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I had an annealing tip for my torch until a friend "borrowed" it and never returned. That was over four years ago. Since this time I must have annealed over 800+ cases. If you don�t properly anneal you will have either wasted your time or wasted your brass. Too cool and you have done nothing, too hot and you have over softened your brass. It�s just like cooking a steak. I anneal in a dark room (not pitch black). As soon as the blue wash appears on the brass and it reaches a dull glow, it is as hot as you need it. Toss it into a bucket of water and you are done. With larger cases (most of mine are) you can hold the base of the case with your fingers and rotate the case in the blue tip of the flame. The trick is to heat quickly and cool quickly. There is nothing to annealing properly. Practice on a few junk cases and use a pair of plyers on the mouth of the case to gauge what annealed brass feels like. | |||
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<bigcountry> |
Thanks as always for the advise. I just wish I had someone to show me the first time. I annealed some a while back, but basically heated them up red hot and drenched them. Really think I was wasting my time. I will look for this blue wash. I must be color blind. I don't notice what you are talking about. | ||
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BC - If you get them "red" hot, it's probably too hot. You might want to try the temp stick approach. Temp sticks are designed to melt at a specific temperature threshold. Your local welding supply house will have this sorta stuff. Some are crayons and some are paint on. The crayons do not leave a sufficient mark on brass in my experience. The paint on types seem to work better from what I have been told. The target temperature you are looking for is 670+ degrees F. The temp sticks have a melting range that is +/- 20 degrees so pick an indicator which allows you to consistently hit 670+. I believe you can reach 700 degrees without over-softening, so you do have some leeway. | |||
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