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one of us |
I use a powder trickler on every rifle cartridge I load, if your going to do individual weighed charges it's the only way to go (unless you get a scale/trickler combo unit). Trimming I do (average) about every 5th loading. Most trimmers can also be set up to do outside neck turning and "donut" reaming tasks if you decide to go that far with your case prep. One thing I'd recogmend getting is a decent 6" dial caliper (vernier scales are a pain, and digitals (while nice) are a bit of over kill). | |||
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one of us |
quote:Good advice. In addition, get the very best, most rigid trimmer you can find. I have two from RCBS, one sort of old ('85), the other very old ('71), neither is particularly easy to get consistent results. Too much collet variation and succeptability to deflection from cutting pressure. Every time I use one of mine, I kick myself in the butt for still not replacing them yet. | |||
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one of us |
I don't really think it is a matter of how often you will use the case trimmer but more of how many cases you will be trimming. When I started reloading it was with Lee handloader dies and the Lee trimmer. The quantities were small but eventually grew. I then picked up a Forester trimmer and purchased the necessary accessories as I needed them. When the volume grew to a point that I got tired of turning the crank by hand I adapted it to a variable speed drill. If you're going to be doing high volumn you may want to look into power trimmers such as the Dillon, Gracy or Giraud. They all have features that I have liked but I guess I just hate to spend that much money when I can spend it in other areas. Besides I found that if you chuck up the Lee trimmer in a 3/4 HP drillpress running at 250 RPM it also works quite nice . If I were to invest in one right now it would probably be the Giraud (http://www.giraudtool.com/). | |||
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<bigcountry> |
I trim about every 2 firings. I have the RCBS but hate it with a passion. The case goes in a little cockeyed and trimming is difficult and often results in your case length not being as consistent as you might like. I am going to buy a gracey or a wilson when I can. | ||
one of us |
I tried the Lyman electric job many years ago, later replaced it with file dies which brought their own problems and have recently taken up with the Gracey. Why did it take me 24 years to figure this out?! I can churn thru buckets of brass with the Gracey but like any high-volume device, setting it up can be a pain. Once you get it dialed in, you can rock! Love that thing. Redial | |||
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one of us |
I started with an RCBS trimmer and never could get consistent results. Replaced the cutter and it went from bad to worse (dull).In desperation tried a Lee and never looked back.There is no adjustment feature so you either trim to max. or grind the depth control to some other value. I chuck the casing holder in a battery op. drill and feed the cutter in. Takes only a couple of seconds to trim and is very consistent.I also clean the case and ream the neck at the same time.I also use the Lee collet die to neck size the case - very fast.Powder dispensing without a trickler is very tedious. | |||
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one of us |
I started with the RCBS Trim Pro,got tired of the crooked necks and inconsistency and got a Wilson.Its great for rifle cases but a PITA for pistol.I'm going to try the Lee for them. Jeff | |||
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one of us |
Different caliber cases grow at varying rates. I rarely come home from a day at the range and find I don't have to trim them back. Now of course this means you need a calipher to determine when the case is over length. You'll also require a case mouth beveller to ream the inside and outside of the case mouth before you reload it. I like Redding trimmers as well as their powder trickler. It's a heavy little bugger so it won't slide all over your bench. Another tool more and more people are using is the primer pocket reamer. American companies punch out the primer pockets. This leaves a projection sticking up inside the case. It's best to get rid of it To be quite truthful, based on 35 years of reloading, I'd have to recommend Redding reloading tools. They carry a complete line and are quite popular with benchrest shooters, and those guys are competitors who use only the best. Happy reloading and best wishes. Cal - Montreal | |||
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one of us |
carr, when buying a case trimmer, keep in mind some/not all, of the trimmers can ALSO be use to outside neck turn cases. I like my Lyman. | |||
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one of us |
I HAD AN RCBS THAT I HATED SO MUCH I FINALLY GAVE IT AWAY. I THEN TOOK THE ADVISE OF A FRIEND AND BOUGHT A LEE TRIMMER, NAD HAVE BEEN HAPPY WITH IT. I DONT TRIM A LOT OF CASES, AND DONT TRIM THAT FREQUENTLY, BUT DIDNT WITH THE RCBS EITHER. THE LEE IS LESS MONEY AND A GOOD SYSTEM. GOOD LUCK AND GOOD HUNTING | |||
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one of us |
I have a Wilson with all the bells from Sinclair and a Lyman and use the simple Lee system. | |||
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one of us |
I use the Lee trimmers. They're cheap enough so that you can buy a seperate cutter/gauge for each caliber and then keep it in your die box. I also can't think of enough good things to say about the Lyman VLD inside chamfer tool. Whatever you decide on, a good stainless dial caliper is a must. Good luck with whatever you get. | |||
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<JohnD> |
I had an RCBS that gave me fits. With the draw collet design, minor variations in rim diameter lead to variations in length. Not enough to matter, but enough to send you on a wild goose chase trying to get consistency. Then I bought a Forster. Big improvement!! The collet goes against a shoulder so the variation is nil, and it cuts better and faster. I was using the trimmer for several calibers and neck turning for one. I've since purchased a second one (used, cheap) that I leave set up for neck turning only. I made several bushings to fit over the cutter shaft to go from one cartridge to another without changing the collar on the trimmer. The collar is set for the shortest case (.223), and I have bushings to go to .308, 6.5X55, 30-06 and .270. They're a big time saver. | ||
one of us |
I like to use a Lee case trimmer in a drill press. It is fast, accurate, easy, simple, and cheap. Hold the case with a pair of plyers with the jaws padded with leather. Set the drill press spindle to stop just as the pin in the Lee case trimmer guide rod touches the drill press table. When reforming cases that usually require the neck to be cut off and then trimmed, (such as reforming 30/06 cases to 8mm Mauser or 7.7mm Japanese) you can just trim the necks without cutting them off first, it is "FAST". | |||
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one of us |
I use both Wilson and Lyman trimmers. The Lyman does a good job, but the "universal jaw" is the weak link. In twenty years, I've rebuilt it twice. The Wilson does a great job, but is slower. It needs to be mounted in a vice, the others don't. If I buy another trimmer, it will be a Forster. Speaking of bells and whistles, If I were buying new equipment again I'd buy the following: -press co-ax (single) Dillon (progressive) -hand tools Sinclair, K&M, Sanders funnels -RCBS 10-10, or electronic w/dispenser -Redding powder measure (match grade) -Redding dies (standard&competition),or Forster ultra micrometer(competition) -wooden loading blocks These are tough products, won't break easily, and don't occupy the entire loading bench. Just the things 'ya learn the hard way. packrat [ 07-11-2003, 22:55: Message edited by: packrat ] | |||
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one of us |
I've been using the same Forster trimmer for more than 30 years. Last year I finally bought the adapter to replace the crank handle with a battery powered screwdriver. Now trimming isn't so much of a chore. I've never used a case trickler; I don't exactly know why. I set my RCBS Uniflow measure just shy of the weight I need then dribble in the rest using an old prescription pill bottle. It worked well with the beam scale and still works well on the digital scale. I don't think a trickler would be any better or faster. | |||
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