1st thing, When I purchase my die sets. I have been told I only need neck sizing dies since all of the brass I have has been shot in my rifles.

But then I was told different that I should go with full length when first starting to reload?

Another thing, to crimp or not to crimp? I have not been given clear information on crimping rifle bullets? my only semi-auto rifle is a SKS and I onyl shoot surplus cheap steel ammo out of it, the rest of my rifles are bolt action. except for my 2 lever action gun a 30-30 and 450 Marlin.

I know im going to need to crimp my 450 Marlin rounds cause its a straight walled brass and is basically a large pistol cartridge. So basically reloading it is going to be a 3 die set cause it will need to be flared and then crimped.

neck size as long as you do not mix brass from diffrent guns same caliber. less work on the brass the longer it should last.
My rule of thumb for crimping is a heavy recoil rifle needs crimp I have had the bullets seat them self deeper du to recoil. streight wallcases as you suggest. with bolt guns as long aS yuo have sufficient bullet grip they do not need crimped. some slow burning powders need crimp to help the burn and pressure
Dave

Mixing brass will not be a problem, I only have 1 rifle of each caliber except for rimfire.

So since my 308 is a light weight gun and kicks like a pissed off mule I should consider crimping the rounds?

If your just starting to reload, I'd suggest you get standard dies. Standard die sets can be used for partial full length sizing which is similar to neck sizing.

Learn more about PFLR:

http://forums.accuratereloadin...&forum_scope=2511043

So am I reading this correctly?

PFLR uses the same die set as a FL set, except you set the die shallow per say so it only resizes part of the brass? And the bottom half of the brass will basically never be touched by the resizing die. But of course this takes a little more prep work while setting up the die in the press. Cause you need to set the die roughly and then try it in the rifle chamber and see if the bolt will close with a snug fit. if not you adjust the die placement until you get the correct fit as described in the thread.

Your figuring on PFLS is correct.
I neck size as much as I can, but at least one of my rifles (7mm rem mag) will only go about 2 loadings and then I have to FLR again, or they won't chamber. When hunting Dangerous Game, you will always want to FLS, and a lot of guys FLS all of their hunting ammo, just to be damned sure that everything chambers easily just in case you have to make a fast follow-up shot. Bottom line, for most of us, a FLS die, while not needed all the time, is still fairly essential.

As to the crimping, that can be a can o'worms. Like you've been told, safety is the primary concern (lever actions, strait walled, hard kickers, etc.), but in some cases crimping can also affect accuracy for better or worse. Unless it is needed for safety, crimping, like seating depth in general, is just another thing you can play around with for each rifle/bullet/powder combination.

quote:

Originally posted by Brando:
Cause you need to set the die roughly and then try it in the rifle chamber and see if the bolt will close with a snug fit.

FWIW I always check the sized cases and then the finished rounds in the firearm when I set up the dies, etc. Also, I run every hunting cartridge through the mag and chamber to make sure there are no hiccups in the field.

Cool, so definately im going to be buying FL die sets. as most of my rifles are hunting rifles of some kind. So smooth cycling through the magazine and chamber are a must.

Just a few year ago my little brother was charged by a wound black bear. thankfully he was ready and dropped the bear before it got hold of him.

Crimper is probably going to be a must for my 308. The thing loaded with 4+1 and the mounted scope only weighs 6 1/2 lbs. So its had quite a sharp kick.

But I think everything else will be fine, my 7mm is a sendero model remington and has heavt steel rings and a heavy Konus scope. with the Muzzle break its a 10lb rifle without a single round of ammo.

YOu might find that the first couple of times your resize the brass that even without touching the shoulder the case will not be a snug fit as you close the bolt.

On new brass and setting up my die on the first firing I take a marker an mark the neck then set the die so that it stops just short of the shoulder neck junction. Once my brass has grown I will set the die to allow me light contact when closing. Then once the die is set for that rifle I us the same setting for new brass.

Works fine if you only have one rifle per caliber. If I have two I set the die for the shortest shoulder then make a shim to use when I need to lift the die away from the holder for a slightly longer chamber.

I seriously doubt you will need to crimp a 308 unless your dies don't give you good neck tension. I had a 7# 338wmag that needed no crimp. It is more likely on large heavy bullets because they tend to want to stay put as the rifle goes backwards.

I would try the 308 without the crimp first. I would be surprised if you don't have enough bullet in the neck, and enough neck tension with standard dies in a standard hunting rifle to have the bullets sit still during recoil.

Crimping bottleneck rifle cases (especially smallish calbers) is completely unnecessary and just introduces yet another variable in your process that you will have to manage consistently.

My 308 weighs 7 lbs with a scope, and I don't have any trouble with bullets moving in the necks, up to the 180 gr partitions that I load (heaviest load in that rifle).

Oh, and I always full length resize all of my hunting ammo.

I will probably be shooting Accubond 165 out of my 308...I really like pass thurs and dropping animals in there tracks.

But with my 7mm its mainly a long range rifle so the PFL sizing will work great for it.

But I figure with my 308 brass and future 500AR it will always be full length anyways, they are pretty much full time hunting rifles.

Thanks for the guidance once again guys.

Brando;


Good caliber, good choice of bullet!

I set all my FL dies so they very lightly bump the shoulder during sizing. This sets the brass to just smaller than minimum chamber dimensions, and (I fondly hope!) provides reliable chambering,(so far, so good!) as well as better cartridge support in the chamber.

Usually, under average conditions, just neck tension is enough for bullet retention, although in one of his books, Peter H. Capstick told of a situation where he had done a couple of fast reloads, before shooting his magazine dry, as he was involved in cropping elephants, iirc.

He theorized that the last cartridge, which had been in the magazine through maybe 9-12 firings, had been hammered back into the case by recoil, causing higher pressure, and the loud report and heavier recoil he experienced.

Cannelured bullets are designed for crimping, like in tube magazine guns, like the Winchester or Marlin 30-30s. But, as a downside, there is only small adjustment in cartridge OAL, when using the cannelure.

I have a Lee crimp die, that I used just once...very lightly...to take the flare out of my cast loads' case mouths. The groups opened up amazingly! I never could see that denting the bullet like the Lee ads show could do anything good for accuacy, but, some guys swear by 'em.
If you think you need more neck tension, take the expander out of your die, and chuck it in a drill, using ohhhhh...~400 grit wet or dry paper, and polish it. Easy does it! You can't put it back, once it is gone. It will operate smoother.

Sorry for the length, but I do tend to tell people how to build the whole bicycle, when all they want is to know how to change a tire! Good luck!
What do you hunt in Korea? (4-legged, I mean!)