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Gentlemen, hopefully this won't be too complicated a question but are there general rules of thumb for deciding what primer to use with what powder (based on load size or bullet weight or whatever)? My dad used to get a 2" group to drop to 3/4" by using a magnum primer in his .270 (same powder/charge). It seemed like a fluke to stumble across such a result but maybe there is a sensible reason? Anyone know of any? The free-for-all method of trying everything with everything seems like such a waste of time. (obviously you need to follow the books but you get my point) Thanks, Barry | ||
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Some say >70 grains of powder, use a magnum primer. Less than 70 grains, use a standard primer. Jason "You're not hard-core, unless you live hard-core." _______________________ Hunting in Africa is an adventure. The number of variables involved preclude the possibility of a perfect hunt. Some problems will arise. How you decide to handle them will determine how much you enjoy your hunt. Just tell yourself, "it's all part of the adventure." Remember, if Robert Ruark had gotten upset every time problems with Harry Selby's flat bed truck delayed the safari, Horn of the Hunter would have read like an indictment of Selby. But Ruark rolled with the punches, poured some gin, and enjoyed the adventure. -Jason Brown | |||
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I've been using the "what the manual recommends for primers" approach. That seems to work pretty well. I have noticed that I always end up using mag primers for spherical powders (usually under compressed powder situations). "We are what we repeatedly do. Excellence, then is not an act, but a habit"--Aristotle (384BC-322BC) | |||
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I have always heard that you should use magnum primers for a 65 gr. or higher powder charge. | |||
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i use mag type primer with 65 grs. or higher. and also with ball type powder in the 30-06 class cases. everything else is WLR.. | |||
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I have no rules of thumb for using primers except the large one go in the large holes and the small ones in the small holes and the large cartridges (based on the full length 300 H&H Magnum case) get magnum primers. I've found that the particular type of prime frequently makes a significant difference in the accuracy department and that good accuracy doesn't always go along with the magnum primers with ball powder dictum or vice versa. If you aren't happy with a load, try different primers and sometimes it will make a difference. | |||
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For the most part I have always used Win-WLR primers for my loads. They have seemed to do the job on loads up to the belted mag sized cases. Even with some of the belted cases for the smaller calibers they have worked just fine and even better than some of the Mag primers. If I worked up through a particular powers charge weights and didn't find the groups I was looking for, I sometimes would swap out the primer to another brand, but hardly ever went with a mag type. The WIn's as a general rule always seemed to be a tad hotter than the rest, so that might be why they worked so well with so many different loads. Mike / Tx | |||
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Yeah, we get your point. In fact, we all wish there was some secret way to make things work good without us having to. But .... | |||
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Interesting replies so far and I'd consider all of them valid.....or at least worthy of emulating. Just one thing....always record what you used so you can reproduce it and always work up. from there you're on your own. /////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// "Socialism is a philosophy of failure, the creed of ignorance, and the gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery." Winston Churchill | |||
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I don't NEED a mag primer until my powder charge tops 70gr or is ball powder. You may work a load up, then swap a mag rpimer & see if groups tighten up (if near max, back off 5% & work back up). I have often found mag primers in smaller, medium burn rate powder charges decrease accuracy. In slower powders, increase accuracy. Your rifle will tell you. LIFE IS NOT A SPECTATOR'S SPORT! | |||
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I use the old, Once I develop a Load with a Primer(or any component) continue using them from the same Lot until they are gone. Then re-develop the Load, or verify it with any New Lot. Sometimes the Pressure goes down, sometimes up and occasionally it will actually remain close to the same when a Lot changes. Best of luck to you. | |||
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If it's got a belt, I use a mag primer. If not, and it has a big hole, I use a large primer. If it has a small hole, I use a small primer. I have tried using mag primers with standard loads and bench rest primers with standard loads and have, on occassion gotten small increases in accuracy. Sometimes, especially in hunting situations, not worth the extra expense. But I have never been fortunate enough to have a change of primers turn a pray and spray load into a barn-burning, one-holer. IMO, it's kinda like adjusting your bullet jump. It may fine tune an already good load and make it slightly better (or worse), but it ain't gonna do a lot for a bad one. Lets not forget, when we start jimmin' around, the new stuff ain't always gonna makes things better. Aim for the exit hole | |||
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Rules of thumb All ball powder - magnum primers 65gr + in 30'06 case - magnum primers Reduce charge by 1 gr if trying magnum primer in a load that normally uses standard primers I only use Fed 210 primers for all large rifles & F215 mag for large loads. "When the wind stops....start rowing. When the wind starts, get the sail up quick." | |||
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The idea that ball powder is hard to light, ergo, magnum primers, does not seem to hold true in the real world IMO. I've shot tons (slight exaggerateion for emphasis) of ball powder w/o a mag primer w/o a problem. Also, I have loaded up ammo in 90+ Okla temps that was fired in below 0 temps in Wy w/o mag primers that lit off and killed stuff okay. Maybe that's not cold enough to make a difference but if it's too cold, I ain't gonna be out there. Aim for the exit hole | |||
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