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Post deleted by ASS_CLOWN | ||
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Quote: AC ,try turning the cases slightly, then close! If it still doesn't close, try turning the case again slightly, and try closeing again. Do this with one case at a time, and when the rifle closes on the first case easily, then, leaving the first case in the rifle, insert the other case,in the other barrel, and follow the same drill with it, till it closes properly. This will work if the case heads are bent out of line with the case body, and indicates a springy action, OR thin brass, such as NORMA if it is for a 9.3X74R. If you change to heavier brass, back off on the load a little and work back up. The thicker will generate more pressure with heavier brass. The case head bending is common with thin brass in a double rifle. Sometimes you will get a couple re-loads in thin brass, and sometimes you will not be able to reload them at all. | |||
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Quote: To be consistent with that logic, you should have decided not to post words/ideas/experiences etc either! I thought the addition of pictures made this chronic back and forth between you and some of the other regulars (I am categorizing you as a "regular" since this has gone on for years now) a little more interesting at least. I am dissapointed that you will not be posting more. Cheers, Canuck | |||
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Where is everybody??? I know several people here who should be able to provide some additional insight to my question. Please help!!! ASS_CLOWN | |||
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One of Us |
The basic primise of the double rifle is to deliver a large caliber bullet at moderate speed and pressure in tropical heat. It is not about driving a bullet as fast as you can until you get pressure signs. They are not designed for that. They are designed for one weight bullet at a regulated speed. Bullets that cross are a sign of too fast. Sticky cases are a sign of you need to stick to a bolt action rifles. | |||
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I don't think you would see any pressure signs in the brass, since these doubles are designed for low pressure loads ie 40ksi - 50ksi. I could be wrong though, and if I am would someone who knows tell me so. ASS_CLOWN | |||
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<95yjcoup> |
AC, As I recall the rifle was a bit hard to open...the cases didn't eject. It was similar to extractors and I had to remove the cases manually. Hope this helps! | ||
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Some info on the rifle and obscure cartrige might be interesting. Got pics? | |||
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Post deleted by ASS_CLOWN | |||
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Canuck, Quote: Don't forget pictures! I am almost always accused of stealing the pictures I post! Who knows maybe I do! I can't remember most of the stuff I do, damned Jack Daniels/Wild Turkey/Black Velvet/Old Grandad/JW Dant/Jim Beam/Canadian Club/etc/etc/etc! ASS_CLOWN | |||
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95yjcoup, Thanks. How how difficult is a bit? ASS_CLOWN | |||
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I have decided to no longer post pictures. I am always accused of stealing them anyway. The rifle is a SXS rifle with a Purdey double underbite bolting system, no third bite/fastener. It is nitro proofed. Have you any experience with a double rifle exhibiting any of the phenomena I described? If so please elaborate on the whys and wherefores that generated the exhibition of said phenomena. ASS_CLOWN | |||
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Lar45 The rifle is tight and on the face. I hae checked it, and it is tight! I thought about the firing pins sticking out and catching as well, they do not seem to be, but who knows for sure. The primers look "normal". ASS_CLOWN | |||
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Glenn, it's a 25/20 sleeve in a rusted out 410.... and until it actually posts what it is... with PICS... well.. it's just sewer gas in the winds jeffe | |||
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AC: I would suggest that you read Wright's Shooting The British Double, read it again, then go forward. One, we don't want anyone hurt, and two, any double rifle is worth doing things right. | |||
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JBoutfishn, Agreed! ASS_CLOWN | |||
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Sorry about getting into this so late in the game, but I've been off line for a couple months, and just saw this! AC, first you need to look at the brass to see if the rims have been bent out of line with the case body. Check this by rolling the case across a piece of flat glass, like a table top! If the rim is, not 90 deg from the longatudnal (spl)line of the case, then the action is springy, and is momintarily springing the barrel set to the left when the right barrel is fired, and vice-verca for the left barrel. A rifle with a springy action will, most times seem to be tight, and on face. It IS tight and on face when you check it, but not durring the fireing of a cartridge, that is only slightly over pressure. CAUTION , if a double rifle becomes stuck after firing, do not force the rifle open, without removeing the foreend first! If this is not done the extractors, or ejectors may be damaged. Once the barrel set is off the action, then the cases can be removed with a cleaning rod! Then check the strikers to see they are not damaged. The key here is to understand that any double rifle load that causes sticky opening is the only sign needed to know you do not want to shoot that load in that rifle, even only a second time! Junk that load, and go with what shoots properly, and causes no sticking. The conditions that indicate over pressures in a double are very suttle, and if you shoot doubles, you need to forget eveything you learned about shooting, and loading for bolt rifles. Double rifles are a very uneque animals, and must be fed the proper food, or they will die! I have no idea what chambering you are refering to, but IMR 4350 doesn't ring a bell, to me, as sound choice for most double rifle chamberings! | |||
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<Timberghost> |
Mac, Please elaborate on removing the forend before opening a stuck double. I just purchased my first double a month ago and after we solved the keyholing problem, I am having no troubles with it, but knowledge on such things is good to know. I would like to here about the mechanics of the extractors. Love to here the experienced talk about double rifles. Thanks, Ghost | ||
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Quote: Timberghost , You remove the forend in the normal manner as if you were breaking the rifle down! The reason you remove the forearm is, the lug that drives the extractor is on the forearm iron, and in the forearm iron is the hammers that drive the ejectors. With the forearm removed the extractors/ejectors stay in the closed position when the barrels are removed! With the forearm installed the extractor/ejectors have to move as the barrels swing down, and may be bent by trying to remove stuck cases! Hope that helps! | |||
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Jeffe, now that sounds like a great Idea. I'll have to see if I can find a POS 410 to play with. Maybe my 30Erin cartrige would be better though. 30/38spl. I made one up on a flare gun for a friend awhile back. Did you ever get your Bauska 475 barrels? I ordered 2 but haven't heard from them. | |||
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Glenn, I spoke with Steve at Bauska Friday. SHould be ready in a couple weeks. jeffe | |||
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