Hi all,
First time user of this board. Here is my dilema: I am getting back into reloading and want to reload for the 7mm Rem Mag. My objective is to produce the most accurate loads I can for an upcoming elk hunt. The rifle is a Browning SS Stalker. I get 1 to 1-1/2 inch groups using Federal Premium 160 grain Nosler partition ammo.
I have approximatly 300 once fired rounds fired through this rifle. Of course I will clean the cases, debur the primer pockets, and chamfer the neck openings.
In order of importance how would you all rate the following.
outside neck turning the cases
weighing and batching the empty cases
weighing and batching bullets
putting loaded rounds through a runout tool
neck sizing vs full length resizing
I look forward to hearing from more knowledgable reloaders than myself. Thanks, Steve

Steve, Of all the things you listed, there is only one that I would do and that is since the brass is "once fired" in that rifle, I'd neck size it and load it! As far as "segregating it" it would only be segregated by "brands" and then I would test the brand vs brand with my loads in that rifle. As far as bullet choices go, the Sierra 160 grain HP GAMEKING, the 160 GRANDSLAM, the whatever premium bullet you want to go with will work fine if you do your part and place the shot! Neck turning on a factory chamber would be a waste of time! Weighing any of the premium bullets to be used in factory chamber would be a waste of time and about the same for the other things mentioned! NS will get you a bit more accurracy and consistency in velocity out of your factory rifle and in my opinion is the only worthwhile endeavor of any mentioned. But that's my opinion and you know what they're like! Good luck on the hunt! Hope you got a wall big enough to hang one on! GHD

Steve,
I have the same rifle as yours. I've tuned the trigger to 3#'s crisp and have a Leupold 3-9 mounted on it with Leupold QR rings and mounts.
Of those things you've mentioned I'm in agreement with GHD. I find that headspacing from the shoulder is a little better than from the belt. I have my die set to just lightly touch the shoulder. It seems to help the round chamber without any resistance.
I keep my cases sorted by brand and lot. For hunting I don't feel sorting by weight provides any realized advantage.
I've loaded Nosler 160gr Partitions, Speer 160 Mag Tips & 175 G.S. and Rem 175 PSPCL's in Rem, Win and Hornady cases with WLRM primers and H870 powder. Accuracy has been under an inch with all with velocity over 3K fps. I found seating depth (free-bore) has a mark effect on accuracy. Mine likes between .015 and .020" free-bore and they all pattern an inch or less at 100 yards.
I would not hesitate to use any of the bullets I've listed for Elk. My preference being the Speer M.T. and G.S.
If you can't find any H870 I recommend choosing another slow burn rate powder. I've considered RL25 but haven't tried any yet. I'm satisfied with H870 and have an adequate supply so haven't seen the need.
Good luck.
Bill

I concur. Of all the things you've listed, the only thing to watch is during resizing to set your die so the shoulder is not set back at all. I generally resize only about 2/3 of the neck on once-fired cases, just enough to give a firm grip on the bullet.

The business of grouping bullets by weight, cases by weight, outside neck turning, etc., etc. is generally not going to improve the way a hunting rifle shoots enough to fool with. However, if you have a lot of time and enjoy doing such things, try all of them with a small batch of brass then see if the rifle shoots enough better to justify the extra work.

Yup, agree with the above. My powder of choice for the 7Mag is R-22 with mag primers. The Nosler 160 Partition is an excellent/dependable choice.

WN

I will go w/ the R22 also. W/ 160 grners and 66 grn. R22 my Rem 700 w/ 24" tube shoots great groups. (MV= 3080-3100 fps)

Reloader

Agreeing with the above I would mention that the best load for that rifle may still not shoot as well as you want. That of course is because there are other major factors such as the bedding, loose or defective sights and the barrel.



There is still time to take a close look at these and be working on a back up rifle as well.



Since it's elk hunting your loading for I would start by trying premium bullets first.



By the way, welcome to AR.

I totally agree with GHD. The only thing I'd do is neck size 'em, which I do with a Lee Collet Sizing Die. Turn the cases and size 'em twice. I also use the Lee Factory Crimp Die, every time. That always starts an argument, but in all of my rifles it produces small improvements in accuracy, velocity consistency, and even a slight increase in velocity. If you're willing to go to the trouble of doing all that benchrest-type stuff you mentioned (I'm not), you surely won't object to cycling your loaded rounds through the action to make sure they're not a too-tight fit.

Excellent point Ricochet, It is always a good idea to cycle the cases and make sure the shoulder isn't touching.

I usually run them through my Collet die and then use a redding die to bump the shoulders down a bit.

It sure is a pain if you neck size, load them, and find out that they barely fit.

Reloader

segregating cases by weight is a waste of time,...segregating by internal powder capacity is another story. Weighing bullets means nothing unless they are already seperated by bearing surface length. Also,..if they are hollow points and have not had the meplats trimmed to uniform the lengths,..then you are weighing objects that are all not the same length,..same goes for lead tipped bullets. Turning necks in factory chambers to me,..does make a difference due to the fact I use bushing dies and can get far more consistent neck tension, and therefore lower ES in my loads which WILL show up on paper as the distance gets to 300yds and beyond.

That all being said,..if you are shooting at something as large as the game you are going after,..there is little reason to spend that much time at the loading bench. I don't like partitions at all,..have never gotten them to do better than 1moa. Now,..the interbonds and accubonds would be my first choice to determine accuracy,..as both are more than tough enough to handle elk. Shoot whichever premium bullet/powder recipe groups best. Brass doesn't matter much, if you simply pick one lot,..and work exclusively with only that lot/brand. Do not intermix the headstamps.

RL22 and IMR7828 as well as H1000 will get those 160gr pills moving fast and accurate.

The rest have given you good advice. For elk, choose a good bullet, I like Nosler partitions & you can get under 1MOA if your rifle is up to it. I like RL22 or IMR7828 under the 160grNP for just under 3100fps. Work up your load w/ whatever magnum primer you like & then give the Fed. magnum match primer a try & see if groups tighten a bit. 1-1 1/2MOA is going to put your elk away out to 400yds if you can do your part.

Thank you all for the excellent advice. It looks like I will be saving alot of time in this project especcially since I use a balance beam scale (10-10 RCBS). I have had great results with the Nosler brand bullets in all my rifles, wich is my first choice. Also going to try Barnes Triple Shock for accuracy. My rifle action has been glass bedded. The Scope is a Leopold vari-X III 3.5x10.