Hi guys been researching forever trying to come up what I need/ want to start my reloading. I was hoping to get advice on what you guys think I may have missed or may not need and a couple questions at the bottom.

PRESS: RCBS rockchucker single stage master kit
DIES: Lee deluxe 3 die set(then get hornady clamp type split lock nuts)

Shellholders: RCBS #3(to wrk w/ rcbs hand primer

Case Tumbler: Cabelas case tumbler kit

Caliper: any none digital

Bullet Puller: Cabelas brand

Reloading labels:any form wherever

Ammo Boxes: any from wherever

RCBS uniflow powder baffle

Of course bullets, brass, primers and powder.

OK my questions, first whats a good case trimmer, not the very best or most expensive, but gets the job done.

Next question, what is the function of a precision micrometer(RCBS for instance) and do I need one? If so is RCBS a good one( or do I have to get it to go with the kit?

Thanks for taking the time to look over my list and comment I appreciate it. God Bless.

The more RCBS stuff you buy now, the better. Anything RCBS makes is pretty well a free replacement if you break it.

I like the Redding case trimmer.

Get a decent dial caliper. You will just have to get it at some point anyway if you start out with a cheap one.

Get a powder trickler off ebay.

You will need media for the case tumbler.

You can do without a micrometer if you have a decent caliper.

Get an extra tray for holding shells.

Buy at least one extra shell holder because you will misplace the spare or when you drop it it will roll under something you just don't feel like moving just now.

Buy a couple extra caliber size nylon bore brushes for lubing the case necks when you resize.

Save Ice cream buckets for rinsing brass after you tumble.

Glad makes some quart size covered rectangular containers (grocery store) for storing brass in.

Didn`t see mention of a RCBS 10-10.....

Would like to have 10-10, santa has a budget( and 2 little girls) so the 5-0-5 it is. Maybe later I can upgrade. ha, ha.

Your list is fine. But, if Santa has a budget, you are over-spending for some of the stuff.

I've been doing this for over four decades and used a lot of tools and a lot of brands. I've learned where to economise and where to drop a little more money.

PRESS: RCBS rockchucker single stage master kit - Very good press but no better than others of its type. Look at a Lee Classic Cast (steel) press instead. It's much less expensive than the RC and perhaps even stronger, plus the lever is adjustable and the primer catcher system is MUCH better.

DIES: Lee deluxe 3 die set(then get hornady clamp type split lock nuts) - Fine choice. All the Lee sets, EXCEPT the RGB, include shell holders and that saves a few bucks but cartridge. I think it's their Delux sets that include their excellant collet neck sizer die.

Shellholders: RCBS #3(to wrk w/ rcbs hand primer - Fine choice. I prefer the inexpensive Lee "Autoprime" but some folks can't seem to use it correctly and break the alloy lever.

Case Tumbler: Cabelas case tumbler kit - Fine choice. Go to a large pet supply store and buy fine grit lizard bedding (walnut) media, add a half oz. of cheap auto polish. Cob is good too but one type media is plenty and the final result is pretty much the same.

Caliper: any none digital - Good, and stress ANY. Get the least expensive you can find, they are ALL made in the same Chinese plant, from Midway/Harbor Freight to RCBS.

Bullet Puller: Cabela's brand - Impact? Good.

Reloading labels:any form wherever - Good. I use Avery labels from Walmart's office supply. Many computer word processor programs will print anything you want on the Avery labels.

Ammo Boxes: any from wherever. Midway seems least expensive, last I checked anyway.

RCBS uniflow powder baffle - Try a Hornady measure instead. Basically the same tool but less costly and it comes with a micrometer chamber. And get a stand for it.

"whats a good case trimmer" - I've used several and prefer the Lyman Universal, largely because of its easy to use "universal" case holder. It's "Not the very best or most expensive, but gets the job done."

"what is the function of a precision micrometer (MIC) (RCBS for instance) and do I need one?" - Sorta, later. A big question.

It's actually a three function tool that 1) helps you find the seating depth to the origin of the rifleing, 2) gages the bullet seating depth to the rifling and 3) measures the head-to-shoulder length of your cases, both fired and resized.

It's a great advanced tool but one I would suggest you put off for a little while until you at least get your feet on solid ground. I have one for each of my rifles but believe in the "keep it simple" approach to learning. The Case MIC is a tool you can put off buying for awhile.

* Loading blocks - you need at least two (cheap) case loading blocks for each case head size you load for.

* Case lube - I like Imperial Die Wax and put it on with my finger tips, no pad. Other lubes work, Lee's may be the best alternative and least expensive.

* A deburing tool - after you trim case mouths, debur both the inside and out. I prefer a Wilson/RCBS type but the little Lee works well enough.

* Scale - the 1010 and 505 are basically the same scale but with different top limits. Both are made by Ohaus and sold by RCBS. It is unlikely you will ever need to measure over 505 grains (at least I don't so my 1010 is wasted) so get the less expensive scale.

* Powder trickler - No contest, a Redding. None of the others are as smooth or as stable (heavy), at least not when I last checked.

A SOLID BENCH - Perhaps the most important single loading "tool" is the bench you will make.

Make it elbow high when standing (mine is 41" high and it's none too tall). Get a thrift store "bar stool", with back. You can work either standing or seated this way.

