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I just bought my first .45, actually my first autoloader handgun and I'm going to start making loads for it. I've loaded thousands of revolver loads with a roll crimp but the taper crimp is new to me. Is a taper crimp even necessary, or what do most of you guys do when loading the .45? I don't want to overcrimp them. Just looking for suggestions since I'm fairly unfamiliar with this round.
 
Posts: 192 | Registered: 05 September 2005Reply With Quote
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The reasons for the taper crimp are twofold: so recoil forces won't affect OAL, and because movement over the feed ramp can affect OAL too.

Some of my favorite loads revolved around Unique and Blue Dot, but Hodgdon's Clays was a standout because it was so clean.
 
Posts: 3889 | Registered: 12 May 2005Reply With Quote
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A taper crimp is necessary so that the cartridge will headspace on the case mouth.
 
Posts: 388 | Location: NW Oregon | Registered: 13 November 2005Reply With Quote
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Actually the extractor will headspace the case and a roll crimp will work. Don't recommend it though. A taper crimp is an extra step in the process but, in my opinion, ensures smoother feeding up the ramp. Have fun, the .45 is a great cartridge to reload.


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Posts: 420 | Location: Troy, Michigan | Registered: 21 December 2004Reply With Quote
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The case mouth should be crimped just enough to remove any belling. The case wall tension should be enough to hold the bullet.
I crimp mine to a point where the VERY EDGE of the case mouth measures .468" - .472" depending on the brass used, measured with my caliper. ( case wall thickness variation will vary the crimp) Winchester and Federal cases I have at the moment are crimped to 0.470 - 0.472" and work fine. I set my die with the bullet seated and no crimp then unscrew the seating stem and turn the die body down until contact is made. Try 1/8 turns or so measuring as you go until you find the depth you are happy with and tighten the lock ring. Rescrew the seating stem until it contacts the bullet and try a couple rounds to insure the settings are what you want. Don`t over crimp! Over crimping will bulge the case behind it and interfere with feeding. When you have a good crimp you should just be able to see a bit of burnishing of the edge of the case mouth.
Good shooting... thumb


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Posts: 2535 | Location: Michigan | Registered: 20 January 2001Reply With Quote
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Ol Joe has it right. You can roll crimp, but only enough to turn the "bell" into the bullet. Headspace is on the case mouth & if you over crimpit is possible for the case to creep forward just enough to misfire.


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Posts: 7752 | Location: kalif.,usa | Registered: 08 March 2001Reply With Quote
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Thanks Smiler
I have an RCBS press and dies and I've ordered a set of RCBS .45 dies which are taper crimp. I also have some Starline brass coming which I expect within the next day or two so I should be set to do some loading this weekend.
 
Posts: 192 | Registered: 05 September 2005Reply With Quote
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i highly recomend a progressive press for doing your 45's. i started with a rcbs piggyback and then went to a dillion. and if you want, you can use rcbs dies in a dillion. i do like the sepperate crimp and seater die of dillions.

if it wasnt for having a progressive,id be reloading more than shooting.

enjoy the 45,there fun
 
Posts: 135 | Registered: 10 January 2006Reply With Quote
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I have an RCBS turret press. Its faster than a single stage but nowhere near as fast as a progressive. I like it though, I can set up my dies and powder measure on the head and load each round start to finish without removing the shell. I can load two or three rounds per minute that way. I might buy a progressive in the future, but right now I'm saving up to stock up on more supplies since I've heard rumors of higher prices in the future.
 
Posts: 192 | Registered: 05 September 2005Reply With Quote
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