When you use wax instead of liquid or spray lube, how do you lube the inside of the neck?

since I wash my cases in Gasoline or acetone after sizing and then tumble them over night I use a "Q-Tip" and just slightly dab a bit inside the case mouth about one every six to ten cases....it works for me.

Keep the Q-Tip lightly waxed is all it takes

I've used Midway's neck cleaning/lube kit for some 15 years now, completely satisfied. It has 4 fiber bristle bore brushes and a small resivour for a while mica powdered lube. IF I ever run out of the powdered lube I'll try powdered graphite.

Imperial sizing wax also makes a graphite inside the neck dry lube. Redding and MidwayUSA sell them both.

I wipe my fingers in wax, then smear it on a few random case mouths. Then I smear wax on an RCBS brush, then brush all the necks.

I usually leave any residual in the case. If I tumble after sizing, the left over wax catches some walnut, so I wipe it out with a q-tip after tumbling.

Lately, I have been using pure lanolin nipple cream. Works the same as imperial, and we had it on hand.

I smear it on a cleaning patch and wrap the patch to a nylon cleaning brush. Once in and out and there's no excess.

Thanks, I'm going to have to try it. I'm not a fan of the lube pad, or the sprays for that matter.

You are wise to avoid glopping up your cases with useless potions and snake oils. Frankford arsenal will sell you a jar of fine ground mica (AKA white graphite) that Will last and last and last and last..................

Q-Tip

I tried Midway's mica...still got the dreaded 'eeeekkk' when pulling out the neck expander. Imperial dry neck lube never makes a sound.

quote:

Originally posted by onefunzr2:
I tried Midway's mica...still got the dreaded 'eeeekkk' when pulling out the neck expander. Imperial dry neck lube never makes a sound.

I too have used mica, Imperial and RCBS case lube.
I am now wondering if some lubes are "too slick" and if any residue exists after resizing if it could negatively affect bullet tension and consiquently accuracy (actually precision)?

Just how slick does it really need to be? I would think neck lube only needs to be slick enough to keep the metal from being galled, and no more.

I don't think I would use graphite. Graphite adheres to some metals so well it is tough to remove.

I too only lube about every tenth case with Imperial (or RCBS).

quote:

Originally posted by ted thorn:
Q-Tip

+1

muck

quote:

Originally posted by onefunzr2:
I tried Midway's mica...still got the dreaded 'eeeekkk' when pulling out the neck expander. Imperial dry neck lube never makes a sound.

Yah, that!
Mica never worked too well IMO either.

quote:

Originally posted by onefunzr2:
I tried Midway's mica...still got the dreaded 'eeeekkk' when pulling out the neck expander. Imperial dry neck lube never makes a sound.

Get a carbide expander ball and you won't have the dreaded squeeeeeeeek anymore.

quote:

Originally posted by vapodog:
since I wash my cases in Gasoline or acetone after sizing... takes

You stink.

A guy I hunt with uses carburetor cleaner as bug spray in his house, while I am breathing there.

quote:

Originally posted by Flippy:
I don't think I would use graphite. Graphite adheres to some metals so well it is tough to remove.

Gunpowder granules are dusted with graphite to deter static...that's why most are the very dark color...not because of their composition, but because of the graphite coating.

I'm sure some folks have tried everything under the sun as a resizing or neck lubricant. I happen to have had great results with Imperial's products. As they're so economical, the supply I now have on hand will probably last for the rest of my days.

Tapered expanders seem to work well, too. I have not tried normal shaped expander balls made from carbide.

I use the Q-tip too when using Imperial.