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deburring after neck sizing

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17 March 2008, 05:21
AS64
deburring after neck sizing
Should this be done or just after trimming the case. Thought maybe it would help with bullet seating thanks newbie
17 March 2008, 05:47
Eric
I beburr inside and outside with a Lee deburring tool after resizing as the passage of the die mandrel into and out of the case can, and will, raise a burr or two.

In my experience it makes starting the bullet a little easier.

I also insure case length is at the minimun length before deburring by trimming on my Forster trimmer. This is to insure that the case mouth s are square and that my crimp is the same on all rounds.

My two cents.

Regards,
Eric


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17 March 2008, 07:01
Beefa
Do it just after you trimmed the case on both inside and outside of neck


Beefa270: Yes I really love my 270win
17 March 2008, 23:56
Heat
I do a mild debur inside and out before I resize in order to make sure there are no burrs to scratch up the die or cause a stuck case. If trimming is necessary after that I obviously debur. I make sure that there are no burrs before I finish the reload to ensure easy bullet seating...

Ken....


"The trouble with our liberal friends is not that they are ignorant, but that they know so much that isn't so. " - Ronald Reagan
18 March 2008, 04:36
US1
deburr just before reloading.

Brass scratching hardended steel bewildered


Eagles from above
18 March 2008, 06:31
woods
Are we talking about deburring flash holes or chamfering necks??


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19 March 2008, 05:29
triggerguard1
You should always be deburring and trimming your cases after sizing, simply because the pilot that it running inside the neck for trimming needs to be running in a concentric neck, which won't be the case if it hasn't been sized.

I like to use the RCBS 3-Way cutter, so I'm trimming, chamfering, and deburring the inside all at once.


Williams Machine Works

20 March 2008, 02:41
Hot Core
Hey AS64, I do a P-FLR, thenTrim with the Lee Case Gauges(great inexpensive tools) then a very light Champfer of the Inside and Deburr the outside.

Years ago I also began Polishing the Case Mouth with a piece of 0000SteelWool wrapped around an old 22cal Bore Brush and stick it into a Lyman or RCBS Handle.

The wad of SteelWool should be large enough that it wraps over the Case Mouth as you stick the Case onto the Brush. Then give it just a couple of twists to remove all minor burrs.

Since beginning this, the number of Fliers at longer distances have dropped for me. I'll give Varmint Al credit for the idea, but I actually believe someone else told me before I saw his Cup shaped Polisher.

Best of luck to you.
20 March 2008, 05:47
wsj
quote:
I beburr inside and outside with a Lee deburring tool after resizing as the passage of the die mandrel into and out of the case can, and will, raise a burr or two.


Yep, me too, always.
20 March 2008, 21:18
Red C.
Ditto to wsj Wink


Red C.
Everything I say is fully substantiated by my own opinion.
20 March 2008, 21:53
Heat
quote:
Originally posted by US1:
deburr just before reloading.

Brass scratching hardended steel bewildered


Perhaps I should have said scuff or mar... Mostly I debur before resizing to ensure I don't get a stuck case because of a bur...

Ken....


"The trouble with our liberal friends is not that they are ignorant, but that they know so much that isn't so. " - Ronald Reagan
20 March 2008, 22:45
fredj338
quote:
Originally posted by Heat:
quote:
Originally posted by US1:
deburr just before reloading.

Brass scratching hardended steel bewildered


Perhaps I should have said scuff or mar... Mostly I debur before resizing to ensure I don't get a stuck case because of a bur...

Ken....

The only time I have ever had a stuck case was insufficient case lube. The mandrel friction is not going to cause a stuck case no matter how many burrs are there.


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