I need to reload for a Savage 99 in 300 Savage. I made cases out of LC match brass about 10 years ago and fired cases are .006 longer (measured at the datum line) than the the unfired cases which I made with SB die set to touch shellholder. This is is my first time reloading this brass since I formed it and I understand that oversizing 300 Savage results in really short case life because of the steep shoulder angle but on the other side of the coin the 99 doesn't have any camming action and I want fuss-free loading (this is going to be a hunting round). For bolt guns I usually set up for .002 headspace, but I'm wondering if this is "right" for a 99.

If anyone has experience with this rifle/cartridge combination I'm wondering how far you're setting back the shoulder?

Follow your instincts; they have to chamber freely, but not too freely.

I like to size my brass just enough that it feeds easily, as dpcd also said. My preferred way is to take a case that was fired in that rifle that just chambers easily. Measure it with a Hornady headspacing tool, and size to the same length, or possibly up to 0.002" less. Lock the die in place so it will stay on that length. If cases get hard to chamber after a few firings, set the die back another 0.001 to 0.002". You can also use a case that just fits and smoke the neck and shoulder with a match or candle. Adjust the die until it just touches the shoulder. If that is not quite enough, adjust the die down slowly and keep checking to see if it will chamber. If all your cases are too long to chamber easily, you can use this method to touch the shoulder of a case and then SLOWLY adjust the die a tiny bit, wipe the lube and try to chamber, and repeat until the case just chambers. It is a little tedious but once you have your die adjusted and the ring locked, you should not have to go through it again. This works for me for lever actions, bolt actions, and single shots. Good luck.

I work down in a similar fashion but use a different case for each step.
once they chamber freely then I check another one and do them all from there.

I could care less if I only get 3-4 loads from a hunting case, I do care if my rifle is locked up and won't work opening morning 50 miles from home.

Screwing a FL die down to touch the shellholder typically results in more headspace than is needed or desired. This is because the die's largest dimensions must be smaller than the chamber's smallest dimensions, and if the die is on the tight side and the chamber is on the loose side, then you get brass that fits the chamber rather loosely, i.e. having "excessive" headspace.

But it is your gun that will tell you just how much sizing a case needs. Start with the FL die backed off of the shellholder a bit and simply keep turning it down until the sized case chambers without resistance. Regardless of how "big" or "small" the case was going in, it's going to be the same size coming out -- provided that pressures are not excessive enough to spring the action and allow the case to expand beyond the static dimensions of the chamber.

What everyone is describing is the exact procedure I use for bolt guns, so sounds like I'm good to go!

quote:

Originally posted by Lamar:
I could care less if I only get 3-4 loads from a hunting case, I do care if my rifle is locked up and won't work opening morning 50 miles from home.

This comment caught my attention. I formed 100 cases out of military 308 brass about 10 years ago - and I'm just now loading the last of that batch. I just don't shoot this rifle very much and even if I only get 3 or 4 more reloadings out of this brass it will last me 30-40 years.... I'm 57 years old so WHY AM I WORRYING ABOUT THIS?????

Personally, for a .006 variation. I will take reliable feeding over maybe an extra one or two firings. It's a model 99 300 Savage. The incipient head case separation issue inherent with those rifles will probably take the brass before shoulder hardening, and I doubt if you are using it as a match rifle.

I load a lot for the Savage 99, a few things are different..One is resize until the case goes in easy, and even that will cost your brass..The 99s is springy, and hard on brass. I full length resize it and when its goes bad I off that batch of brass and start over..I live with it but no problem because I don't shoot it much except when hunting and sighting in..

Of more importance is definatly use NEW brass when using max hunting loads, it will take a lot of pressure with new brass, but cut back two grains from that max load for the remainder of that lot of brass...Use PPU, starline, Rem or WW brass, but stay clear of Federal, it tends to blow in half with two max loads..Ive dug many a half case out of 99s, nice thing is the actions doesn't squirt hot gas in ones face like a bolt gun will do sometimes...but it pops the lever down and keep in mind if the lever moves when you shoot, that's your best warning, cut your load one grain or two whatever it takes..a sticky lever comes first so your forewarned..The 99s a great rifle if one understands it, if not shoot factory ammo..