hello all

Since i have joined I have found this site to have some of the best advise on the net, I am on ar15.com glocktalk, predatormasters, rimfire central and a few other texas related boards, but this one has the most sound advise on a reg basis, with that I come with yet another question

I want to get into reloading but have never done it, nor do I know a whole lot, I shoot enough that it would prolly save me 100 bucks or more a month. Anyways

I want to get into reloading and was curious what would be a good "starter set up" for a guy like me, IM a college student right now, so I am "not a oaf" and have a Mec Eng minor, but I dont know much about the world of reloading and would love some advise, who should i buy from RCBS, Lee, etc, and is midway usa got the best prices? any other things I need to be condisering that I am overlooking? I shoot both rifle and shotgun (sporting clays) every week, usually sunday at Dallas Gun club so I burn more shotshells then rifle rounds but the rifle ammo I shoot is pricy, and have decided reloading is the next step, so guys any thoughts?
edited because I thought of a few more things, would a single stage be better for starting off with, and what is the basics i will need, price ranges, well i guess suggest away

I started with a rcbs master kit it is a great way to get going and it is quality stuff. I have other stuff now but still have not set it up.

Any of the starter kits will do you well...I like RCBS...

Start cheap...save the money for beer (I still remember my college days...most of them anyway!)

What calibers are you looking into loading? Pick a caliber and load it exclusively for a while. Obviously economies of scale kick in, so start with whatever you shoot the most if you are looking to save money. Lots of people here can suggest powders and bullets to start with...the experimentation eats of LOTS of time and $$$...but it sure is fun!

Buy a reloading manual and read about reloading. You should eventually have several of them so you can cross reference. I also recommend a RCBS press and reloading kit. The RCBS warranty and customer support are excellent and the equipment is top notch. You will also need a set of Calipers and a brass trimmer device.

To start, the most important aspect to understand about this hobby, is figuring out what you DON'T NEED!


What you do need. A list I generated when I set up a friend's reloading bench last Spring, prefered and cost effective brand is listed:


Lyman Tumbler
Lyman Tumbler Media
Lyman Media Polish
Lyman Dial Calipers
Lee Powder Funnel
Lee Chamfer Tool
Lee Pocket Cleaner
Lee Shell Holders
Lee Cutter/Lock std
Lee Universal charging die
Lee Turret Press
Lee Extra turret
Lee Universal Loading Block
Lee Sizing Lube
Redding Rifle Dies or Lee carbide pistol dies
RCBS Bullet Puller
manuals (You can get most of the manufacturers loading info you need off the net, but it is better to have books)
Hornady or RCBS Hand Primer
Lyman/RCBS Digital Scale/Dispenser (This is one of those purchases that looks like over kill, but is a godsend for a newand old reloader. I had a balance beam scale for about 5 minutes and knew I needed a digital set)


I tell everyone who starts up to get a Lee Turret press. Lee makes SOME chincy equipment, but they did right with the turret press, and they make good little accessories. I bought one 5 years ago, and wish I would have got it alot sooner. It beats starting out with a single stage hands down. You set your dies in the turret, and you just rotate the dies around to perform the verious functions. All you have to do is measure your dies once, then you can remove the entire turret from the press and install a different caliber turret. Saves alot of time by not having to reset and measure every time you switch dies.

I also recommend the RCBS hand primer with the strips, or the Hornady hand primer. They have a "pliers" like grip and saves your hand from fatigue.

I bought all Lee dies when I started. The collet die produces some great neck sized cases, but the neck tension on the collet dies is almost non-existent. I have over the years replaced everything with Redding dies.

Redding (series A), RCBS, Hornady (New Dimension) dies are what I recommend. I like Redding for their uniform neck tension, minimal bullet run-out, and the seater die has a roll crimp feature within the die. The neck die gives great neck tension, but I give a very slight roll crimp to all of my rounds for cosmetic purposes "finishing touch".

Save your dies and clean your cases with a tumbler/vibrator, I have a Lyman "Turbo" with a feature that allows me to pull a plug and dump my media into a bowl when I'm finished, rather than having to pick through all the media for my rounds. Makes for a clean and troublesome set-up.

You dont need a tumbler. I dont have a tumbler and ive reloaded rifle for 10 years.

RCBS master kit. Has everything you need. I got mine for around $220 from Cabelas. Its probably alittle more now.

As I remember I got the master reloading kit then a hand primer seating tool and calipers. Get your dies and shell holder for your caliber and your "stylin it"!


Or you can buy everything seperate and waste your money.

How's this for cheap...
I bought a Lee aniversary kit to see if I enjoyed reloading enough to stick with it (I do). But I outgrew it quickly. So if you pay for shipping and a couple of beers I'll send you what I've got duplicates of now. You'll need a powderscale and a funnel, dies and a shell holder to start loading.

