Okay I am not totally new to reloading but I dont have much experience with reloading for rifles. I have two questions and I would imagine you guys could help to accelerate my learning curve:
1) I have seen several listing that show different burn rates from fast to slow for commercial powders. What practical effect does this have on the bullet?
2) I have read a little about imperial sizing wax. Is this really prefered to RCBS lube and pad? How is the product applied to cases?

Oversimplified, burn rate really doesn't have an effect on the bullet, it has to do with chamber pressure and the time it takes the powder to burn to create the "design" pressure for the given cartridge.

As far as lube goes, I think properly used, (and I've used them all) they all work pretty much the same. Imperial lube is finger applied.

I'll go along with that just adding that the effect on the bullet is to get it to the desired velosity efficiently. Usually a faster burn for light bullets slower for the heavies.
Also case design and calibre are factors.

As for lube, one joker here uses vasaline and another automotive oil. I haven't seen any imperial here, but anything seems to work. I use Redding oily, rcbs water based, and Lee wax in a tube and graphite for neck sizing.

As far as the lube is concerned, I now use the Imperial sizing wax, and would through the RCBS in the trash. It gums up sizing dies and does a crappy job of lubing. The Imperial works so well, I have to check at times to be sure I have a case in the press.

quote:

Originally posted by Blackhawk83:

1) I have seen several listing that show different burn rates from fast to slow for commercial powders. What practical effect does this have on the bullet?

To get a real handle on this would take a geuine lengthy disertatation. All the info you are asking for is somewhat covered in some of the loading manuals such as Speer #12.

Oddly enough this information was hardly coverd, that I could find, in the most recent Accurate powder reloading manual nor for that matter in the Lee manual. Hatcher's Note Book covers it but it is a little lengthy.

I've never tried but you might contact one of the powder manufacturors and request that information. The horse'e mouth philosophy. roger

For most reloaders the burn charts are nothing more then a means of determining what powders MAY BE suitable for a given application.
If for instance a 165 gr bullet in a 30-06 does well with H4350 but you can`t seem to find it at your dealers (yep, it happened once) a look at the burn chart shows R19, H414, and IMR4350 as having close to the same charactoristics. This tells one that the others "should" be a possible replacement, if you have data, vs the can of R12 or IMR7828 you have on your shelf.
This doesn`t mean they are the same, or will give the same result, just that they ought to perform more or less similarly as to velocity at exceptable pressure.
The whole story as noted is better found in the mauals, or from a take with a tech at Hodgdon, Alliant, ect.

thank you bart for another huge pile of horse dung!

Powders have different burn rates because it's a little harder to accelerate heavier bullets than it is to accelerate lighter bullets. Too slow a powder behind a light bullet tends toward leaving unburned powder in the barrel and poor load performance (low velocity). Too fast a powder behind a heavy bullet might mean the powder is all burned before the bullet goes anywhere which can lead to pressure problems and worse.

Most people choose the powder after choosing the bullet, but there is no real reason not to choose the bullet based on the available powder. People normally choose the bullet based on what they want to do with the gun, and then pick a powder that works well for that bullet.

For example: I want to knock over Bullwinkle so I pick a nice 220 grain bullet for my 30-06. Those choices dictate that I need a slow powder to push that heavy bullet well and safely at a velocity to knock over Bullwinkle. If I decide to do in Rocky (the flying ground squirrel) with the same gun, I probably will be using something more appropriate like a 110 grain bullet. That choice dictates a much faster powder.

Within the broad middle range of most cartridges is where things get muddy. For pushing bullets in a 30-06 between 130 and 180 grains there is a lot of overlap. In that middle you operate in the skill and knowledge of the game arena. Making the gun shoot accurately at acceptable velocity for the job at hand is a game of trade offs. Sometimes you give up a little accuracy for the velocity you want/need. Sometimes you give up a little velocity for the accuracy you want/need.

With the bullet selection, powder selection, case selection and control of variables like seating depth etc you can usually make a decent rifle shoot very well with a little work on your part.

With rifles I like to use a powder that fills the case to the shoulder junction or half way up the neck, so that is normally a slow burning powder..I don't want airspace between bullet and powder..This is a simplification but a good practice for a new reloader..

I really like Imperial wax..I use it both on a pad and apply it with my fingers. Rub it into the pad until it disapates.

quote:

Originally posted by highpower223:
thank you bart for another huge pile of horse dung!

Loud and clear! Just for your roses! roger

quote:

I have read a little about imperial sizing wax. Is this really prefered to RCBS lube and pad? How is the product applied to cases?

I used RCBS lube for years if you put too much on it will cause dents in the case. A little dab will do to little cases will stick in the resizing die. I have gone to Imperial sizing wax for most of my resizing not quite as messy to work with a little on your finger wipe it arround the case and you are set, too much and it will cause dents also. Too little stuck cases will happen. It is something you will have to practice with to get the how much figured out.

Imperialsize wax is the best!!