Let's just say, theoretically, that a reloader used large rifle primers instead of large PISTOL primers to load 100 or so 44 mag mid-range load with a 250 gr. jacketed round.
Would this reloader be best to dis-assemble the entire lot or "theoretically" would a Ruger Redhawk handle the supposed pressure spike from the rifle primer?

I could remotely fire the revolver from a rest but would not like to rapidly dis-assemble the Ruger.

Anyone else ever do a bone-headed error and live to tell?

Thanks,

Gary

Hi Gab

Firstly welcome to the forum.

I suppose we can all do odd things if we put (or should that be" not put"!!) our minds to it.

I do not have a technical answer to the question you pose but as you have not, in the great scheme of things, loaded too many rounds incorrectly, I would personally use a kinetic hammer puller and knock out the bullets, gather up the powder to be re-used and then enjoy a half hour range saession firing off those primed cases, Just better to be safe than sorry.

The Ruger is a strong actioned revolver and would in all probability be O.K to fire them off, but do you want to risk it?

Good luck

I'v used pistol primers in rifle cartriges (30-06) no ill efects, all fired. The .454 Casull uses small rifle primers for the revolver.
Mike

Personally, I'd go with Jonathan Tomlinson's advice and pull the bullets.

The problem with a too-stong primer is that it ignites the powder too fast leading to a pressure spike. This happens in standard rifle loads sometimes when using magnum primers, and even strong handguns don't have the strength of bolt action rifles. Better safe than sorry...

Jaywalker

As long as you have loaded them in a mid pressure range, the use of a rifle primer shouldn't have much more of an effect than if you had loaded w/ mag. pistol primers. Shoot them up. THis is just my own experience, I've loaded rounds this way before w/o a problem.

The key here is low - mid PRESSURE range. A mid range velocity load of 2400 gives less pressure then a mid range load with Bullseye. The rifle primer can likely be fired with no problem if the load isn`t pushing pressures. The only real problem I can forsee is the cup material on rifle primers is thicker and harder then pistol and you "may" have ignition trouble if your hammer strike is on the light side. But, I don`t see this happening with a Ruger.

The others are probably right though and pulling the bullet is the most prudent way to go.

Appreciate the prompt feedback.
I loaded these rounds at the bottom of the chart from Lapua 10.1 gr. N-340 but unsure how "fast" this powder is relative to a Bullseye or Unique.
Will most likely just pull the bullet and pop out the offending primer and start over with a whole lot more attention to what the h--- I'm doing.
Like in most endeavors, do anything long enough and you will probably make all of the possible errors.

Thanks again,
Gary

I can guarantee you that you place yourself more in jeopardy of a mishap (though not particularly likely) in disassembling the live rounds than by shooting them.

First, the main difference in "rifle" and "pistol" primers is in the thickness of the cups, not in the amount of priming compound or the "brisciance" therof. Second, the pressure range of the loads you are using is low enough that there is a large margin for any additional pressure due to a "hot" primer. Third, the amount of pressure difference between a "hot" primer and a "mild" primer with this load is negligible compared to the built-in margin of strength in the case (and less importantly, the action of the gun itself). And finally, there is no certain way to tell whether a randomly selected "rifle" primer will produce more or less pressure than a randomly selected "pistol" primer, although it would be typical for the rifle primer to produce slightly more.

Bottom line: Shoot them: You'll never know the difference, and it will be safer than pulling the bullets and decapping live primers.

I would say that I think it is okay for you to fire these loads.

I found the following to be the powder range with a 250 grain bullet:
N-340 From 9.6 grains to 11.5 grains
CCI-350 Primer

In mostly going along with Stonecreeks posting be aware that the thicker metal may give faulty ignition depending how hard a hammer strike you get. The occurance may be remote but if you do get a misfire Don't go rotating the cylinder imediately. roger

I made that mistake once for a couple of rounds in 44mag. What i noticed was that the primers weren't flush with the case, stuck out by a milimeter or so. So while they may be safe to shoot, not sure they wont hangup your revolver. But what ever you decide to do be safe, as im sure you are. But if you want to start enouther argument ask what is the best way to remove live primers from a case.

But in response to you last question. Me make a boneheaded mistake? Never, Nope not at all, and if anyone says differently there lying. yep thats it.

If you want to pull the bullets go for it. But do not try to remove the primers live. Put them in your revolver and shoot them off at the range. It is dangerous to try to remove live primers and your eyes are not easy to replace as a few primers.