I've got a tumbler and use it but it certainly should be the last thing on your list (after more beer even)

My advice as far as loading would be to stick with book listed loads for a while, and experiment AFTER you've got a lot of experience.

You can contact me at ww111@yahoo.com

thanks for the info guys

Collins, I sent ya an email


ok so next question, and forgive me if it seems obvious and or dumb, but if I get an RCBS kit, will I be able to use, say Lee or Hornady dies it in? Im assuming they will co-exist and work in each press, but I wasnt sure if they were like computers, apples and uh PCs where one wont swap parts with another, so to speak. Also, I would start reloading both 12 ga and my big bore rifle rounds, partly because I shoot so much sporiting clays, Im sick of going out to buy a case, this would save time and be a ton of fun. As for the book, who makes the most easy user friendly, and "new to the reloading" book out there, in other words whos book wont use jargon which will confuse me?

One other tip. You may find (especially in handgun loads) a very small range between starting weight of powder and maximum weight. Example: In my .38sp loads, we are talking about between 5.0 and 5.3 grains of smokeless powder (and .3 grains ain't much room to play around with) so make sure you get a GOOD scale. And as electric digitals tend to "walk around" with room temp and air flow, use a beam scale to double check your powder weights.
Never forget that too much (or too little) powder in your load can mean a gun exploding in your hand!

You probably need a seperate setup for shotgun reloading. Some of the single stage presses can be adapted for shotgun use, but I have never heard of anyone actually doing it, so I can't comment...

Dies are standard and usable in virtually everyone else's presses...until you get really exotic like 50BMG and such. Some presses have quick change sleeves (Hornady Lock-N-Load) that are added to a regular die set.

The bullet makers manuals are my favorite, and the more different bullets they make the more loads they are likely to have...start with Sierra, it is the standard others are judged by, but don't stop at 1, and cross reference your loads via the powder manufacturers websites, misprints happen! The Nosler manual is popular too, but as they specialize in hunting bullets they do not have as many weights and calibers as Sierra with their competition bullets.

CAUTION: RELOADING IS HABIT FORMING! YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED! SOON YOU WILL BE SHOOTING JUST TO HAVE EMPTY BRASS TO RELOAD!

Well, maybe that's just me....Have fun!

my suggestion is the lee 4 hole turret press, then later you will have a better idea about a second press; and the turret press will give you additional flexibility. lee case trimmer, priming tool, six inch steel caliper, i use dillions, a mechanical scale by redding, hornady, rcbs with 3 poise instead of 2, and a set of check weights by rcbs or lyman. spray lube for loading rifle cases, and 2 or 3 case holders or home made. a powder measure, hornady rcbs, redding. as with any hobby you will see a need for more and more equipment enjoy.

I recommend getting a RCBS Rock chucker press and Redding Dies slow but will last a lifetime like others have said the trick is to learn what not to buy there is a lot of junk out there. You can't have too many reloading manuals I try to get one from each company and never get rid of an old one. They are excellent for cross referencing and reloading information.

Getting started in reloading can be frustrationg if you let a lot of the Idiots in the "sale all" stores try to sell you a million things you really don't need. And don't hold your head low just because some one states theat his Dillon is a lot better than the cheaper one you have. It may be but if you don't need it don't get it. Talk to some dependable reloaders that are not just tryin gto impress you, but those that really like to help and see you get going. There is some really good info already mentioned and all sounds real soild. One thing I would recomend that you start off with is an electronic measuring scale. It isn't altogether necessary but man is it easier and to get the 1/10 grain movements in a load later on when you get real serious it is the only way to go. I used the old manual scale for a long time but they didn't have the small effecient and low cost electronic scales they have now.

Here's a guide that I and others on the NAHC website came up with for newbies that ask questions just like this one.

Another vote for a Lee 4 hole press for a beginner:
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=622290
It allows you to see each operation seperately, but when used in the auto index mode, it is quite fast. Some don't like the priming set-up it has, so an addition of the Lee auto prime is a good idea;
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=807875
And a shell holder for each caliber for the auto prime, a kit is available for the most popular calibers;
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=566058

Extra turrets are nice, they allow you to set-up your dies once and leave them. Each new caliber goes in a new turret, eliminates unscrewing the dies each time.
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=206578

As for your shotgun loading, the best,(read ONLY), book out there is the Lyman shotshell handbook, the bible of shotgun reloaders;
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=961083


