I am taking down some 30-06, headstamped EW 43.
I am having trouble de-priming due to the military crimp. The de-capping pin has pushed completely through a couple of primers. Any suggestions?
Also are these tracers? The Bullets are black tipped and weigh 164 gr. and are very long for their weight.
They feel light in the front just handling them.
I am planning on making some 7 & 8 mm Mauser brass from them.

Black was armor piercing, there's a case hardened steel core under the jacket.

There is no magic way to decap them, if they won't go out you'll have to toss the cases but the salvaged cases you do get will be fine for use. They will be fine for reforming, I've made everything from .270 down to .22-250 from the same vintage.

Use a Lee hand punch. It will remove any Boxer primer. If you have any primers that punch through I would be really surprised. If you get those use a Berdan tool or ice pick to peel the old primer out. I would not expect you to get any more punch throughs with the hand tool.

I also use the lee punch tool and prefer it to other methods. Be sure to cut or swage the primer pocket crimp or you will have a hard time trying to prime them. Hands down the Dillon super swager is the best. If you do not have many then the hand held(or drill) cutter will do. What are you going to do with the pulled bullets? I would be interested in them. How many? I will prep your brass for some of the bullets.

I tried the Lee hand punch but since I only have punches from a 30-06 & 30-30 set at the moment,
the .308"+ punch won't go through the (un-fired) necks. Just now realized I should re-arrange my procedure and de-cap after I run the necks over the 8mm expander ball. And maybe the F-L die de-capper rod will take care of it on the first try.
I need to get a smaller diameter punch for future 7mm cases to save a step.
On the de-primed cases, I just use a Lee or RCBS chamfer tool and remove the bulk of the crimp and follow up with a Lyman pocket uniformer. No problems there.

I would like to keep the bullets for some plinking down the road.

I will have to destroy one of these bullets to see how they are constructed. I tried a magnet on the front, it wouldn't stick. Didn't try it at the base though.
They are noticably heavier towards the base and are relatively long for 164 grains.

Probably tungsten rather than steel core.

DON"T deprime them if you are driving a pin thru them... they will go BANG..
Pull the bullets and throw the cases away

throw the armor piercers down range, safely
( they DO have a tungsten carbide core that will punch through 1/2 CR steel at 50 yards...
I used to have one captured in steel shat at 75 or so... the tip was exsposed on the back side and sharp as a tack! a ball round next to it just cratered the plate.)

A sturdy deprimer will do the trick but you will need to cut the primer crimp out. to reuse

I suspect you may find a collector who would be interested in trading you some headstamped mauser brass for them. Or at least some newer '06 brass.

A long time ago I tried to resize some GI brass of that vintage to 6.5 Arisaka and was unable to get enough oomph on a Rockchucker to do it in any sort of reliable way.

quote:

Originally posted by Mark:
I suspect you may find a collector who would be interested in trading you some headstamped mauser brass for them. Or at least some newer '06 brass.

A long time ago I tried to resize some GI brass of that vintage to 6.5 Arisaka and was unable to get enough oomph on a Rockchucker to do it in any sort of reliable way.

Mark, I am using a Redding trim/form die first for the 8X57 and didn't have any problems. Just a small wrinkle on a couple shoulders. I think those will shoot out OK.
They all went into a F-L die just fine.
Don't have a trim die for the 7mm yet.
The holes that were punched through the primers were big enough both top and bottom that the primers couldn't have gone poof much less bang so I drilled them out just big enough to pry them out.
Will be going a different route to avoid that in the future.