actual content of inner case neck lube ?

Other than the dry powder lube, has anyone
figured out what the lube is that goes
on wet and then dries so as to not contaminate
the powder in the cartridge ?

lanolin

many use lanolin, like Butch said. They also use Isopropyl Alcohol.

I'm not trying to jack this thread but let me tell you what I do. And I've done it for years and years. I use a stamp pad and RCBS case lube. I roll the cases on it and as I take up each case to resize, I stand it up and press the neck of the case into the pad like I'm trying to cut a little doughnut out of the pad. This put just a trace of lube on the inside lip of the case neck. I then resize and toss the case into the tumbler. I do not tumble for shiney; I tumble to clean the lube off the case. Sometimes as little as 20-25 minutes. That, of course, cleans the inside of the case also. In all my years of doing it that way, I've never had a miss fire, hang fire, etc.
I know some of the folks use Q-tips with oil and follow up with brake fluid and all sorts of stuff but this works.

No I cant possibly imagine Lanolin on the
inside neck to seat the bullets with.
There is oil in Lanolin of course and
that could screw with your gunpowder.
It's gotta be wax or graphite or soap
or moly flakes etc. It cannot be oil.

Mica is what it is.

You can lube the inside of case necks? Who'da thunk it? I've never done that. I just run a bore brush for .357 into the mouths of my 300WSM brass and spin 'em a few times on my hand-powered case lathe. I use Hornady Case Lube for some sizing. It's pure beeswax. Don't waste your time on One-Sh!t. It's crap. The beeswax stuff does not hurt the powder. One-Sh!t used to work really well until it got "californicated-up." I guess some idiot environmental bureaucrat thought making rats breathe a 98% concentration of it for 5000 years might give the poor rats lung cancer or something, so they changed the formulation and now it doesn't work for sh?t. But we ain't talkin' about outside lubes, are we? Mica has been used for inside lube, I have used beeswax once or twice for my "good" ammo, and never lube my .223Rem plinkin' ammo. Choose your own path. Be happy with your choice...

You can use graphite which is really messy or "white graphite" which is really fine groud mica. All others will contaminate, despite manufacturer's carefully phased claims to the contary.

Redding makes a "no mess" graphiter, Forster makes a graphiter. Frankford Arsenal used to seel mica. They probably still do. Because I was given the products to test some years ago, I use the mix of 1/3 graphite to 2/3 mica with the Forster graphiter. I don't have some old biddy looking over my shoulder and compaining about the mess..........make your own choice.

I wipe a Q-tip lightly across the surface of Imperial sizing wax, then swirl the Q-tip on to the inside of the case neck for about half the neck length. One wipe across the wax does all the cases in my usual batch(40).

I use the same method as Greenjoy and have used Sno Seal as an alternative, 100% beeswax. It's sold as a water proofing for boots but does the same thing that Imperial does.

Stepchild

Zip pity Zap swiftly down the bore cleaner than than Mr. Clean himself . hBN

Case neck OK ; Q tip and swab lightly with hBN clean neat no BSing around .


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quote:

...Sno-Seal as an alternative, 100% beeswax.

I was going to throw that in , but I forgot. Sno-Seal is good and cheap. Because it has no firearms affiliation, it costs less than an equal amount of Hornady Case Lube...

Sno Seal eh? Learn something new every day. Even have a can.

I was useing the Q-tip method with RBCBs lube and drape a piece of cotton t-shirt over a mop and cram it in the case to wipe it out afterwards

I used to do the cram the neck in the rcbs pad method but that chewed up my pad

Will the snow seal contaminate the powder or not?