I have been using RCBS case lube applied with a lube pad but someone suggested I try a spray on case lube. I purchased some Hornady One Shot spray case lube. I must say, I love it. It is so much simpler to use and I seem to have good results with it. The roll on lube is less expensive, but I have gotten some wrinkled cases because I used too much lube, but have never had that problem with the spray on. Are there any problems with the spray on lubes? What are the pros and cons of the two types of lube?

i've had a couple bad experiences with the hornady one shot. now i use dillons stuff and have ha zero problems. the one thing to remember is to give it a little time after you spray it on, otherwise you'll get some lub dents. i still roll cases if there are just a few, but in general the spray has taken over

Looong time ago I bought TWO of the bottles of RCBS lube. I'll probably leave part of a bottle to one of my kids. Its worked for me and I guess I'm a why fix what ain't broke kinda guy.
It'd hurt my little cheap heart to go out and buy case lube with perfectly good case lube on the shelf.

spray on!!!

I use the stuff from Lyman.....Bartsch hates it!!! I got quite a lot of it from him for postage and I'm still loving it and using it!

I just switched over to the RCBS pump spray lube, Case Slick I believe it's called. I've only run about 30 cases with it so far, but I find it to work great. I spritz it on, fool around for a couple minutes, then come back and resize the buggers, effortlessly.

My only complaint would be that it's a little bit in the nasty solvent category. There's hexane in it I believe. I'm careful not to get it all over everything and not breathe the stuff too much. I wear a nitrile glove on one hand to handle the brass and use the other hand to run the press. Now, don't get the impression that this stuff is like some toxic waste, unfit for household use. I just happen to be increasingly aware of the garbage I get in my body. Other hobbies like welding, blacksmithing, machine work etc. have surely poisoned me enough. The fact that I reload in my kitchen confuses me as much as it does you.

Prior to this lube I used the thick, oil RCBS lube, but applied it with my hands. Never once did I have a stuck case or dented shoulder.

On a related note, I briefly tried some Lee lube before buying the pump spray RCBS and found it to be awful. It comes in a tube like toothpaste does. The consistency seemed close to sunscreen. I found it extremely difficult to apply a satisfactory amount of lube to the cases. Eventually, I had to apply the lube to each case individually to get the batch done. 3 out of 19 cases dented, and the rest resized extremely hard. It seemed as if the line between "too much" and "not enough" was very fine. Keep in mind that I have NEVER had a stuck case or dented shoulder in the past. This puzzled me because I think Lee is a fine company that designs quality products with the reloader truly in mind, all at great prices. Perhaps I was using the lube incorrectly???

For you guys that use spray on lube...

Ever consider using an old frying pan, and spray the lube on the frying pan.. and then just putting the cases in there and swishing them around using the handle of the pan?

Just like swishing around butter or something when cooking....

I do this.. as I figure that the lube is going to stick to metal... so a lubed frying pan, is going to have cases pick up the lube off of it when they are put in it....

I give my frying pan a squirt of lube after I finish lubing some cases, and then hang it on the side of the reload bench on a hook...any excess had drained off by the next time I use it..

this allows me to lube about 250 223 cases before the pan needs another shot of lube....

I also got wise and quit lubing case necks on the rifle cases... I figured they all touch the same expander ball... so now I just pull out the expander ball, lube it and then size the cases...

it is easier to do this lubing at ONE central point they all have to pass thru, than it is to have to lube each one individually...

other lubes like Bardahl, WD 40, even Mobil ONE motor oil work real well as lubes.. and are easily cleaned off in the tumbler...

I just find this way easier and less time consuming than the way I was taught originally to lube cases by reading the instructions that came with the Rockchucker Kit when i first bought it...

I don't even have a pad any more. I use a spray on for the bulk loading, Imperial size wax for the individual stuff and a dry mica Imperial lube for neck sizing. The Imperial wax I just get a LITTLE on my finger and smear it on the case by hand. I have had the same 2 ounces for years.

I use Imperial Sizing Die Wax for rifle cases and Midway spray lube for the pistol cases...even nickel plated cases. The 2 ounce can of wax I bought years ago will last the rest of my life, I'm sure. And I bought a few cans of the old Frankfort Arsenal spray when it was in their monthly sale flyer. I'm sure I'm set for life there too.

Sometimes I tend to be a pack rat. I kept the RCBS lube and pad for years after I switched to wax. I finally tossed it into the burn barrel last summer. Good riddance! What a nightmare that stuff was, especially when working in a cold basement. Talk about thick as molasses. And the lube would react over time with the foam pad making it shed pieces. I'm so glad there's something 100 times better.

