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Greenie, I usually buy the reloading manuals from the major bullet makers, and all of them have lots of introductory material. Metallic case reloading is different from shotshell reloading, as you usually work up a load for a rifle instead of just following a recipe from a manual. Also you can search the internet using google.com, there is lots of stuff out there as well. Terry Blauwkamp posts on AR, and he does seminars on reloading. jim dodd | |||
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Holy Smokes, ya done good on your purchase! I would get a Lyman reloading 47th edition and/or a Speer 13th edition or newer if it is out. They both have excellent instructions on how to reload. Read through those and then post questions you may have. | |||
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For a rookie the best manual to read, not for the loads available, but for the mechanics of reloading etc, I think the best is A-Square's "Any Shot You Want". It is excellent with respect to how to adjust sizing dies etc but I really like the discussion on the effects of changing components on performance and pressure. | |||
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Greenheadwoody: See below, I double posted by mistake. [ 12-27-2002, 22:14: Message edited by: Terry Blauwkamp ] | |||
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Dear Greenhead Write me anytime at tblauwkamp@superior-sales. with any particular questions, and I'll happy to try and help. Terry | |||
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<1badassmagnum> |
I would use the manual that bests covers the componants your going to use.only speer carries my bullets so I use their manual.if you use hornady componants buy their manual etc.happy shooting. | ||
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Mr. Green: I would encourage you to look at "manual purchasing" NOT as a one-time event. Manuals contain knowledge, and knowledge changes with each passing day. I strongly, strongly urge you to get the right mindset about manuals, being that they are a fluid commodity, so to speak. Don't get it into your head that, when a newer version of your particular manual comes out, you don't need it because you have one already. True, maybe you won't have any of the latest whiz-bang new offerings (i.e., RUMs, SAUMs, WSMs, WSSMs, et cetera)... but data for existing cartridges changes. In particular, I have two in-sequence manuals from both Nosler and Hodgdon, and for a couple of the chamberings for which I load, they changed the data. Specifically, in one case, they threw out an entire load -- the one I'd been using. Does this mean my load is suddenly unsafe because it's not in the current manual? Does this mean there was a major change in the burn rate of the powder? Not things for you to worry about, but things for you to be aware of. Also, as you go along, you'll start to feel you can extrapolate data and use powders or charges that aren't listed. To a degree, this is somewhat normal, but I would suggest you strictly adhere to printed data for a while, until you've gotten a lot more knowledge and experience under your belt. Good luck. Russ [ 12-28-2002, 02:37: Message edited by: Russell E. Taylor ] | |||
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I find myself using the "all new third edition" of M. L. McPherson's METALLIC CARTRIDGE RELOADING quite often even though I have the powder and bullet maker's manuals too. 10,000 loads for 125 rifle and handgun calibers. Softcover is getting pretty darn dog-eared. It is a bit dated as it's a 1996 edition. I wonder why Mic hasn't come out with a fourth edition? What's he waiting for? What it doesn't have are the ballistic tables which I can do without since my Oehler 43 PBL gives me that info. Stay safe in the new year with your new hobby. | |||
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A couple of sites are www.imrpowder.com and www.geocities.com/CapitolHill/Lobby/1221/index.htm Most powder mfgs have free data. | |||
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Dear Green head: One thing we should ask - what kind of shooting are you going to do - what kind of guns, calibers also will help us give you more specific advice. One of the wonderful things about reloading is that the basic techniques and tools haven't really changed all that much so having the very latest manual(s) isn't all that necessary. I'd say that if you have a good manual not over 15 years old, it should have adequate info. Study it well and proceed cautiously. I taught myself to do it using a lyman book when I was only 13! What fun I had ( and a pound of powder or box of bullets cost only $3)! | |||
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Ahhh, the good old days! I just finished the last of a pound of H335 bought in 1979 at the low low price of $2.95. I still have part of a can of IMR4756 bought for $2.36. Last but not least, partial can of Bullseye--still good--bought in 1971 but the price sticker has fallen off. Can't remember what I paid for it but it must have been dirt cheap. | |||
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