Hello all im new to the sight and more than new to reloading (as in ive never doen it yet) ive been thinking alot about reloading lately for a few reasons 1: its getting harder and harder to find rounds in my neck of the woods and i don't like that much and 2:i aspire to be a 1 gun hunter when at all possible. my forte is primarily larger game (loosely defined) as im a ca native that meaning Blacktail, pigs and bears will be my primary quary though i deffinately intend to add mulies and elk to the list at some point hopefully soon. so the concearn is that with the addition of the larger game i want to heat up the savage a little bit and add a little more thump to my rounds. so please advise a noob on what to do and what not to do on all acounts. equiptment to by or stay away from, books ect, best bullets and brass to use ect. advise away

That's kinda like asking "how long is a piece of string".
First off, I'd get at least one good reloading book. And read it thru. A couple of times. You can often find reloading books on Ebay at a reasonable price. The intro and technique sections don't change. Usually the only revisions are adding cartridges and updating data so the portions you would be most interested in would be current so to speak. And to, the data on the .300 Savage should be pretty complete.
The amount of "stuff" you're gonna be told you "must have" in order to reload is gonna be pretty intimidating and vast. That isn't the case. Read your books first. Then decide by your level of commitment and resourses whether you need a beginners kit from Lee or one of the more expensive ones from one of the other providers. The only hint I'll give you at this point is I've been reloading for 45 years and I still do all my reloading on single stage presses.

quote:

so the concearn is that with the addition of the larger game i want to heat up the savage a little bit and add a little more thump to my rounds

May I assume a Savage 99?.....if this is the case I'd like to suggest you just spend the reloading money on a 30-06 in a fine bolt action.

This will address the extra whoompass you're looking for and you won't have to reload to do it.

Increasing the power of a 300 Savage may be a poor reason to start reloading.

quote:

May I assume a Savage 99?.....if this is the case I'd like to suggest you just spend the reloading money on a 30-06 in a fine bolt action.

+1

Even if you're not shooting a 99, the 300 Savage just doesn't have the size or capacity to hot rod to something it is not. The .30-06 is a much more versatile round that will be effective on everything you mentioned (assuming those are black bears).

And if you want to go really versatile, get a .375H&H.

To answer your question about reloading equipment. Less is more to start. Get a single stage press kit from a reputable manufacturer and add the bits and pieces that you need here and there as you need them. I tried to buy everthing I needed in one swoop from Midway and wound up with a bunch of stuff that I really don't need. You'll need to do some reloading to see what you really need and want for what you are doing.

Also, get a reloading manual for each brand of bullet you will be loading. Don't use the XXX book for a YYY bullet. If not that, at least use data specific to the bullet you are reloading. All 30 cal 150 grain bullets are NOT the same.

I am a big fan of the Barnes TSX bullets. It is a highly effective bullet that has been quite accurate for me. Barnes makes 130 and 150 grain versions of it that might take your 300 Savage to the level you are looking for. These are quite devastating bullets.

Barnes

LWD

Unless you want to stay with a particular 99 I would move up to a newer one in 308 Win or 358 Win. Hot rodding the 300 Savage is not a good idea. Second choice would be what LWD said; look at loading with Barnes TSX bullets at normal 300 Sav pressures. That will make more sense after you get a good manual or two and thoroughly read them.

I load my 99 with 165 gr rem cor locs at 2400 fps plenty of power out to a couple hundred yards. Why push a old gun.

i kinda figured ide get a few "just by my favorite gun" coments heres a little history. Savage 99E Chambered in .300 savage produced in ether 1939 or 40 purchased brand spanken new by my grandad from his dads general store given to my dad when he started hunting (12-13ish) given to me on my 18th b-day been killing bucks on our property sence the first season the property was ours (sence like the mid 40's) killed 2 award winning B & C nontypical Blacktails. and most importantly the only rifle i intend to hunt with till the point that it becomes inhumane to my quarry. ive read every piece of literiture i can get my hands on that concearns my rifle and have heard its effective on every manner of game on our continent save for Grizz, i don't know that i will ever go moose hunting and if i did id probly opt for my old mans 7mm mag. and as far as the other comments about "over loading my savage" im not looking to break the sound barrier or be the first to achieve a new world record with my rounds i probly stated that poorly what im really after is a way to increase the factory loads acuracy and if safely possible put a little more velocity behind the bullets. but i also started doing some online shopping sence postingand was wondering how you all feel about lee's 2nd edition manual?