The spray on stuff is the best! I still have my roll on pad, but its a mess...I don't use it anymore unless I have to lube the inside case neck (which is almost never).
The Hornady One Shot was great, but the propellant would run out with a bunch of lube still in the can. I like the pump from Rooster, but the pump stuff from Dillon or RCBS worked just as well. I use an old 13x9 inch pan. That way I can just wash it off once in a while.

Spray on 2

I use Boeshield T-9 aerospace lube , I used to use Dillon nothing wrong with it worked real well for years . I then discovered T-9 and not only does it work GREAT it kept my cases cleaner than anything else . Which in turn reduced my tumbling cases if I needed to clean them at all !.

I have those cheap aluminum rectangular pans one buys at those catering supply places . A light soft Kimberly Wipe in the bottom . Lay those cases down Pistol or Rifle a LIGHT spray roll them over repeat . Ready to go !.

I imagine Kroil would work as well , except it smells like Sh t . I've used it for Years but I use it on Rusted or parts that need cleaning .

Shoot Straight Know Your Target. ...

When I first bought a batch of reloading stuff at a garage sale in the summer of 1979 (a Mec500 a Lyman Spar-T press and associated bits all for $40) it came with a Lyman lube pad and two tubes of case lube.

With each used press I've bought over the years (garage sales) each came with one or more lube pads and a tube of case lube.

I have never actually SEEN an empty tube of case lube, except the tube that emptied itself into a metal drawer full of die boxes after a mouse chewed the corner off of it.
It musta tasted really bad because I found the expired mouse in the drawer, coated in lube (served the little f'er right for the mess he made

The Aerosol case lube works, no stuck cases, no crumpled shoulders.... and no sticky fingers.

But even though I reload an awful lot most of the cases I load are straight sided cases that I resize in carbo sizers
(on a progressive press) so they don't require lube.

The aerosol is really the way to fly when doing large batches
of 223 or for 30carbine in a carbo sizer (they are so long and tapered that they still require lube.

But I find that I prefer the oldfashioned method for the larger bottlenecked cases.

I was initially concerned by the increased cost, but my single aerosol can had lubed >5000 cases so far and still
isn't empty

AD

I wonder how much of this stuff we absorb. WD-40 and Varsol get into our systems as though the skin did not even exist.

The spray concerns me the most, but we need something.

Fan on, window open, still it is in the air for a while.

gray fox,

Ever wash crud off your hands with carb cleaner? Starting fluid is even worse. I'm such a hypocrite sometimes that I crack myself up. I wear gloves for lubing brass but I'll subject myself to things 10 times worse. My liver has an octane rating by now.

was just thinking - on 50 BMG's i spray on breakfree and then throw them into a pail of degreaser. pull them out and leave dry. makes sizing 50's easy

Carb cleaner, hell yes.

I helped to build several "rec rooms" using asbestos drywall, stopped to have a beer and lunch in the same room, then carry on.

Now you need a respirator and full body suit to remove even a speck of that stuff.

Too soon old, too late smart. No kidding.

I stopped useing a lube pad 15 0r 20 years ago never looked back I now use Midway pump lube works great. I used Hornaday but lost to much when the nozzle would jam up. So went to the pump.

I wear Nitrile gloves for most everything NOW DAYS . I have NO FAT left in my hands what so ever from ALL the solvents , Acids and combination of Chemicals ; I've used over more years than I care to admit to . I KNOW BETTER which really SUCKS !.

Now I prefer clean untainted food at meal time , I can even smell the food now !.

I used to work with a close friend who happens to be a Plumber !. Talk about Eating without washing ones hands EH !.

Talk about where your hands should never be , let alone touch anything !!!!!!. Wax closet rings ?, Ring any bells /. He's healthy as a horse !. So much for germ warfare huh ?.

Only if I'd been a little dumber , I could of been a plumber chasing turds all summer ,

I can't remember the rest of that song !.

Shoot Straight Know Your Targets . ...

quote:

Originally posted by vapodog:
spray on!!!

I use the stuff from Lyman.....Bartsch hates it!!! I got quite a lot of it from him for postage and I'm still loving it and using it!

Roll on the Bardhal!!! roger

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Dr.K:
I imagine Kroil would work as well , except it smells like Sh t . QUOTE]

No it doesn't! It smells like a sanatized gas station rest room! roger

I just bought a Case of the Dillon spray on lube. I kept running out too quickly just buying it 2 or 3 at time. It's as good as any of the spray on lubes, better than most and cheaper.
I still will use the roll pad if I'm just doing a few cases at time but for larger lots the Dillon Spray is the nuts. I followed their advice and stole a cookie tray from my wife to roll and spray the cases in and bought her a newer and better one to keep myself in cookies.........................DJ

I truely am puzzled

It would seem that the sprays are use because they are thought to be better and fster to use.

On a saturated Bardahl quad folded rag it is possible to roll 10 to 15 cases at a time ready to size. That's a total of 15 seconds. Taking off the rag one at a time sizing, primeing, light wipe and setting them in a block up-side-down, perhaps another 20 seconds ea. once you get the rhythm going.

