I read some comments on some other posts about belted magnums being a reloading problem. I know people do it so would you experienced belt loaders please explain the difficulties if any and how you work around the difficulties if any.
Thanks

There is no more major problems loading belted cases as opposed to any other type of case.. The only thing is belted cases headspace on the belt, not the shoulder as in rimless cases. So repeated full length sizing could (probably) shorten case life considerably.
When sizing belted cases just size down until the shoulder of the sizing die just touches the shoulder of the case. The case was fire-formed in the chamber so there is no need to push the shoulder back when sizing.
If you need more help determining how this is done holler back and we'll go over it some more.

I might just be lucky, but my sizing die doesn't come within 1mm of my .375 cases' shoulders. They chamber smoother than silk, and I have used my present batch of cases for a very long time - probably too long

It's really a matter of finding what works for you. I must say that I like the idea of zero headspace tolerance (achieved by not touching the shoulder when resizing), but if I had any difficulty closing my bolt on a reloaded cartridge, I would set my sizer die up to just kiss the shoulder, and try again.

Thanks for your help. In the post that I was referring to some were advising a shopper to not buy a belted magnum due to loading problems.
It got me to second guess my desire for a 375H&H so thanks for the reassurance.
Is there a die set that works better on belts such as Redding over RCBS or does either just make dies that are designed to make sizing of belted cartridges easier?

I agree with what RDub said.

I just re-size the case neck (and shoulder slightly if needed), so tha case chambers easily in my rifle. Have your rifle on hand when setting up your re-sizing die, so you can determine at what point you have done enough re-sizing for the case to chamber reliably. Note: since the 375H&H is generally used on DGR game you want to make sure that the cartridges will chamber reliably and without a lot of effort (i.e., effort to close the bolt on the round). At that point you are really headspacing on the shoulder vs the belt. This will also prolong case life as there isn't as much room in the chamber for stretching of the brass and it should also promote better accuracey as the cartridge is usually more centered in the chamber when headspacing on the shoulder vs the belt.

As far as reloading dies - my preference is for Redding dies (to me they are better engineered).

I handload for a .375 H&H, and a .300 Win Mag, in addition to some non-magnum cartridges. I don't find any difficulty in handloading for the belted magnums. It's no more trouble than loading the others.

Thanks guys, you make it sound fairly simple like other cases. What I normally do is set up so that I can close the bolt with no effort because I don't want anything sticky in the woods no matter if shooting a deer or something dangerous. I just don't like problems and some guys made very negative post on another thread about loading belted rounds.
Thanks for your time.

The belted bottlenecked cartridges are not as easy to handload as the design must allow clearance for the shoulder. Thus the expansion web will be stretched if the cartridge case is returned to it's orginal dimension. Of course this will happen with rimless rounds as well it's just that it's worse with belted rounds.

Check inside of your fired cases for insipiant head separations. Throw those out that have a ring inside.