I can get a good deal on some nickel brass for my 300's. Is there and advantages to using it. and can I use my standard rcbs dies to size it

The only advantage is it looks nice. You can load it the same as a brass case. Some think nickle cases are harder on your dies, but I'm still not sold. BTW, I don't use nickle cases much in rifle but quite abit in pistol rounds.

I like nickel cases. You can use your regular dies, no issues. They tend to be a little more resilient, maybe a touch harder I guess and seem to 'spring back' slightly more than regular brass cases IME. They will NOT hurt your dies, I've seen a lot of folks speculate that the nickel can flake off and scratch your die--NO--nickel is softer than your die--

One advantage is that nickel plated cases don't tarnish like regular brass cases, and I know of some folks who hunt in extreme conditions a lot that won't hunt with anything but nickel plated cases.

I'd get some in a hearbeat if you feel it's a good value.

thanks I may just keep using regular brass

Have used lots of nickeled handgun brass ... no problem with carbide die sets. Looks kinda shabby when the nickel starts to wear off.

Use nickeled cases for some hunting loads that I expect to wag around the woods a lot. Works fine but does seem to be a bit "springy."

quote:

Originally posted by fredj338:
The only advantage is it looks nice. You can load it the same as a brass case. Some think nickle cases are harder on your dies, but I'm still not sold. BTW, I don't use nickle cases much in rifle but quite abit in pistol rounds.

Fred,

Might I suggest rephrasing that to "nickel plated rifle brass looks better TEMPORARILY"

with use the nickel gets as scratched up and eventually scratched through.

I found a great use for nickel plated brass, color coding "Warshots".

I tend to develop my hunting loads in plain brass, which I also practice with.
However for actual hunting I prefer using brass that's only been reloaded ONCE rather than half a dozen times.

the bright nickel cases are also easier to find when dropped.

In one specific case I use nickel plated brass for a specific rifle rather than a specific use.

I load "down" for my 30-06 semi-auto and I use nickel cases for that rifle so that I know they are loaded "specially". (165Accubond with 49gr of IMR4064 for about 2750fps.

AD

The Nickel plated is nicer for straight wall pistol than it is for bottleneck rifle handloads.

The problem is chamfering the inside of the mouth of the case.
It makes a rough edge at the edge of the Nickel. That can scratch the bullet when seated.
Just scratching a rifle bullet can change long range accuracy and number of shots before Copper fouling.

If you have some high speed abrasive chamfer, you may get away with it. I am still using the old Wilson chamfer and hand turning with my fingers.

quote:

Originally posted by tnekkcc:
The Nickel plated is nicer for straight wall pistol than it is for bottleneck rifle handloads.

The problem is chamfering the inside of the mouth of the case.
It makes a rough edge at the edge of the Nickel. That can scratch the bullet when seated.
Just scratching a rifle bullet can change long range accuracy and number of shots before Copper fouling.

Once that has happened die bodies get scratched too -especially around the neck.

It won't discolour in a leather cartridge belt. Other than that, its advantages/disadvantages are moot. I just don't like it. It's like gold "chrome" on a car. It just don't look right.

The only real Pro's

Don't tarnish in leather loop belts
Wont require tumbleing to clean

Everything else is asthetics.

I have lots of 357/38 nickel plated brass and have no problems with it, but I quit using it for bottleneck rifle cartridges. I have seen a 250/300 Savage M99 where it flaked off and embedded in the chamber, the gunsmith working on it wasn't too impressed. I sent several fired cases that were nickel plated, and a set of dies to RCBS for work, when returned there was a note included that said we DO NOT RECOMMEND NICKEL PLATED RIFLE BRASS, it should only be used with carbide dies. I have had the nickel flake off cases in just a few fireings, whenever I buy new anymore none of it is nickel, not even handgun brass.
The only advantage I can see is it is more resistant to corrosion.

In handgun, they crak or split soonner, are hard to sizing a really p...of ...s, Advantages ; None, only aesthetic, smoth feed ? I dont believe, keep in common brass cases. Luck.

Nickeled case are a lot easier to find on the ground after firing them. Other than that use them as you would any other case.

Nickel pistol brass is clearly easier to find in the grass. I've also had a terrible time with nickeled .38 Specials developing longitudinal splits after 2-3 reloads. No problems with nickel .45 ACP or .357.

quote:

Originally posted by bushwackr:
I can get a good deal on some nickel brass for my 300's. Is there and advantages to using it. and can I use my standard rcbs dies to size it

I've heard people say it flakes, have not seen that myself. I use them to color-code 6x45mm and .223 rounds.

This horse gets beaten regularly here on AR.

Nickel rifle brass can be loaded as you would any other brass. However, you must remember that if your resizing die works conventionally by pushing the neck through a smaller diameter hole to bring it back to dimension, then the scraping action of the die will eventually rub through the nickel. I mostly resize my nickel cases with a Lee Collet die. With this die or another that resizes by squeezing rather than by scraping, your nickeled brass will virtually never flake, at least not until it has been reloaded so many times that some other portion of the brass is ready for the junk pile. I have a couple of hundred .222 nickel cases I reload with a Lee Collet die that look as if they will last for several shooter's lifetimes.

I have come across some nickel plated brass (R-P) that has an inexplicable roughness to the interior of the neck. If you find some like this, wrap a piece of steel wool around an appropriate mandrel chucked in an electric drill and hone the neck interiors before reloading.

There are profligrate myths about nickeled brass damaging chambers and bores. Myths are all they are, but occasionally such myths gain new life by being "verified" by some shade tree "gunsmith" who's experience is largely limited to mounting scopes and wiping a coat of Tru Oil on a stock and calling it a refinish.

quote:

Originally posted by tnekkcc:

The problem is chamfering the inside of the mouth of the case.
It makes a rough edge at the edge of the Nickel. That can scratch the bullet when seated.

I am a complete rookie at reloading, so I have little credibility but ....

I only load cases and rarely resize and again load cases. With the Rem. nickle-plated 280 Rem. cases, it was difficult to get the neck expanded enough using the die to keep the case neck from shaving metal from the bullet when seated.

I finally figured it was not worth the hassle and went back to non-plated cases.

quote:

Originally posted by tnekkcc:

The problem is chamfering the inside of the mouth of the case.
It makes a rough edge at the edge of the Nickel. That can scratch the bullet when seated.

????

The inside neck chamfering with nickeled cases is no different from non-plated cases. The nickel plating is nowhere close to the bullet as it is seated, since it is only on the outside of the case and is only a couple of thousandths thick. It is possible that what tnekkcc has experienced is that nickeled brass tends to have more springback than unplated brass. Thus the necks may not be expanded sufficiently by the standard expander plug -- therby the bullet encounters excessive resistance to seating and potential abrasion to the shank as it is seated.

Utilizing a Lee Collet die, the potential problem is just the opposite and necks may not be tight enough due to springback. The solution is to hone the mandrel a few thousandths smaller (or order a custom one from Lee) in order to achieve the desired bullet tension.