I've been reloading since the mid 1980s and I've been very happy with the results...until now.

I'm not getting the velocity I want out of my 338 Win Mag. So, it occurred to me I might be too conservative in how I determine a max load. Here's what I've been doing:

I work up the load by increasing powder charges in one grain increments while watching the chronograph and comparing my velocity to book velocity.

Once I start experiencing sticky extraction/ejection, burnished case heads or faint ejector marks on the case head, I call that a max load and back off by one grain.

Does that seem like a reasonable approach to you my fellow reloaders? If not, how do you do it?

sep,

Due to your location I hope you're using temperature insensitive powders ..... I could imagine if you shoot your loads elsewhere in milder (read=warmer) climates you'd be a tad on the "warm" side.



I consider our level of reloading experience similar ..... but my opinion is you're already reached critical limits using your maximum load criteria even when you back-off 1 grain.

I've an extensive library of books, references, software and a Chronograph. My usual is to research the cartridge, understand the parameters I'm working with, average all the references, reduce by 5% and start from there; in larger cartridges at the upper end of development I use .5 gr. increments and in smaller cases even .2 or .3 gr. When we play with our 22 Hornets a .1 gr. increment at the upper end may determine success or failure of expected accuracy.

Of course every rifle/load is a Law-unto-Itself and it may be your .338 Win Mag just isn't gonna cooperate with your velocity expectations as there are too many variables involved - had that happen before many times with certain rifles (a brand-new .30/06 Sprg. Steyr-Mannlicher pops straight to mind, the load used in 3 other '06's I was shooting at the time required the bolt of the S-M to be hammered open after the initial shot) while other rifles easily exceeded reliability, accuracy & velocity expectations almost from the Get-Go.

The upper end of my rifle battery are two 375H&H's and two 9.3x62's. All four rifles are shooting less than much touted higher(er) or upper level velocities claimed by others (I'm still in the Ball Park when compared to references +/-) and cleanly take Game with the loads I've developed for them. I DO NOT suffer from an inferiority complex when using any of the rifles.

Having said that, a .338 Win Mag is a powerful cartridge capable of superior Alaskan (read=Global) Game taking performance and I wouldn't be overly concerned about chasing the # of Fairies on the head of a Pin in obtaining the last incremental fps with pretty much any reputable brand name bullet.

My criteria for Big Game loads are:

1. 100% reliability, NO feeding issues, chambering issues, neck-sizing, w/appropriate O.A.L. chamber/magazine fit, etc.
2. Accuracy, w/modern componets I can easily obtain <1" with all my barrels, loads & w/the apprpopriate weight bullet for the task at hand.
3. Power = the terminal performance at expected Game taking distance(s) for clean kills.

Good Luck with your .338 Win Mag and your endevour to obtain a coupla more fps.

"Does that seem like a reasonable approach to you my fellow reloaders? "

It looks correct to me.

Your procedure will work, especially if you Re-read Gerry's comment about difference responses to a given load when you change rifles.
A max load in one rifle may be OVERMAX in another. I've been reloading since Eisenhower was President. Granted, I was a kid, helping my Dad...but even then I was picking up education and commentary.
I've only strove to find a truly max. load for one of my rifles, one time in all those years. It worked out fine, and I took a bunch of animals with a Rem.700 pushing a 200 gn Sierra at nearly 300 mag. performance. Overall...I've always been pleased with enough of a load to cleanly take whatever critter I'm crafting it for...without going to max levels. If I need more power...I change calibers.

Reasonable, with one missing step -- re-evaluate! Always be ready to back further down if brass life seems short, hot days make a difference, lot-to-lot values vary, ...

NEVER try a max load derived for one weapon in another of identical caliber without working up (as already covered above).

Thanks guys I appreciate the responses. I'm shooting 225 grain TTSXs and would like to get 2800 fps with a temperature stable powder but it doesn't appear to be likely with this rifle. My old 338 was a Browning with a 26 inch barrel and would easily push 2825 fps with no pressure signs whatsoever. This rifle with its 24 inch barrel loses 120 fps to the other one with the exact same load. I settled on an accuracy load one grain higher and it clocks in at 2720ish with no pressure signs at all.

As to continued evaluation of the chosen load, I do watch for continuing pressure signs and if I see any I would back off the charge weight even further. I've tried 4 powders with this rifle and none of em have matched the book velocity at a max load. The worst is H4831. The max book load is 71.0 grains. I worked up to 75.0 with really good accuracy, no pressure signs but velocity is still 2720ish. Guess I got spoiled by the 26 inch barrel and the fact Barnes VOR-TX factory loads clock over 2800 fps in this rifle. Barnes says it is a powder which approximates the 4350s in burn rate but they recommended H4831 as the best temperature stable powder for this cartridge and weight, although their latest reloading manual doesn't even list H4831 load data.

I'm reluctant to shove 75.0 grains into the case although my bullet seating depth is 100thousandths less than Barnes recommended depth. I'm seating these bullets 50 thousandths from the lands. So, I do have more room in the case for powder. I guess I could always load a few rounds up, measure em, let em sit for a few days or weeks and measure em again to see if the compressed charge is pushing the bullet out. I certainly don't need that in the field. Thanks again for the info.

Basically my approach

That's the way I've been doing it since 1979 or 80, 'cept the Chrony didn't show up till much later in life.

I back off more than you and in many cases don't load that hot to begin with. Many of the cartridges I load are used in multiple rifles. I only want to work the load up once for the most part. These loads must be mild enough to work in all rifles with all lot variations of primer, powder, case and bullet.

For rifles that are one of a kind calibers I load them to approximate factory ammo for pressure indications and live with it as long as the accuracy is at a high level.

Having a chronograph is the key 99% of the time.

If you have a modern rifle that all is well with and your velocity equals that of the maximum published load for the bullet. powder and primer you are using, it is time to quit.

If you are treading new ground, like my 80 gr TTSX load in the 25-06 with Hornady SuperPerformance in a 30" 1885 Browning, and there are no loads out there, it's time to revert to the old high pressure signs. When I got to 4000+ fps extraction (high walls are less "extractive" than a bolt gun) got a bit stiff and I backed it down to 3997 fps. Cases fell out and lasted at least 5 reloads.

An interesting aside, relative to the 1885 Brownings with their rebounding firing pins, is that primers mean nothing. With no firing pin sping to hold them against the primer (as in a bolt gun), they flattened out so they almost looked unfired.

quote:

I wouldn't be overly concerned about chasing the # of Fairies on the head of a Pin in obtaining the last incremental fps with pretty much any reputable brand name bullet.

+1.
Also when I am working up to a max load I do not increase by 1 grain increments even with a large capacity case. With anything from -06 and up I increase by one half grain. With anything smaller I work up by .2 grain.
But then I hardly ever get to a load where I need to "back-off".

More good info. Thanks guys...I really appreciate the insight.

The load I've been using is 1 grain over the book max but the velocity is clocking in at about 30fps below the book max. I've not seen any pressure signs with this load so I'm confident it's safe. Still wish I could get more velocity with temperature stable powders though.

I think your approach is ok but you may need to come back down more than 1 gr. Case life has never been great in my .338 but would think you should get 5 or more loadings from new cases. What I have found is that in some of my rifles the most accurate load is usually a few gr. below max. BTW my old M70 does not like Nosler 225's at any speed.
C.G.B.

You are definitely NOT being TOO conservative. If you are looking for more energy and think you need it maybe you need a "new" large .358.Be glad to let you use my .358 X .404 IMP reamer. roger

If the extra velocity is important, take a look at some different powders Hunter and RL-17 would likely give you better velocities.