Dear Wilson Owners,

I never had a proper case trimmer, so having read all the positive comments in here, I eventually got a Wilson in the "Sinclair Ultimate Trimmer" setup (stand, micrometer, shell holder clamp "Ultimate Trimmer" ).

New toy finally arrived - figured out how to drop the cases into the shell holder and fix the shell holder with the clamp... (hope I got it right?)

BUT, when I attempt to trim (i.e. operate the trimmer/cutter handle), the case seems to turn in the case holder with the cutter, and not much trimming is going on. What am I obviously doing wrong??

And while we are on the subject of Wilsons, Zediker's book had warned me that Wilsons rust, and they do. What do you do to yours to slow or prevent the oxidation process??

Thanks for any feedback in advance.

- mike

When you drop the case into the caseholder, quickly turn it over and give it a tap on your bench to seat it into the holder. After trimming, tap the case mouth on your bench or any piece of wood to loosen the trimmed case. Great trimmer, but I would like to see a better way to release the cases after they're trimmed.

Rick

If the case holder is turning as well as the as the case 1) you need to tighten the clamp that holds the holder. 2)gently bring the cutter into contact with the case mouth. It also helps to have the cutter turning before it begins to make contact with the case mouth. If the case is spinning inside the holder then follow the directions that tell you to "tap" the head of the case into the holder.

As far as rusting. If you have that high humidity that you already have rust forming on your Wilson trimmer, you will also be having trouble with your rifle/pistol barrels etc. Treat your trimmer as you do your guns!
Also you may want to check your reloading dies, and other tools.
muck

[ 07-18-2003, 04:39: Message edited by: muck ]

mho, part of the secret is to not take too large of a cut(apply less inward pressure to the crank).

Secondly, a hammer handle, or hard wood block of some sort will help in seating the case in the holder. I drop the case into the holder, then tap it in with a hammer handle and trim. For removal, I tap the holder(upside down) on a block to remove the case. Do so carefully, or you'll damage the case mouth.

Also know, there are different size holders for cases that have, and those that have not been resized. It is possible that a case may not fit the holder properly if the above mentioned condition exists.

packrat

As stated you have to rap the case and caseholder on something to seat the case and to free it to remove.I prefer an old magazine or catalogue rather than wood or anything hard enough to screw up the case mouth.I use a silicone treated Gun and Reel cloth (think its made by Birchwood Casey) on mine.
Jeff

[ 07-18-2003, 10:54: Message edited by: jsr ]

Guys, you are a wealth of information. I knew I could count on you - I guess that is why I enjoy this forum so much I'll try out your collective advise- and complain if it does not work for me

Thanks a bunch - mike

The key is to tap just enough to "lock" it in. If you tap it too hard it is difficult to get out. I keep my shell holders in old film canisters. This helps keep the rust down. I also wipe them down with gun oil.

Everyone's comments on 'tapping' are right on the money (I use a little 3" by 4" by 1" thick piece of oak). Only thing I wish to add is that I 'blue' all my Wilson tools (I have quite a few), being careful not to let the acid get inside the gauges/holders/on the steps of the gauges/cutting surfaces, and haven't had a problem with rust.

Thanks for the feedback, guys. Much appreciated!
- mike