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Re: where to start with powder charges? New to loading
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Use published data starting with the "starting load." I usually work up to the "maximun load" in half grain increments. Reduced loads and over max loads are a whole nother issue. At this point in your loading career, don't go there.
 
Posts: 8169 | Location: humboldt | Registered: 10 April 2002Reply With Quote
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Picture of fredj338
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Yo dog, to save ammo I would load (3) rounds each starting by splitting the diff. btwn. starting & max. Load in 1/2gr increments & shoot for group. Watch for pressure signs & reshoot the promising loads for (5) shot. Personaly, I think (3) shot groups for a big game round are fine. If you are shooting target/varmint rifle then I would be more concerned about (5) shot strings.

If you have access to a chronograph it will help in your load development. There are other factors to concider besides powder charge. Often bullet seating depth will greatly effect accuracy, primer brands, case capacity, how you size your brass (full, partial or neck), alot of things can come into play when fine tuning your loads. Good luck, good shooting.
 
Posts: 7752 | Location: kalif.,usa | Registered: 08 March 2001Reply With Quote
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Thanks guys, I have been reading everything I can to learn as much as I can.

I have resized with RCBS FL dies. I bought some CCI 200 primers. Resized and trimmed to spec. Then I deburred the flash holes, cleaned the primer pockets.

I have tried to follow everything to the book because I want to do it right. Thanks again. I will try the 3 shot groups in half grain increments.
 
Posts: 525 | Registered: 21 December 2002Reply With Quote
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I use 165 grain Nosler Partitions with 57 grains of IMR 4350 with CCI 200 primers. This load chronographs at 2814 fps and gives me less than 1" groups at 100 yds. Start below this charge and work up to it in .5 grain increments. I load five of each to allow for my errors. I load more of the most accurate and return to the range to verify the load.
 
Posts: 257 | Location: Torrance, Ca | Registered: 02 July 2002Reply With Quote
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The absolute single best piece of advice I can give you as you get into reloading is this,

BUY A CHRONOGRAPH!!

You can get a shooting crony for under 100 bucks and a lightweight camera tripod for 25.

ONLY when you are chronographing your loads do you really know what is going on. It's also just neat to be able to say rather than guess at your velocities. Remember all else being equal, bullet, rifle, primer, seating depth and case, VELOCITY = PRESSURE. There is no free lunch. You wil also find that a load a few grains shy of max. is more pleasant to shoot.
 
Posts: 1525 | Location: NC | Registered: 10 June 2002Reply With Quote
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The answer to your question totally depends on the firearm you are using and the components used.



I have put together a quick spreadsheet using Microsoft Excel to use for all my experimental workings.



It requires six different operations at the range. It also entails a little work on your part. (There are no shortcuts!)



First you plug in the low charge and low velocity listings as found in as many reloading manuals you have, then you plug in the highest values. (You can leave your particular charge empty for the time being.)



The spreadsheet will then list the charges for the first of the firing tests. Twenty in all, and spaced at recommended charge weights.



After you enter the data obtained in the first firing, it will automatically select the charges for the second firing. After you enter that data, it will select the third firing, and so on until it has narrowed it down to the best load.



Then you can plug in the final load in the "My loading" block, and it will show what you are actually getting as compared to what the namuals state you would be getting.



Oh, and you load 6 of each...one for fouling before each 5 for record. You clean after each 5-shot record string, and then fire the fouling shot. Allow 2 minutes between each round for barrel cooling, and 10 minutes after each 5-shot string. (This will give you time to go downrange and collect your target. Use a new target for each 5-shot grouping, or at least a target large enough so that your strings do not overlap.)



An example of the blank sheet is here:

http://stevespages.com/xls/load_selector.xls



A sample of the sheet configuring the first firing here:

http://stevespages.com/xls/load_selector_22-250_52_h380.xls



And an example of what the spreadsheet will select as suggested second loadings is here:

http://stevespages.com/xls/load_selector_22-250_52_h380_2.xls



You get the idea?
 
Posts: 3282 | Location: Saint Marie, Montana | Registered: 22 May 2002Reply With Quote
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I would add the following to some of the good advice given already. You really need several reloading manuals to refer to. At first they may confuse you because there are so many inconsistencies. But that is the point, results are variable even amongst the so called pros.

A year or two ago I got into trouble with a 300 Win Mag. I looked in the Nosler manual and choose the lightest load of a powder and loaded up several pairs of loads using different makes (same bullet weight). When I went to the range I found that I could barely open the bolt on these light loads. Searching the manual, I found that what was a minimum load in the Nosler was a max load in the Hornady.

I tried a "factory" load and had no pressure problem and decided the problem was the powder. I switched powders and no problem. The point is that as a "new" reloader, go slow, go carefully, keep a record book of what you do with each caliber you reload for, compare manuals for different charges to be sure they are likely to be safe starting points. Above all, check any loads you get of the internet because they could be reckless, mistakes in typing, differences in free-bore or lack thereof and a myriad of other problems. Don't fret. Just be careful.
 
Posts: 58 | Location: Plain City, Ohio, USA | Registered: 07 July 2002Reply With Quote
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Hey guys, another newbie question. I am new to reloading and trying to work up my first load. Here are the specs:

30'06
165 Speer BT
IMR 4350

I see in the book the low range of powder is 54gr, and the high is 58.

I was going to work up a load of 5 rounds each. Should I just do something like 5 loaded at 54, 55, 56, 57, and 58 for 25 rounds total? Or should I use half grain increments? Do I need to start at the minimum of 54? It says with 54 you are only getting out 2400fps which seems really slow compared to factory.

Sorry for all the dumb questions. I just want to shoot groups of 5 shots to see what groups best then stick with that load.
 
