I'm shooting a .257 Roberts and a 6.5 Roberts. Can't tell one case from the other visually and the headstamp is worthless since they started out the same. Wouldn't do me any good to make the 6.5 cases from 7x57 since I'm shooting one of them, too.

I've blackened the case heads for the 6.5 with some stuff Brownell's sold and maybe still sells and I used Magic Marker after I ran out of the chemical.

Anyone got a better approach to this problem?

When I need to mark cases I file a small notch on the base edge. I use this most often to keep from mixing LOTs of brass.

You get two cardboard boxes, then you take your magic marker and on one box you write .257 Roberts and on the other you write 6.5x257.

Put the appropriate brass in the appropriate box...

I use a spring loaded center punch to put a little dent in the bottom of one type of case. Of course, I also keep them in separate boxes, but there is always the possibility of accidentally mixing them, and this is my "back up", so, in the end, I can always tell them apart.

When I enlarged the vents in some .45-70 cases I marked them by knurling the rims, rolling them under a mill file on an oak board.
Years ago I tried liver of sulfur to stain cases and it was not successful. Perhaps The cases were not well degreased. The odor was not attractive.
Now I usually just Magic Mark the primer.
Cheers from Grayest California,
Ross

I think you need to get rid of that 257 bob and your problem will be solved

I might be able to help you there, send me a couple of pics of it!

Use the .257 Bob brass for the .257, load 6.5x.257 with 7x57 brass and call it a 6.5x57, load your 7x57 with 8x57 brass and call it a 7x8x57 Mauser. Want me to go over that again?

Try useing a different brand of brass for each IE; Rem for the 257 and Win for 6.5s.
I agree with Steve that only keeping one box out at a time and haveing it properly mark works for me when shooting my 260s and 708s (2 of each). I don`t mix at the range or bench this way. Although it works, a visual aid never hurts,I do use different colored plastic boxes to ID the loads for one cartridge from the other at a glance. I use red for my 260 and grey for the 708.

why not mark the bases with a vibrating etching tool?

I use a Dremel parting disc to notch the edge of rims. Sounds awful, but works well. You can both see and feel the notch, so don't HAVE to look at the brass to sort it.

Also has the advantage of letting you "index" your brass if you are of a mind to. I spin mine on a mandrel under a 0.0001" indicator until I locate the thin side of the neck, then mark the neck at the thin spot with a magic marker. Second step is to notch the rim in line with the magic mark.

Then, both when loading and chambering the ammo, I keep the rim notch oriented. That is, the notch is at the front of the loading tool when I load it, and at the right rail of the action when I chamber it in the rifle. (Home-made bullets are also oriented to the case.)

Some claim it increases accuracy. I think it does, too, but have never bothered to absolutely proove it for myself. I do know it doesn't hurt accuracy.

AC