Question: would you consider a 100 to 180 sized and primed cases slow ? The lubricity of Bardahl is something you'll have to campare for your self but nothing has worked quite as well for me in the severe forming of some wildcat cases. In all the shooting I do I've only used about 1/5 of a pint bottle of Bardahl in the last 4 years.

It looks like I won't finish that bottle before I take my last shot. VD, It'll be in my will for you. Of course you will have to cover the postage. roger

Bartsche ; Have you been sniffing restrooms again ?.

I buy that Kroil stuff directly from Kano Labs and It never smelled sanitized to me .

I'm surprised no one uses STP or Slick Fifty !.

I normally lay out 100 cases per pan and spray T-9 on , then load . If I for some reason don't finish in that session , I just use a clean terry cloth cover the pan let em set until I find time .

I used to use the hand towels from the Bathroom to cover them ( Maybe that's where you got that bathroom oder confusion from ? ) . The Wife clobbered me one day when she found all those Towels in my Loading room .

Now I just buy a huge box of Kimberly no lint reusable wipes .

Shoot Straight Know Your Target . ...

Started out using the pad and lube that came in the hornady case care kit I bought when I started out reloading. Now I use a spray on.

Currently using Size-all. I'll fill a tray and spray, rotate 180 degrees and spray again, then size/deprime. Wipe them off as I inspect each case and place in a bin. Haven't had any lube dents yet.

I use the spray from time to time and never a problem with it, I put the cases in a plastic bowl, spray them, shift them around and let them sit for about 10 or 15 minutes..Never had a problem..I use the lube and it last forever if you use a pad..

I have never had any problems with any lube and I probably have used it all at one time or another..

My favorite is that stuff in the white tub (Imperial ??), I use it with my fingers or on a pad.

I will warn some here that using Kroil, break free, and some other penetrating oils will seep into primer pockets and give you misfires or so I have been told by some experienced handloaders. I dont' know as I have never used it, but it makes since to me as Kroil will penetrate even the toughest rusted out screws..

I have had all that stuff on my hands for 73 years and no negitive effects yet and I'm still on this side of the dirt and going strong..maybe I'm just lucky, don't know but I'm damn healthy and active.

quote:

Originally posted by Atkinson:
I'm still on this side of the dirt and going strong..maybe I'm just lucky, don't know but I'm damn healthy and active.

How bout them apples? roger

That is correct Ray it's the oil that " Creeps "!.

I only use lube when sizing de-priming and always wipe my cases off when finished .

With Boeshield T-9 it takes so little that I rarely see it any where near the rim or case head .
An added advantage IMO is using Nitrile in my case or latex gloves in protecting ones skin but also having the ability of spreading what ever lube with your fingers as you grasp each case .

I've never had a dented shoulder from excess lube .

Those of you who are unfamiliar with Boeshield T-9 , it was developed by Boeing Aircraft Industries . After extensive product testing and evaluation of " Several " other products which failed to meet aviation requirements .

It actually repels moisture rather than attracts it , which can't be claimed by many of those other " Popular brands " of Fluff in the can !. Tri Flow would be another quality lube which I'm sure would work as well .

Hell I know a guy who has been loading since Dirt was new , he uses cooking oil and a little either kerosene or mineral spirits to thin it !.

What ever works what ever is cost effective stay with it !.


Shoot Straight Know Your Target . ...

Like some others have posted, I like using a spray with a progressive press and Imperial Sizing Wax when using a single stage.

I like to use a plastic tub with the spray lube. Drop the cases in, give a shot then shake at a 45 degree angle, most all the cases will turn mouth up and you can give a tiny shot to the lube the mouths.

I use Hornady One Shot for my 44's and rcbs roll on or lee rub on for my rifles. I don't shoot more than 1000 or 1200 44's per year, and probably no more than that from the many caliber rifles that I load for. So far everything is fine.

Imperial wax works for me just a little on a few fingers and You can lube a hundred cases in minutes!! Its also easy to clean off with straight corncob and a little alcohol in the tumbler!

I shoot a hell of a lot each week, month and year and the spray on lube made my live much more pleasent, according to my wife. Good shooting.

I always use the spray. I put the cases standing up in a shoe box, spray them inside the collet, shift them around, spray again and let's roll and roll with my 550..Never had a problem. Spraying inside makes the resizing much easier.
I purposely sprayed primers before and after priming and they were not contaminated when I used the reloaded ammo the week after, no dud, no problem.

Take an empty cleaned peanut butter jar and place your brass in it. Then spray your Hornady One Shot, Dillon, etc. spray lube into the container and quickly replace the lid. Shake for a minute or so and you have brass that won't stick inside your dies and a lot less wasted product.