Posts: 525 | Registered: 21 December 2002Reply With Quote
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... The absolute single best piece of advice I can give you as you get into reloading is this, BUY A CHRONOGRAPH!!
...
...VELOCITY = PRESSURE...




Hey dog, As kindly as I can say this, I totally disagree with the above from Kevin.

A chronograph only tells you how fast an object going over the Start/Stop screens makes that transition. The best way to think of it is that Velocity has absolutely ZERO corelation to Pressure. Otherwise, it is easily possible "for a beginner"(and some who think they aren't beginners) to be mislead by a chronograph. This can result in a Velocity that looks like the Load is SAFE when in fact it might not be.

This is easily seen by opening a Hodgdon Manual to just about any page and taking a look. You will quickly see where you can get approximately the same Velocity with High, Medium and Low Pressure Loads for different Powders with the same Bullet weight. Your 165gr bullet in a 30-06 is one of the best examples.

Same is true for different Lots of the same Powder, but this is much better than it used to be.

I've had access to a good many chronographs over the years and at one time thought they were excellent tools. Since then I've had enough different rifles of the same caliber to know how bad a chronograph can "mislead" a person. Due to the "dimensional tolerances" found in the Chamber, Bore, Case and Bullet, plus Lot-to-Lot differences in Primers and Powder, variations are inevitable in the Velocity to Pressure relationship. Just because "the Manual" says you can get 2850fps using 5x.x gr of Powder and be at a SAFE MAX Pressure dosen't mean "your rifle" will have that same Pressure at that same Velocity.

That is one of the most difficult concepts for "some" chronograph owners to understand.

...

So, my recommendation is for you to learn all about the various Pressure Indicators and watch them closely as you develop your Loads. The Case is the "weak link" in the firing process. Pay particular attention to what Pressure Signs you can get from them.

Once you determine what the SAFE MAX Load is for your rifle, shoot that Load at the distances you intend to take shots at game. Then develop your "Drop Chart" based on your trajectory, not some computer generated trajectory model.
 
Posts: 9920 | Location: Carolinas, USA | Registered: 22 April 2001Reply With Quote
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Just my 2 cents...
A chronograph is key not for checking pressure but for checking velocity. Once you know the actual velocity your load is giving, you can start working on ballistics. A handy program that I use is from Barnes and is available for downloading on their website. As I recall it costs under $50. Also do not try to get the absolute most velocity out of your loads. Go for accuracy. Going for high velocity is a good way to screw up guns and can be unsafe as well.
Welcome to the fraternity!
Russ
 
Posts: 3830 | Location: Cave Creek, AZ | Registered: 09 August 2001Reply With Quote
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Picture of fredj338
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Blacktail, well yes & no. Vel. does have a relationship to pressures. You are not going to get high vel. w/o higher pressure, all things being equal in the same cartridge.

As far as loading for accuracy, yes accuracy is great but if you buy a, say .300winmag & your sub moa load is at .308wcf vel., but you can get magnum vel. @ 1.25moa, which would you shoot? Right tool for the job & all that sort of rot. W/O bringing up the SMK debate again, you can often get great accuracy w/ a target bullet & just good accuracy w/ a hunting bullet, again right tool. Accuracy isn't always the final word, it's a balancing act.

Hotcore, the chrono can be helpful in seeing trends & deviations. If my vel. isn't going up in a linear fashion as I increase powder, but pressure looks ok, it may be time to stop where I am. I also like to know what my actual vel. is not guess, & that's what you do by looking @ published data.
 
Posts: 7752 | Location: kalif.,usa | Registered: 08 March 2001Reply With Quote
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Hey guys, thanks for all the great info! Aprreciate it. I do not know anyone in real life that handloads so i am getting all my info from you guys and books.
 
Posts: 525 | Registered: 21 December 2002Reply With Quote
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Hey guys, I think something is wrong with the data I have been reading.

According to my Speer book, an '06 with a 22" barrel, loaded with 54grs of IMR4350 and a 165 bullet is flying at 2476fps. (seems slow).

Then according to the same book, a 180gr bullet with 52grs is flying at 2497fps.

How can the 180 be flying faster out of the same gun when it weighs more and is using less powder?

Then the Hornady book says that with their 165 gr bullet and IMR4350 at only 48grs is flying at 2400fps.

How can there be that much of a variance in speed with such a large variance in powder weights, especially because bullet design shouldn't really matter yet since it is a muzzle velocity???
 
Posts: 525 | Registered: 21 December 2002Reply With Quote
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Picture of WyoJoe
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Sorry for all the dumb questions. I just want to shoot groups of 5 shots to see what groups best then stick with that load.




dg223,
There is no such thing as a dumb question when you are seriously trying to learn. I think you will learn to really like it. I know I enjoy reloading. Well, actually not the process but the end result. EVERY head of big game that I have shot has been done with a handload.

First let me say "ADHERE TO WHAT IS IN THE BOOK VERY CAREFULLY". You are on the right track by starting with the minimum load in the book. Sounds like you have a good plan by going up in one grain increments. DO NOT EXCEED WHAT THE BOOK CALLS FOR!!!! Don't try just one 5 shot group and call that good. Try five shots of each load. When one looks good go back and load another 15 - 20 or that load and confirm that is what your gun likes. If none of those loads are real good you will probably have a good idea of which one is best. Try .5 gr. above (assuming it is not the top load in the book) and below. If that still is not giving you the accuracy you want there are other things you can do like varying components. Remember only change one component at a time and EVERY time you change a component start with the starting load in the book. If you are getting in the ball park with your first loads you can also vary your seating depth. That will affect your accuracy. Let us know how things work out for you.
 
Posts: 1172 | Location: Cheyenne, WY | Registered: 15 March 2001Reply With Quote
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