BASIC RELOADER RULES & REQUIREMENTS

1. Do you have the patience to do detailed work away from distractions, (TV, Children, guests)?
2. Do you have a secure area that can be dedicated strictly to a loading bench?
3. Do you thoroughly understand what goes on inside a cartridge when you pull the trigger?
4. Are you mechanically inclined? In other words can you understand and follow instructions exactly, to make needed adjustments to equipment? Do know how to use measurement tools such as calipers and micrometers?
5. Read the front sections of several reloading manuals. I suggest one manual, printed by a company that sells reloading equipment AND bullets. The other one should be by a company that sells only powder. Case in point Hornady then Hodgdon. After reading and understanding the “HOW TO†section in those manuals, find someone who already loads to show you how and talk you through a box of shells. Better yet find a NRA Metallic/Shotshell Reloading instructor and take a basic reloading class. See links below for locating an instructor.
6. Never be in a hurry. If you are pressed for time, this is when a mistake will be made.
7. Do not under any circumstances smoke, eat or drink, especially alcoholic beverages. The reasons are obvious, but I’ll state them anyway. Smokeless powder burns at a very high temperature; it makes a dandy accelerant to start a fire. Drinking causes loss of motor skills and judgment.
8. Wash hands thoroughly when you are through. You are dealing with lead in many forms when handling bullets and primers.
9. Walk before you run. Buy a single stage press to start out with. The progressives are neat and useful when doing large quantities of ammo. You will always have uses for the single stage loader for special loads later.
10. Stay with the basics at first. The tools for neck turning, flash hole uniforming, primer pocket uniforming and checking concentricity will be useful after you get some experience.
11. To start with, stay in the mid-range of the suggested loads for medium power levels. Save the maximum loads for when you have more experience.
12. Buy the best equipment you can afford. It will last a lifetime; the cheap stuff will wear out and need replacing.
13. Have ONLY the bullets, powder, primers and empties on the table that you are loading at that time. Put everything away as soon as you are done, in a separate place.
14. The only stupid question is one that doesn’t get asked. If you’re not sure, ask somebody. Use common sense, logic is a great tool for a Reloader.
15. Maintain a log of all loads developed with the test results. Label all boxes with the load data and date of the load.
16. Every Step is an inspection point.
17. The last thing you do before the bullet goes in " Look in every case to verify the powder charge".
18. Get a good pair of shooting/safety glasses and wear them whenever in the loading room.
Links for Reloading help and instructors

http://www.sierrabullets.com/ Bullet company, very good ballistic support group.
http://www.speer-bullets.com Bullet company
http://www.nosler.com/ Bullet company
http://www.hornady.com/ Bullet company
http://www.barnesbullets.com Bullet company
http://www.hodgdon.com Powder company
http://www.lapua.com VihtaVuori Powders
http://www.bluepress.com Dillon Loaders
http://www.mayvl.com/ Mec loaders
http://ww.sinclairintl.com/ Precision Reloading and Shooting specialist
http://www.lymanproducts.com All Lyman Products.
http://www.shooting-hunting.com Great hunting and shooting site with list of instructors
http://www.mynra.com/ NRA with links to NRA certified instructors



Basic steps to reloading. This is a short edited version from the "NRA GUIDE TO RELOADING".

There are 17 steps of which most are for both rifle and pistol and one for pistol only. This is will mark with an * .
1. Inspect cases,
2. Clean Cases
3.Organize cases by batches
4.Select proper shell holder
5.Insert and set up sizing die
6. Lubricate cases
7.Resize and deprime cases
8. Measure case length
9.Trim cases
10 Deburr and Chamfering
11.Clean Primer Pocket
12.Expand Case mouth (*)
13.Prime Cases
14.Measure powder chargeand charge cases
15.Check powder charge in case
16.Seat bullet in case
17. Identify the reloaded cartridges (Mark the box etc.)

Some of the guys here are making this out to be a lot more complicated then it is. The RCBS starter kit is a very good starting point, and if the Lyman reloading manuel is pretty much the way it was, the front of the book is very good at explaining the steps in putting together quality ammunition. It also explains some of the things not to do, a real good feature. The pictures in it are very enlightening if a few of the instructions are not clear. Feel free to ask any question that comes up on this forum, you may get a few deversafied answers, but the right one will be in there. Good luck and just be careful. Bob

guys, thanks a ton, this is really helping, im going out to get a reloading book now to read through it to familirize myself with the terms....damn I should be doing research tonite...but I guess I will be reading the sierra book....

Yeah, there are so many options out there it can be confusing to figure out what you need. When I started, I got the Metallic Cartidge Reloading book by Ed Matunas before buying any equipment, it goes into a lot of detail. Then, I got the RCBS Rock Chucker Supreme single stage press kit, Midway has it for $245.99 now, and it's been great! I also bought reloading manuals from Hornady and Nosler as I shoot them the most. I'd like to get a manual case trimmer (extra $80) but it's not essential...

