I have read quite a few things on this topic and wanted to ask if anyone has seen this problem being caused with a powder type and not a barrel pressure or cheek weld issue?

Yes, horizontal stringing is most often (if barrel pressure and poor hold are eliminated) an indicator of inconsistant ignition. Powders have a deterant coating on them that determines their burning rate. Many powders only burn efficiently in a narrow band of pressure. Any more details on what you are experiencing?

Larry Gibson

Not really, just getting a straight line of shots....about 1.25 inches in spread with 58.0 of h4350 and a 165gr partition

Also consider a loose scope or a scope malfunction.

quote:

Originally posted by BsChoy:
Not really, just getting a straight line of shots....about 1.25 inches in spread with 58.0 of h4350 and a 165gr partition

You should not be having ignition consistancy problems with that load. I would look for other causes if the rifle consistantly shoots vertical strings. Grumulkin's suggestion is a good place to starte as are loose bedding screws.

Larry Gibson

Does the stringing start with the second shot? Or, do you get two or three to group, and then it starts stringing?

I have dealt with this many times. You need to methodically eliminate the variables.

1. Check your action screws to be sure they are tight.
2. As was mentioned earlier, be sure that there is not a scope issue - mount screws are tight, rings are precisely aligned, ring screws are tight, and rings actually tightened around the scope.
3. Has the scope be tested on another rifle to be sure that the scope is reliable?
4. Are you shooting off of a rifle rest or some other device which will insure that the rifle is stable?
5. Does the rifle do the same thing with factory ammo?
6. Does the rifle behave the same whether the bore is clean or fouled?
7. Does the rifle behave the same if the shots are fired from a cold barrel, or from a hot barrel?
8. Is the barrel free floated? You did not indicate the make, model, or caliber. The make probably has no influence, but the model and caliber certainly can. Most often I find that a rifle is more accurate with a free floated barrel. However, I am aware of very accurate
rifles that have a planned pressure point some where in the forward stock. Rifles with barrel bands, especially lever actions, can be very tricky to make group, especially after the barrel warms up.

The above things need to be checked before you start trying to diagnose your reloads. There are lots of variables in reloading that can take a lot of time and experimentation which translates into cost.

Let us know how things progress.

Good Luck

Good info...the rifle is a M700 BDL synthetic in 06. It is only shoting strings like this with Nosler partitions. I have fired about 60 rounds through it and it fired most other bullets into round groups. They were speer 165 bt's with RL22. I thought it might be the bullet and powder combo. I started floating the barrel nd I will tighten everything down when I am done.

I think this may occur right after a new bedding job or a new barrel is broken in and dissapears soon after.

OK, you've got some good things working already.
Great make and model and terrific caliber.

First, finish floating the barrell. Next be sure that everything is tight when you put it back together. After tightening the action screws, take a piece of paper (a one dollar bill works very nicely, or a hundred dollar bill will work also) and slide it between the forearm and the barrell to be sure that there is clearance between the forearm and barrell and that it is truly free floated.

Now use another type of load besides the NP. Factory loads or get some 165 or 168 Sierra Match Kings. These bullets are quite inexpensive and they are so accurate that the lare majority of competitive shooters use them and they are always a good baseline to work from. (Match Kings are not suitable for hunting big game because the hollow point doesn't always open up). Test fire the rifle with the Sierra's.

In test firing any of your loads for accuracy you need to shoot three, and then let the barrell cool completely back to ambient temp.
Then fire the next three. The point here is to take a hot barrell out of the variables. Usually with a sporter weight barrell, shot number 4 will move because of the heating of the barrell, and the pattern will continue to spread out as it gets hotter. After you shoot three rounds, check the clearance again between the forearm and the barrell. Often it will change after heating.

A helpful hint is to get an airpump and cool the barrell between test groups. If you are at a range that has AC power, a small air pump like is used in an aquarium works great - just run the plastic hose into the chamber from the action end and let it sit there and pump air through it until the temp is back to normal, usually less than five minutes. If you are at an outdoor range, you can do the same thing with a Coleman DC powered air pump like you would fill a tire with and plugs into your cigarette lighter. You just want to speed up the cooling process so you don't have to be there all day.

The other step that you should be consistent about is cleaning the bore after every nine or ten rounds. Just take your cleaning equipment along and clean the carbon out after every ten rounds. Remember that the first shot after cleaning will be fouling shot and the next shots will probably move, and that's OK. On your range sheet, just record the fouling shot seperately.

My experience has been that Nosler Partitions are not the most accurate hunting bullet. I have been using them since 1976 and I do like the terminal performance on game, but I have always had to spend a lot of time developing the accuracy of the load. I don't know what you intend to hunt with the NP, but if you want to stay with Nosler, try the Accubond with the plastic tip. I have found this to be exceptional accurate and it performs great on deer and elk. Of course, shot placement is always very important and that's where the accuracy comes in.

I also use a range sheet for every test group that indicates the date, time, temp, rifle description, caliber, powder, primer, brass (new or fired, make) bullet type and weight,
source of your loading data (Nosler, Sierra, Barnes, etc) and then how the shots hit the target. After shooting I take a caliper to the target and record the center to center of the widest shots of the group either on the target or on the range sheet. This inforamtion will be of great assistance as you development other loads in the future, and it will give you a history of your rifle as things start to change with wear and age.

Let us know how things progress.

Also check Primers

Bad ignition or non consistent ignition could be by primers brand.
Try also to change it and try again

Alright. I finish the floating and tighten everything down and see how that works. Thanks for the advice guys and I'll let you know how this works out

I had something similar happen a few years back .

I found out it was the projectiles them selfs !.

Seems I some how ended up with Seconds in a regular box !. I how ever remembered I purchased them at a Local Gun Show !. Seems as though not all may have been on the Up & Up !.

If I purchase seconds I expect to get just that , how ever purchasing seconds in a regular box wasn't what I bargained for !.

They were good enough for hunting but lousy on paper .

Shoot Straight Know Your Target . ...

OK, I floated the barrel with a little quick dremel work and tightened everything down...Now to load 5 more and see whats up!!