.
Or FLS the lot every time BUT too deep into the die (cept
Lee's) and you may get too much headspace. So set the
die up a couple of turns from the holder, and keep trying
the case in your rifle until you just get it in with no
excess pressure. It is IMPORTANT not to go any further
as the case will stretch on fireing every time and will
shortly fail just above the solid base area. A bright
ring may show impending cracks. "They" reckon you can
insert a sharp bent wire down the case as the crack starts
inside. IF worried and in doubt, cut the worse looking one
open and inspect.
For any you want to just neck size, you should be able to
see the sqweeze mark on the necks, if partly done.
Some say to size only about 1/4 to 1/3 down to lessen the
variation of bullet pull, and maybe line up the case neck
with the chamber. Prob. not a good idea for auto loaders
where stiffness may be needed. And maybe for big kickers
even. So then just watch the squeese line as you adjust
the die down to near the shoulder. I think most dies will
not let you go too far. Some graphite or such may help
see the sized area. As far as I know the amount of neck
sizing is your choice. If the case won't go in your chamber
you have obviously pushed the sholder down and out.
Ie always check any time you change your adjustments.
So when your cases start spliting above the base or necks
or the primers get too loose from too much pressure,
there done for. May be 3 goes for overloaded to 10,20,30
whatever for light loads.
PS I'm still learning and I'm wondering just how loose
is too loose for primers. Some I've loaded went in
without any "feel" and went off OK. None have fallen out
yet though.
John L.

And beware of free advice. And don't get conned into neck
turning unless you have a match chamber.
Where is Stonecreek when you need him ??

I've been shooting for quite a while but I am relatively new at reloading(couple of years). After reading many threads, I am a little amazed at what some of you guys do to prep your cases. Just to let you know I have a variety of calibers that I reload but they will all be going into the same gun(all brass reloaded will be fired from the same gun it was originally shot from). The cartridge I will reload the most is a .300 RUM if that makes any difference. How important is it to deburr the flash hole? To tumble the cases? Do I need to FL size or is just a neck size o.k.(considering rounds will be going into the same chamber)? How do I gauge how far to set the sizing die when doing just a neck size or a FL? How many times can I reload the brass? In the past I have always just neck sized(set the die where the case doesn't fully insert, no exact measurement), case trimmed, removed the primer and put in a new one? Is this sufficent, or am I cheating myself of accuracy? I know this could take a while to answer so I would really appreciate any help or pointers you could give me.

I think that deburring the flash holeis not a big deal. It won't hurt but I don't see it as a significant thing. I 've been reloadinf for a few years and it has only been this year that I started deburring the flash hole. I haven't seen any difference. It may be something that a competitive bench shooter might be able to tell a diiferenc with.

Tumbling the cases is just to clean them. Dirty cases could scratch your reloading dies. When they start to get dingey looking I tumble mine just to make them look better. Nearly all my cases are ejected into my hand or on a bench so they don't get dirty. If someone gives me some brass I will always tumble it before I reload it.

Neck sizing is just fine, however, often they will reach a point after a few neck sizings where you will notice the bolt becomes a little harder to close. This is an indication that it's time to full length size to bump the shoulder back. Rather than fooling around and trying to reset your full length sizing die for neck sizing and then back and forth to full length sizing, buy a neck sizing die. They are not very expensive. I like the Lee Collet neck sizing dies.

As far as number of times you can reload, it varies by caliber and how hot the loads are. It will also vary based on how tight your gun's chamber is. Before each reload, during case preparation inspect each case and cull out any brass that has hairline fractures or other signs of fatigue.

For best results I would follow the written directions that come with your reloading dies as far as setting them up.

What you are doing sounds basically sound, however repeatable accuracy needs repeatability in reloading techniques. You should trim the brass to the same dimension each time, lube the case before full length sizing, seat the bullet to the same depth each time. Weigh the powder charge for each bullet. Clean out the primer pocket before you insert the new primer. Bevel the case mouth after trimming. All of these steps result in consistant reloads which will result in repeatable accuracy.

If your just using your ammo for hunting and aren't interested in the tightest groups you can get with each rifle, maybe what you are doing is good enough.