Sounds to me you are totally familiar with that fine 99. It and you I'm sure would make an adequate combination on any thing on this continent up to and including moose.

An 06 bolt action holds a lot of charm for most and looks a lot better on review, but with the confidence you seem to have in you and your Savage .300 ( it is truely an adequate cartridge) it won't gain you anything.

If you take up reloading and achieve factory balistics only, you will get the job done and get enjoyment and satisfaction doing it. GAURUUNTEED. roger

I would not push the 99 either. But, with good bullets it is good for any of the game that you mentioned including elk.

While the .30-06 is my personal favorite, there are no flies on your .300 savage. Like Bartsche said, it will kill anything you will shoot in CA without any problems. There is no need to hotrod the loads either.

Modern powders will get you velocities not far behind the .308, another favorite of mine, without excess pressures.

Get a couple of reloadiong manuals and read them several times.

Remington chambered the 300 Savage in one of their yearly "classic" series, just a couple of years ago. In a bolt action, with the bullet seated out further than you can in the Model 99 (I also have a Model 99 in .300 Savage) you can get some interesting velocities. I strongly advise against experimenting with hot loads in the Model 99.

quote:

Originally posted by Savage_man_300:
...im not looking to break the sound barrier or be the first to achieve a new world record with my rounds i probly stated that poorly what im really after is a way to increase the factory loads acuracy and if safely possible put a little more velocity behind the bullets. ...

Hey SM 300, I had a 300Sav 99E but it was newer than yours. They are one of the finest "carrying" rifles made for my hands - just seem to fit.

Improve Factory Ammo accuracy? When I got my totally "new" M99, I also got two boxes of Factory Ammo. Tried a few shots and was barely able to keep them on an 8.5"x11" Target at 100yds. Tried the other box with the same results. Everything looked right and tight on the rifle. And since I already was Reloading other cartridges, it was just a matter of getting the Dies.

First Loads with the 150gr Nosler Solid Base Bullets were solid 3" groups. Messed with the Load, but that Powder stayed right at 3" and the Pressure was a bit erratic. Re-scanned the Load Manuals and went to a different Powder - groups went to 1.25"-1.5" - which was perfectly fine for where I'd be using it.

Many, many years later I re-found those old Factory Ammo boxes. Decided to pull the bullets and use them for Fire Forming in a different rifle. SURPRISE! SURPRISE!! As Gomer used to say, some Production Mgr at the factory had them use "Set-Up Bullets" in those Factory Cartridges. Worse "Management" of Bullets for Ammo I've ever seen. No wonder it wouldn't hit the Target.
-----

When you realize the newer M99s were chambered for cartridges like the 284Win, it can cause a person to draw a wrong conclusion about the Pressure that is OK to use in the M99. The problem is that the rifle can take that Pressure, but the Cases can not. That is because of the Rear Lock-Up Action design. You can easily get Case Head Separations as quickly as the 3rd shot from a Case - if you try to jack it up. Soooo..., you need to learn about Insipient Case Head Separations(ICHS) and how to detect them with the "L-shaped" Feeler.

But there is Good News too. You simply use one weight Heavier Bullet than what people normally consider optimum for the Game at hand, and make sure the Bullet is of a "Standard Grade"(aka Non-Premium). Bullets like the old Nosler Solid Base, Hornady Interlock, Speer Boat Tail, Remington Core-Lokt and the Sierra Game Hunter bullets work great at these Velocities. On a Deer, Hog or Black Bear use a 165gr or a 180gr and it will do just fine.

I can also recommend using Once Fired 7.62NATO(308Win) Military Cases to make your 300Sav Cases from. It is a bit thicker at the Web and will allow a couple more shots-per-case. But it is a good bit of Trimming and a Lathe style Trimmer will help speed the process.

In the beginning, just get the proper headstamoed 300Sav Cases, check for ICHS after EACH firing and enjoy the fine old rifle.

Best of luck to you.

thanks all for the advice and as far as the nato rounds that sounds like it'd probly save me a buck or to. for now alot of hunting and reading and when im comfortable ill start the learning process.

i have an old savage 99 and to reload for it, went to ebay and bought an old bonanza 68 press and old ch scale, an old bear powder measure and saved some money in the process. its a neat setup using old equipment to load for an old rifle.

