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Re: Military brass
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I just use the Lee decapper on 30-06 in a Pacific 07 press.
Takes a little force and I have broken one pin. I think Lee sells a hand decapper that made for this.
 
Posts: 449 | Location: GA, USA | Registered: 13 March 2001Reply With Quote
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Lee sells decapping punches and bases for both 5.56 and 7.62 brass.



They work absolutely great, and dollar-wise are dirt cheap. I have been using both for well over 35 years and have never come close to breaking either.



To use, pick up a piece of brass with the weak hand, and with the strong hand insert the punch through the neck. Because the body of the punch is just small enough to fit through the case neck, the punch pin will almost automatically go into the primer pocket flash hole with little or no fumbling. With the punch fully inserted into the primer pocket flash hole, set the whole assembly (punch and case) on top of the punch base, case down, punch base up. (Lee supplies these bases as part of the punch kit.) Tap the base of the punch with a plastic-faced hammer...Voila!, out comes the primer.



The plastic-faced hammer keeps the punch base from peening during long years of constant use.



If you have a lathe, you can make the whole assembly yourself out of cold-rolled steel bar stock, turning the bar down to proper diameter for insertion into the case neck, and using piano wire inserted in a hole in the end of the bar as the punch pin.



Have fun



Alberta Canuck

 
Posts: 9685 | Location: Cave Creek 85331, USA | Registered: 17 August 2001Reply With Quote
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Question Oh Wise Ones:
I know I'll have to ream the military crimp out, no problem there. But how in the heck do you decap the stuff to begin with? I have tried my regular dies, and a Lee universal decapper, and I ain't having much luck.
 
Posts: 609 | Location: South-central KS | Registered: 22 September 2004Reply With Quote
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I've decapped military brass with regular dies and the Lee universal decapping die. Never had a problem. I'll second the idea to check it for possibly being Berdan primed.

Rick
 
Posts: 178 | Location: North Alabama | Registered: 15 June 2002Reply With Quote
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Quote:

I don't think it makes any difference (boxer vs. Berdan) when you reprime, unless the anvil for the primer is in the primer pocket in a Berdan case. Anybody know for sure?




I've converted many berdan primed cases to boxer configuration and reprimed w/ std. primers. There is a small amount of the berdan anvil left, but it doesn't seem to affect anything. I feel, however, that I should mention that these were cases that I use for recreational shooting and not for serious load development.
 
Posts: 234 | Location: 40 miles east of Dallas | Registered: 21 December 2002Reply With Quote
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You also need to look inside the case to make sure it is not berdan primed.
 
Posts: 7786 | Location: Between 2 rivers, Middle USA | Registered: 19 August 2000Reply With Quote
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I don't think it makes any difference (boxer vs. Berdan) when you reprime, unless the anvil for the primer is in the primer pocket in a Berdan case. Anybody know for sure?
 
Posts: 2758 | Location: Fernley, NV-- the center of the shootin', four-wheelin', ATVin' and dirt-bikin' universe | Registered: 28 May 2003Reply With Quote
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ASS-CLOWN,

I`m using Berdan primed brass, maybe my description above was a bit confusing, sorry about that. When trying to describe something my missus tells me I go on a bit too much. oops there I go again.

Cheers Morton3
 
Posts: 124 | Location: Newcastle Australia | Registered: 23 September 2004Reply With Quote
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