Gents:

I am about to get my CZ back from Dennis Olson and would like to start handloading the rifle to discover what she likes to eat best.

I am thinking for now a good 250-270 grain bullet at moderate velocity for general hunting needs. I have been gobbling up CCI 250 primers and now have a goodly supply along with brass.

What might you recommend?

Thanks!

Jeff

No, it doesn't seem obvious at all. It is particularly not obvious what caliber you're talking about, which might have some small bearing on the advice you get back

Jeff,

You forgot to mention the cartridge you're with which you're working.

If a .375, the following seem sensible:

260 gr Nosler Partition (for lighter game)

270 gr Barnes TSX for game requiring more penetration

270 gr Woodleigh (soft or PP)


If the 9,3 cartidges:

250 gr Barnes TSX for flatter trajectory

250 gr Woodleigh PP

250 gr Woodleigh RN

286 gr Nosler Partition

286 gr Woodleigh RN or PP

If another caliber ...

my bad; 375 H&H. sorry.

Jeff, look 2 threads b/4 this. I think you will find a good starting point.

I can only recomend the Nosler 260gr accubond. Good bullet, good terminal performance, good BC and relativly cheap.

Thanks, all. there seems to an absolute plethora of good bullets out there. all the more reason to have fun handloading so I can see which one my new toy will like best!

here's a question: I have read where some folks advise crimping TSX bullets. What does this mean and how is it done?

quote:

Originally posted by jsl3170:
Thanks, all. Here's a question: I have read where some folks advise crimping TSX bullets. What does this mean and how is it done?

Crimping can be done with some reloading dies -- follow directions. It means making the lip of the shell tighten down / become smaller in diameter with a view to holding the bullet in place. Another way is to get a Lee crimp die specific to the caliber in question. It will come with directions. Do TSX bullets need crimping? That will be up to you, but I crimp everything in larger calibers myself. Be careful to crimp at a particular cannelure or in the case of Barnes one of the bands. Lee says you can do it into the side of the bullet anywhere but it would change the integrity too much for my own cautious self.

Hope that helps, and don't do anything before reading ALL the directions. (Oh, be prepared to mess up a few cases until you know what's up...)

Thanks. I have some RCBS dies for the 375 H&H. So, are you suggesting I get some Lee Crimping dies for the cartridge instead?

I like the Lee Taper Crimp dies.

You will really like the .375 H&H Load it up, Load it down, it is still accurate. I always us Federal 215s with my loads. Accubonds work great in my rifle. There is also a reduced load with 5744. I can't remember the exact load. You can contact Accurate Powders and they will send you the data. Remember no fill with 5744.

Hope you enjoy your 375 H&H!

Right now on Bivwak, Nosler has some 300 gr Partitions for sale @ 28.95 per 50. These are a "Buy Now" offering and not an auction (Bullets are 2nds)

Go to the site and type 2nds in the search window and it will pull up the 2nds from Shooters pro shop which is the Nosler outlet.

http://www.bivwak.com/index.php

I like two powders for the 375 H&H. Any brand 4350 and IMR-4064. Either LRM or LR primers work, just dont change primers with out re-working the load.

Enjoy the H&H! It is like my .62 caliber Roundball gun, just about as high as I can go in power and still have fun shooting it!

What I use for my 375 H&H Magnum is:

Powder: RL-15
Primers: Federal 215M
Bullet: Hornady 300 gr. BT Spire Points or Hornady 300 gr. FMJ Round Noses.

At 100 yards, both of the above bullets hit about the same place which is handy when you want to shoot a small animal with a big gun and little damage (hence the FMJ load). At 100 yards the Spire Points do 1.5 inches or less for 3 shot groups and the FMJs an inch or less.