I just traded for a 35 Brown Whelen and i am looking for any info I can find about this caliber. I really need relaoding data, dies source, case specifications, chamber dimensions, history, etc...

Any info at all would be a big help.

From Ackley's Handbook for Shooters and Reloaders:

220 bullet 70gr IMR4320 = 2900fps
250 " 71gr IMR4350 = 2700fps
300 " 68gr IMR4350 = 2525fps

I stole this from Z-hat. More or less like a Gibbs. less taper, shoulder moved forward. My bet would be to make a chamber case.

Its forebear, the .35 Brown-Whelen, dates to 1967, when JGS Precision Tool Mfg. of Coos Bay, Oregon, manufactured a reamer patterned from a case supplied by Keith Stegall. Apparently C. Norman Brown of Anchorage, Alaska, came up with the dimensions. The Brown-Whelen hasn't been very popular, partly because it looks like a cartridge for thickets when current headlines play to the quick medium-bores. A complicated case-forming procedure doesn't help its standing either. You must first expand a .30-06 neck to .375 or .400 inch, then neck it back down to .358 to establish the proper shoulder and fireform. An alternative is to neck the case up to .358 inch, then seat bullets hard against the lands to maintain proper headspace dulling fire-forming. Neither procedure is all that difficult, but both can seem a lot of trouble to shooters not familiar or comfortable with wildcatting.

Handloader No.187 carried a feature article on the .35 Brown-Whelen. In it, author Richard Conrad wrote that he could not duplicate with his rifle the performance that P.O. Ackley ascribed to this cartridge. According to Richard, Ackley claimed 2,900 fps from a 220grain bullet in front of 70 grains of IMR-4320, 2,700 fps from a 250-grain bullet ldcked along by 71 grains of 1MR4350 and 2,595 fps with a 300-grain round nose and 68 grains of 1MR4350. The Brown-Whelen case will not readily accommodate 70 grains of stick powder and a long bullet!

I have heard others speak of the 35 Brown-Whelen case as being "complicated" to form, but I don't feel it has to be difficult at all.

I have formed similar cases (with the shoulder moved forward), and had good luck.

I recommend starting with once fired 30-06 brass, segregated by headstamp. The once fired cases are cheap, and they already have a little bit of work-hardening on the neck.

With the spent primer removed I anneal the case by using a Benzomatic torch, with the case standing upright in a pan of water (and the water comes just slightly more than halfway up the case). I can do 10 or so cases in one pan, and tip them over in the water as soon as the neck heats up.

Measure the volume of Unique powder a case will hold, and divide it by 10 (10%). With a standard primer, put the 10% volume of Unique in the case, fill over that with uncooked grits, and put a wax (parrifin) plug on the case mouth to hold everything in place.

One tip...fire this case right away to make sure your charge is strong enough to create the new shoulder. Once I filled about 50 cases just like this, and found I need about 5 extra grains of Unique to make the shoulder more crisp. I then had to un-make all the cases I had just prepared.

Chamber the Unique/grits round and fire...you should get a very decent case to start with. Like I mentioned, if you need to, you can add a few grains of Unique at a time until you get the shoulder you are looking for.
A few cases will split at the neck during forming....no big deal, just throw them away.

Now you can either start using the brass as is, or if you want, you can load it with cheap jacketed .357 bullets and use a full power load to bring the brass to its final dimensions.

The other alternative (which is more expensive, but definetly faster) is to by cylindrical 30-06 brass from Buffalo Arms. It's 90 cents per case, with discounts for buying in lots of 50 or more. With the cylindrical brass you can just run it through the sizing die and shoot the pistol bullets.

100 cases will last beyond your lifetime.

Garrett