Bench top need not be wider than maybe 24" but as long as you have room for. At least four feet long and twice that is much better. Use screws and glue for assembly if you can. Using cheap bulk "drywall" type screws and Liquid Nails is great.

Make the top seamless and plenty stiff - such as doubled 3/4" plywood. Let the top overhang the under support by 3-5" so you will have toe and knee room as you work. Paint it with any marine grade polyurethane to protect it and keep it clean.

Legs need be no more than 2x4 material. Used in compression, that's more than beefy enough.

Build a large "book case shelf over your bench and a wider shelf underneath to keep things close by. Make one upper shelf about nose high to support your beam scale at the right hight to make it easy to read.

Have plenty of light. Use at least one double 48" tube florescent fixture. Hang it directly over the front edge of the bench.

Mount your press with at least 14" of clear space to the left (if you're a right hander) so you have space for your loading blocks as you work. Mount the press on blocks so you can fully depress the lever without bending over; your back will thank you.

Mount your case trimmer to a small wood block. Mount a 3 1/3" or 4" swiveling mechanics vise (Lowes/HomeDepot) to one end of your bench. It will be handy to have and also will clamp your trimmer in place when you need to use it.

Good luck!

If you or your father have end-cutter pliers in your tool boxes, you already have a bullet puller. Put the loaded case in your press w/o a die installed. Push the bullet up through the hole, pad the bullet with something, and clamp on the pliers. When you lower the ram you'll have done a job that will make your oral surgeon proud. No damage.

If you're going to trim to SAAMI spec length, the Lee tool will do the job with minimal investment. If you later decide to fit your brass to the rifles' chambers, then an adjustable tool will be needed. The Wilson is the preferred trimmer, but Forster also has a following. Beyond that, convenience is a factor, and you should evaluate the different tools accordingly. Realistically, brass length is critical only to target shooters. For hunters, as long as the brass doesn't interfere with the chamber, there are no worries.
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quote:

Originally posted by sydsdaddy:
Shellholders: RCBS #3 (to wrk w/ RCBS hand primer)

According to YUMAN, the Lee shellholder that will be provided with the Lee dies will work with the RCBS priming tool, making this RCBS piece, upon which I was insistent, redundant - unless you simply want a spare, as has been recommended by miles58. With the two die sets, though, you'll have a spare.
.

A stuck case remover. Buy or make one. Sooner or later you'll need one, always at the worst time.

thanks so far my friend

for your case trimmer question, I would recommend the Lee ZIP TRIM its under 20.00 and the cost of the trim bit for each caliber is about 3.50. It is not perfect, but it is cheap and it does the job.

make sure you spend the few additional dollars and get the unversal chuck that works on all cases. speeds things along

For case trimming (I'm new at this as well and just gathering up some gear) my local gun shop offered me a Lee device with a case holder that fits into a cordless screwdriver and with a trimmer handle/blade into which I screw a steel pilot. I was very skeptical that something so simple could ever work but went with it anyhow. It wasn't big money.

I've since trimmed my cases with it, just so they all start out at the same length, and have found that they are all +/- .001 inch of each other when trimmed. I also find it easy to use though maybe if you were trimming lots of cases at a time with it then something more sophisticated might be useful. It might be simple but the results are as consistent as I think you will see with anything. There is a picture of it, plus other bits, on this page:

http://www.leeprecision.com/cgi/catalog/browse.cgi?1222...catalog/casecon.html

When it comes to calipers I have to recommend the digital ones. Maybe you aren't in the same position as me but my eyes aren't as good as what they used to be but I can read the digital display in a glance so for me it is faster, easier and reduces the chances of a mistake. As said before shop around and go for the least expensive one of your favoured type. It might be worth checking out hardware and DIY type catalogues as that is where mine came from. Something similar from a reloading catalogue was nearly twice the price.

I'd recommend digital calipers too. There's no interpolation, they're faster and reliable. I know they're more expensive but save up & get 'em. They have a "zero" feature that I find almost indespensible. If, for example, you're measuring case length, you can measure a case, hit "zero" and all subsequent readings are referenced to that setting. I use it for bullet seating too but then again, I'm probably too anal about seating depth. Just what I do. Good luck & have fun. Bear in Fairbanks

Thanks for all the input so far, I appreciate it.

btw - if you want a digital caliper I would highly recommend HarborFreightUSA as you will pay 35-50$ at a franklin armory site where you can get the same digital caliper for 15.00.

rje thanks for the tip, we have one here.

Lee and Redding shellholders work fine in my RCBS hand primer.

I prefer the Forster case trimmer. Their Brown & Sharpe type case head collet is very accurate at holding trimming lengths exact.

I'd shop around to other online stores than Cabelas, which I have found is overpriced.

quote:

Brown & Sharpe type case head collet is very accurate

That's true for "draw-in" collets IF the diameter of the objects being held are precise in diameter. Cartidge case heads are NOT precise.

The things I note is that I would rather use RCBS or Redding Dies they are MUCH easier to adjust the decapping die (which is by far the largest inducer or runout).
Also I'd buy the RCBS hand primer that has the universal shellholder so you don't have to mess with changing it.................DJ