If you want to start off with very little investment, do what I did 40 yrs ago. Buy a Lee press. Buy Lee dies for the calibers you reload, you don't need a scale, they come with dippers (and load data). An inside/outside neck chamfer tool. I'd recommend a loading manual from one of the major powder/bullet mfgs. To start that's all you really need. Actually, my first handloads were assembled with Lee Loaders, I still have them, I still use them on occasion, and they work just fine.

Lotsa good advice so far. If $$ are an issue then get Lee. It will load really good ammo. Other presses/kits cost more, but they don't necessarily do it better. They'll run a bit smoother, but that's about it. Unless you are an anal freak about accuracy, then various dies and gadgets/tools come into play.

It would help to know what your goals are at this point and whether or not you have more long term goals, and also what's your budget. With your rifle, .223 sized cases only or bigger? Is max accuracy your goal, or good plinking ammo? It all relates to what you'll need along the way.

Shotgun is completely differnt setup.

ok now that I have done some reading and research, here is my current situation, in terms of money I would be willing to drop to see if I enjoy this, which by the way I think I would, I love working with my hands and specific alterations are a joy, anyways i would dedicated 400-500 dollars to getting set up, including getting a bench and the holders etc, now for the money I would like a solid press I could use for calibers in the following rounds, 22-250 (i guide Dog hunts in Central Neb, also I am an accuracy freak), 375 HH (I go to college in Dallas, and hunt in Albany, where the piggies get BIG) and 458 SOCOM, used to disable cars, helicopters and uh well anything that bleeds, also and I understand shotgun is a different deal, so disregarding shotgun reloading, what would be the best bang for the buck within my set price range of 400-500 bucks? keep the suggestions coming I truly appriciate all this guys, also Any of you going to be at the Dallas market Hall gun show saturday or sunday? I would love to chat about this in person

Buy or build a good, stiff bench. That will run $100-150.

That's still going to leave a nice budget which is a good thing. Given your calibers listed I'd recommend a good single stage kit. The single stage won't allow massive production, but it doesn't sound like the calibers you list would drive production, except for maybe the 22-250, but then you also want accuracy for that round, so a SS press would be preferred over a progressive.

RCBS and Redding have good kits, Lee's will serve just fine and leave you some $$$ left over for manuals and components, although you'd have to send a trimmed SOCOM case to them to grind you a trimmer pilot.

If you decide to buy everything a la carte, then make sure you get a measure capable of throwing a decent charge of powder for your .375, i.e., don't get a measure that max's out at 60 grains or so (some Reddings, Lee pistol measure).

Lee dies are a good value, but again, not sure if they (or who for that matter) makes SOCOM dies. For your 22-250, since accuracy is a prime goal you may want to consider Redding or Forester, but a match die set (bushing sizer, sliding sleeve seater) can run you some bucks. A good setup for cheaper would be a Lee Collet neck sizer, a Redding Body Die and a Forester BR seater. That setup will cost around $65 or so, which is pretty reasonable.

Must Haves:

Case Cleaning System Either a tumbler w/ walnut or corn cob media and sifter, or a liquid immersion type system, e.g., IOOSO. The goal isn't to make case like-new shiny, but to clean grunge off of them. Your dies will thank you for that.

Case Prep Tools (trimmer, chamfer and deburring tool, dial caliper).

Press

Dies (w/ shellholders for each case; either a FL sizer or a Body die and Neck sizer in combination, and a seater. If using a press mounted powder dispenser, then you'll need a die to mount your powder dispenser on)

Case Lube Aerosol sprays, pump sprays, waxes, whatever

Priming Tool (either hand held or make sure your press incorporates a built in priming arm. Having said that, I still like a hand held, and while maybe not a must have, it's high on the list of nice-to-haves)

Powder Scale To check your dispensed/thrown charges

Powder Dispenser Maybe not a must have, but then the alternative is to weight every single charge which will send you to the looney bin in time. If you decide to weigh charges, then at least get a Lee Dipper kit which are a set of calibrated volumetric dippers. Unless you are simply lucky, you probably won't be able to nail your target charge with one of these dippers, but when used in combination you should be able to get pretty close. Then using your scale and trickler, trickle up to your target weight.

Powder funnel and powder trickler (if weighing each charge)

Case Blocks/Trays to stand cases up in. Make sure that the holes/squares will handle the case head sized you've listed

Manual or three

Get a manual. I recommend the Lyman manual as it contains cast and jacketed info and data. You might want to consider getting into casting. It contains shotgun data as well. You cant go wrong buying RCBS--they stand behind it forever.