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Are there any fire-forming experts here experienced with fire-forming cases which are shorter than the chamber? I have read suggestions such as "Just shoot them - they'll fill the chamber". Perhaps so, but not after just one shot. Seems like it would take at least one more, if not two. There was also a suggestion to overload with a slow burningpowder, allowing the bullet to set firmly on the powder with the bullet being firmly seated in the lands. Perhaps, but sounds a little dangerous to me. Would there be a chance of too much pressure buildup if I did the following which would not allow the firing pin to move the case forward prior to ignition?: Neck size a trimmed .270 case down to .25 just up to the point the unsized portion would not allow the overlength case to move any further forward than is needed to close | ||
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Anything but an expert, but this is how I fireformed 19-223 from 223 brass. Sized the neck down to 19 but left a secondary shoulder to force the brass against the bolt. I've been told you can't be sure that jamming a bullet will force the case against the bolt. I fireformed using the "cream of wheat" method and it works just fine. | |||
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" Sized the neck down to 19 but left a secondary shoulder to force the brass against the bolt." Thanks, Stan, When you speak of a secondary shoulder, is Hmmm....19/223? The Calhoun round? Right | |||
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one of us |
I guess it depends on how close the formed case is to the chamber. I neck-up 5.56 to make 7TCU. Fire-forming straightens the case body a little and blows the neck angle out to 40 degress (without checking, I think that's correct). I load formed brass the same as fire-formed. I can't detect enough difference in performance to try anything different. Eddie | |||
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In fire forming 303 Epps from std 303British, I just fired normal factory or normal reloaded 303 cases, about 1% failure rate (split neck). | |||
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