I'll double agree with the advice on buying a good loading manual and reading the how to section a couple times before you go shopping for hardware and components. Speer, Nosler, Sierra, and Hornady are all very good. The Lyman manual is a classic as well. As for loads I'd start with Remington 150 gr Corelokt purchased in bulk from the likes of Midway. It's accurate, performs reliable on game, and you won't find a cheaper game bullet. Then, instead of firewalling a Savage just to hunt elk you could switch to a Nosler Partition or Barnes X of the same weight when you need a deeper hole. Welcome to the fraternity.

I find it totally laughable that if you dare to say the 30-30 is a POS, you will get flamed right off the board by folks that claim truly mystical powers for it. And will tell you about Uncle Zeke that routinely takes elk and grizzly bears and T-Rexes and such with his.
But here is a fellow with a M-99 which is a weapon that is vastly superior to the M-94 firing a cartridge that is vastly superior to the 30-30 with the extra advantage of spitzer bullets and everybody tells him to get a 30-06.
Hand loaded ammo will give him a quality ammo without hot rodding his rifle. More accurate; more uniform. Capable of taking anything in North America (although I would want to be up a tree before I started shooting at a grizz )

Your .300 Savage is entirely adequate for all you have described -- and those who don't think so have little or no experience with the cartridge itself. A good 150 grain bullet will take care of deer and hogs with ease, and if you do ever move up to to hunting elk, a Partition, Accubond or TSX in the right place will fill your freezer for the winter. It may not set the world on fire with magnum-like ballistics, but it shoots plenty flat for 250 yard shooting and gets the job done when it gets there. In fact, standard cup and core bullets do extremely well in this cartridge due to the mild velocity, which allows the bullets to retain a high degree of weight/mass and thus afford excellent penetration.

Get a couple of loading manuals, read them and take things slowly. And when you do begin loading, keep in mind that Re-15 seems tailor-made for the cartridge and will often give you velocity and accuracy that can't be matched.

The .300 Savage is a wonderful cartridge that needs no excuses.

I forgot to add: My last hunting excursion took place about a couple weeks ago when I decided to try and take out some hogs that were destroying a neighbor's crops.

The first evening, the hogs came out right at dusk. I was hunting from a tower blind, and my gun of choice was a Savage FP in .308 WCF with a 20" heavy barrel. The load pushes the Nosler 150 grain Solid Base at 2780 fps -- .300 Savage performance, if you will. After taking 2 from about 140 and 180 yards, another hesitated in the distance in front of an old fence. I earlier ranged it at 277 yards, so I put the crosshairs a little high on the back and squeezed off a shot. The bullet hit home, and the hog -- a sow weighing app. 210-220 pounds -- simply folded on the spot.

A magnum caliber or another gun couldn't have done a better or more humane job.

I also hunt with a 300 Savage and it makes a great deer gun. My gun is a Remington 760 Pump made in the early 50’s. Some day I hope to own an old Savage 99 in 300 Savage.

I reload the 300 Savage with 150 gr. Rem. Core-Lock bullets and Win. 748 powder. It makes for a very accurate load. Carefully work-up your loads because I found that the published maximum loads were to hot for my gun and I was piercing primers. I would doubly caution you to reduce and carefully work-up your loads if you used reformed 7.62x51 NATO (308 Win.) military brass due to the reduced case capacity.

quote:

I would doubly caution you to reduce and carefully work-up your loads if you used reformed 7.62x51 NATO (308 Win.) military brass due to the reduced case capacity.

Good point.....but I'd seriously recommend to never use this brass in a Savage 99....as good as they are they are not like a bolt action or even as strong as the Remington 760!

As far as getting into reloading goes, first, buy a book, or reloading manual that covers all aspects of reloading, including the loading sequence.
Second, buy an RCBS reloading kit that they sell. It's the best deal out there for quality equipment.
From there on, just ask questions here about anything you need answers to, and we'll help.
Lastly, hang on to the 99 in 300 Savage and continue using it. My first rifle was a Remington Model 722 in 300 Savage that I bought in 1950. Lots of game animals shot with that rifle.

Don

Don? I still have a 722 in 300 Savage made in 1951. It has taken quite a few deer and is still very accurate.

RenegadeRN

I have put a 308 reamer in a 300 Sav Arisaka, and with a few twists of the wrist, made it a 308.