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<Hicks> |
Who makes the best neck turning tool? What features do I need to look for before I make my decision? I will turn 22-250, .270 and, .308 cases. | ||
Moderator |
Do a web search for Varmint Al, and read his excellent essay on neck turning. Unless you have a tight necked chamber, it isn't needed, and I have never read a published account of how much, if any, it improved the accuracy in a gun. Personally, I think its a waste of time unless you have a gun accurate enough to benfit from those nats ass improvements. | |||
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one of us |
Don't waste your time turning necks. If they are within .0015" in uniform neck walls, you don't need it. If they exceed that, dump the brass and buy some better stuff. Most brass falls within that limit and if it doesn't, it's also lumpy in the body and turning won't help that. The best and most accurate neck turning tool is made by K&M Sevices, 5430 Salmon Run Rd., Dover, PA 17315. About $88. Turns down to, and is adjustable to, .0002". [This message has been edited by Bob338 (edited 07-13-2001).] | |||
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<chris schwartz> |
Agree with Bob - if you are working with hunting/varmint rifles with factory chamberings, it probably will not make much of a difference in your groupings and not worth the trouble and tool expense. Neck turning came into the picture when Sinclair International is a good place to Chris | ||
one of us |
Neck turning will always improve concentricity. Done properly it will also reduce the working of the brass. It will be possible to load straighter ammunition. Straight is good. It is true that the rifle must be accurate enough to show the difference. I will never turn a neck for my 35 Whelen for instance. Also a rifle with somewhat sloppy dimensions will tolerate crooked ammo better than a precision chamber. I like the forster turner fine but for turning fitted necks I do it on the lathe. Regards, Bill. | |||
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<reload> |
Have three forster outside neck turning units and they work great and will help add to your accuracy. When cutting your brass go easy, my first cut is very light and you can see how much your brass is out of round. In some cases one light cut may be enough. Don't make one big cut, it can cause problems. With forster I get a adaptor so I can use a cordless drill for a faster smooth cut. Good Luck! | ||
<George Capriola> |
My vote has to go to the Forster, too. I have a Sinclair setup too, but the Forster is much nicer to use, and a very nice case trimmer, to boot! George. | ||
<Bill Tompkins> |
All, Neck turning came about to correct the lack of consistency in the thickness of the neck wall in factory brass. Gunsmith's did not just decide to cut tighter chambers. If a bullet is seated correctly in a neck that is cylindrical (even wall thickness around the entire neck) it is retained by consistent neck tension and it is centered in the chamber. This creates the best situation possible for accuracy in any rifle. The tight chamber (neck) is the necessary reaction to the turning of the necks so as to leave about 0.0015" to 0.003" of clearance around the neck for the neck to expand and release the bullet. I'm sure it is a typo, because neck thickness generally runs 0.0105" to 0.015" each side not within .015" as stated earlier. No brass would chamber if it was within 0.015". Bill | ||
one of us |
Bill~ You're right, it was a typo. Missed one decimal point. Now corrected. Wish you or I had caught it earlier. | |||
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one of us |
For the money, the best neck turning tool available is the K&M neck turning tool system(with expanding mandrels). FWIW, the Forster Case Trimmer is a fine tool....for trimming cases only. It's outside neck turning attachment will produce a neck-wall thickness run-out that, at times, is greater than the factory brass. This is because the case is being held rigidly, and not allowing the neck to perfectly follow the mandrel. The fit of the mandrel is also not what it should be. Don't think so? Put a turned case on a neck-wall run-out guage, and see for yourself....as I did 15 years ago. Have 17, Will Travel | |||
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