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How To Kill A Primer
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Jim,

I am not sure I have Kroil.
But, I will try other liquids as well.

T he surprising fact is, the RWS primers do not look like they have any lacquer on them.

I might get Walter to dis-assemble one or two of them to see. This is the sort of thing he is very good at.

He is out of the country until the 20th.


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Posts: 66940 | Location: Dubai, UAE | Registered: 08 January 1998Reply With Quote
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Saeed
Next time you order gunsmithing gear or parts, or reloading components order a can of the stuff, Kroil.
It's great for lossening stuck screws, parts, etc.
One can per life time is all you'll need.

Jim


"Whensoever the General Government assumes undelegated powers, its acts are unauthoritative, void, and of no force." --Thomas Jefferson

 
Posts: 6173 | Location: Richmond, Virginia | Registered: 17 September 2000Reply With Quote
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48 hours later.

1. Hoppe's \lubricsting oil - RWS, fired normall. Federal 210M, dead
2. Hoppe's Elite Cleaner - RWS, dead. Federal 210M, dead
3. Hoppe's #9 - RWS, fired normally. Federal 210M, dead.
4. Birchwood Casey Scrubber - RWS, fired normally. FFederal 210m, fired normally.
5. Sea water - RWS, dead. Federal 210m, fired normally.

Now, I have to qualify what I mentioned above about "fired normally" as I am not sure the primer would have egnited the powder charge.

I could definitely hear a bang, and see smoke as I eject the case out. But, it is much less than a normal primed case.


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Posts: 66940 | Location: Dubai, UAE | Registered: 08 January 1998Reply With Quote
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I belive the best way to kill a primer is to shoot it.. BOOM
 
Posts: 10135 | Location: Tooele, Ut | Registered: 27 September 2001Reply With Quote
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Saeed
I took the liberty of cross linking this thread to the cartridge collector forum, where the same topic had come up.
Please note the comments made on that thread by "Doc AV", and the usage of "Acetic Acid" / White Vinegar for deactivating primers.
http://iaaforum.org/forum3/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=11395
 
Posts: 2124 | Location: Whittemore, MI, USA | Registered: 07 March 2002Reply With Quote
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Well, here is todays update.

72 hours after being soaked.

Ingedients as numbered above.

1. RWS Fired. Federal, dead.
2. RWS, dead. Federal, dead
3. RWS Fired. Federal, dead
4. RWS, fired. Federal fired.
5. RWS, fired. Federal dead.

Number 4 above with Birchwood casey, the liquid must have evaporated, as both primers went off with almost full force.

May be this is something we should bear in mind.

Tailgunner, thank you for the link. We are always glad to share our experiences with other shooters.

I will get some vinegar, and try that too.

I will let you all know how it goes.


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Posts: 66940 | Location: Dubai, UAE | Registered: 08 January 1998Reply With Quote
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Saeed,
I have this big pile of horse manure in my pasture, about 12 foot high, and I have killed many primer by shooting into that pile..works every time! but if we have some city boys around they will have to figure out another way..pull the bullets, the powder and boom in the garage..shoot the neighbors that complain! jumping


Ray Atkinson
Atkinson Hunting Adventures
10 Ward Lane,
Filer, Idaho, 83328
208-731-4120

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Posts: 41833 | Location: Twin Falls, Idaho | Registered: 04 June 2000Reply With Quote
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A thought:
Maybe 'killing' the primer is the wrong approach. When I think of killing it I think of something that would chemically react with the primer and render it inert. Maybe just a really good solvent that would dissolve the lacquer, compound, etc. and then flush it out of the primer is in order. I would think acetone would be a good place to start, or even nail polish remover, toluene, etc. Maybe soak with some agitation as the little bit that makes it into the pocket would quickly become saturated. May want to be careful with the used solvent though.
C.G.B.
 
Posts: 1094 | Registered: 25 January 2005Reply With Quote
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MEK
 
Posts: 1073 | Registered: 10 December 2006Reply With Quote
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Rethinking this one (always bad).
If you do manage to dissolve the compound the solution now contains (assuming lead based compound) a lead salt in solution, which can be really bad for your health and is probably easily adsorbed thru the skin.
Wikki says lead azide can be killed with ammonium acetate and lead styphnate can be killed with sodium carbonate.
All this would seem to be hardly worth the effort.
C.G.B.
C.G.B.
 
Posts: 1094 | Registered: 25 January 2005Reply With Quote
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I have been following this thread from the start. About a week ago I remembered that some time in the 1970's (call it 25+ years ago) (before I learned I could reclaim primers for use in a different case) I had dropped severel primers into a little bottle along with a light oil (don't recall what kind). So I went out to my shed and dug around until I found them, dumped out a sticky mess of primers and (now) really thick oil, wiped them off on a paper towel and set them on my reloading bench. Now, a week later, one at a time I loaded three of them into an old 30-30 case and ran them through the rifle. The first--no noise but when I extracted the case there was a wisp or two of smoke inside the case. The second--same thing. The third--produced a mild "pop" and the same type of smoke when I removed the case from the rifle! SO--while I will accept that primers MAY be killable--I will always consider that an unfired primer is NEVER dead--just to be safe! Have a great day.
 
Posts: 167 | Location: Kamloops British Columbia Canada | Registered: 19 January 2006Reply With Quote
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