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| One of Us |
Just purchased a set of Redding Titanium Carbide dies for my as of yet purchased Ruger 40 S&W carbine. Read the literatue that accompanied the dies and found out you aren't suppose to full length resize the brass with the resizing die. Now I'm not an expert pistol reloader but I have reloaded for a 45 ACP and thought you were to always full length resize the brass. Now that I have found out otherwise, just how much of the pistol case should I be resizing? I am guessing just enough to cover the distance the bullet sits in the case. Is this a correct assumption on my part? Any thoughts from experienced pistol reloaders would be greatly appreciated. | ||
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One of Us |
While it is true that brass lasts longer the less you work it, I tend to full-length resize all pistol cases. I like pistol ammo that is loose enough to drop freely all the way into the chambers without any force other than gravity having to be applied. "Bitte, trinks du nicht das Wasser. Dahin haben die Kuhen gesheissen." | |||
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| one of us |
I always full length resize. You will then have ammunition that you know will work. A Lee Carbide Factory Crimp Die will assure that all of your ammo chambers. If it goes thru the die, it will go into your chamber. I'm not sure however that these are avaliable in auto pistol calibers that headspace on the case mouth. For revolver loads, they are the only way to go. billt. | |||
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one of us |
Is your information that came with the dies a type that covers both rifle and pistol if so it will explain the confusing instructions? I always full length resize pistol ammo. I use Redding on most all of my rifle reloading, but I use Dillon Precision carbide dies on my pistol ammo. I like the way they come apart to clean without having to reset the dies each time. Swede --------------------------------------------------------- NRA Life Member | |||
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Moderator |
FL size them. You want reliable feeding and fl sizing assures that. I've re-sized brass countless times with some of the highest pressure pistol rounds and almost always when case failures occur, it is a small crack at the case mouth where the case is belled and crimped, as that part of the brass is worked the most. I did have some nickle 357 cases that split down the side on sizing, but somehow they had become brittle, and it was after running max loads through them. Bell the cases just enough to smoothly seat bullets and don't go with a gorilla crimp and you should get 20 or more reloads through your brass. __________________________________________________ The AR series of rounds, ridding the world of 7mm rem mags, one gun at a time. | |||
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| One of Us |
I don't think so. The instructions pertaining to not going all the way down on resizing the case came from a small printed insert that looks like it was meant for the pistol dies. I say this because the more in depth instructions have a picture of a 2 die rifle set and it uses the word 'rifle' many times instead of 'rifle/pistol' or just 'pistol' when explaining the set-up and use of the dies. | |||
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| One of Us |
I use the Redding Titanium Carbide dies for .357 and 9mm. It is important that the carbide ring in the die does not touch the shell holder during the resizing operation or you run the risk of cracking it. I adjust the die so that there is some clearance between the shell holder and the die. This will result in an area just above the case rim that does not get re-sized. I have not found this to be a problem. I would suggest that you try this and then check to see how the brass chambers. Straight walled pistol cases are not like bottleneck cartridges in that a shoulder doesn't have to be bumped back. So "full- length" re-sizing is sort of a misnomer. | |||
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