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Necking down 6.5mm-284 to 6mm-284 questions.
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Right now my issue is with brass forming, I bought a box of Lapua 6.5/284 just to eliminate variables in the (sketchy) brass I got with the gun. Now the die set (that came with the gun) isn't performing like I think it should. Its a Redding Competition Series, I have a body die, a body/neck die w/bushing, and a seating die. Redding tells me I need to run them through the Body die first, then the B/NK die. The body die only takes the neck down .005 but I guess its something. The B/NK die does a decent job of necking down but doesnt take it all the way to the shoulder, I'd say its about .040 from doing the job right. The mic head on the die has travel left but the die bottoms out internally.

I need to start making brass, what dies work best when necking down? What methods work best?

This is the first time I've done brass work like this so I may be the one messing it up, but I really think this die set is my problem.

HELP HELP!!
 
Posts: 42 | Location: Iowa | Registered: 10 April 2012Reply With Quote
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How about the OAL of the case? Might need to be trimmed. Just thinking out loud.


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Posts: 668 | Location: Hastings, Michigan | Registered: 23 April 2007Reply With Quote
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Here is an idea that may give you what you need, but first...when sizing die is screwed down, does it touch the shellholder? Second, if the die IS touching the shellholder when setting up, while sizing full-length, does the die touch the shellholder? If not, spring in the press is not allowing you full-length sizing of the case.

Remove the case. Run the ram all the way up. Screw the die in so that it is firmly against the shellholder. Lower the ram slightly. Turn the sizing die in about a quarter turn. Size a lubed case and see if the sizing die is touch the shellholder. If not, turn it in sightly until it does. This might get it done.

On the above, ensure that the case is not being over-sized for your chamber. Check this thoroughly so you don't create excessive headspace.


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Posts: 3490 | Location: Colorado Springs, CO | Registered: 04 April 2003Reply With Quote
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Follow Redding's advise, they do know what they are talking about.
Most neck sizing dies do not resize the full length of the neck. This by design. Whether this is a good or bad thing is open to debate.
The idea of neck only sizing is to squeeze the neck to hold a new bullet without disturbing the "fireformed" fit of the case to the rifle's chamber.

Resizing your 6.5/284 cases to 6/284 is entry level wildcat caseforming. Easily done!
The reason for the recomended two step procedure is to ease the diameter down. Thus reducing the chance of crushing a neck or crumpling a shoulder. Lapua brass is a little pricy, be a shame to lose some to being in a rush.

After you reform the neck take an empty unprimed case and chamber it in your rifle. the bolt should close with normal, or just slightly more effort.
If this is so then load up fireforming loads and go shooting. Do keep an eye on pressure signs.
Reloading your fireformed cases, use the neck bushing die only.
The body die is for bumping the shoulder back on the 6/284cases and will not touch the neck on the 6/284 case.

I would measure several fireformed necks and get an average outside diameter of the fired case neck.
This is your chamber neck diameter(less the brass springback). Keep this number.

Now neck size a few cases. Seat bullets in an otherwise empty case. Measure the "loaded" case neck diameter. Average this number. Check the "loaded" average case neck diameter vs. the fireformed average neck diameter. The number you kept above.

The "loaded" diameter should be at least .002" less.
If not you will need to turn the case necks. This would necessary to insure bullet release.

This is not likely needed in a factory chambered gun. But it should be checked for safety.

I know I have thrown a lot at you. If you have any questions PM me

muck
 
Posts: 1052 | Location: Southern OHIO USA | Registered: 17 November 2001Reply With Quote
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You just need to get a FL die or a trim die to move that last .040. Another thought is the Hornady universal neck die if it is large enough.

There is noting tricky about what you are doing except the trick Redding dies can't do it.
Just get a Redding or RCBS FL die. After one use you should be able to go back to the trick dies.
 
Posts: 13978 | Location: http://www.tarawaontheweb.org/tarawa2.jpg | Registered: 03 December 2008Reply With Quote
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I already ordered a FL die, the only one I could find on the shelf was a Lee, but it should do the job. The others had a wait time I couldnt deal with.

I do plan on neck sizing only once the brass shot.
 
Posts: 42 | Location: Iowa | Registered: 10 April 2012Reply With Quote
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Dies came in today, I am now making some very nice 6mm-284 brass.
 
Posts: 42 | Location: Iowa | Registered: 10 April 2012Reply With Quote
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Let us know how they work.
 
Posts: 13978 | Location: http://www.tarawaontheweb.org/tarawa2.jpg | Registered: 03 December 2008Reply With Quote
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Ok, out of 100 I'm only out 3 cases, one has a small crack starting right at the mouth, I think it was probably there before going through the die but I just made it stand out. I lost another to concentricity, its not getting pitched yet just set aside for now. The last one collapsed the shoulder and neck, its scrap.

This was using Hornady's Unique case lube, and I think it did a good job.

I dont know if this is normal or not but I ran them all through the FL die twice, one pass didnt seem to get the necks sized quite right. The second pass put the neck OD right at .275-.2755 which should work just fine in my chamber, I should only have to neck turn if I get some more with concentricity problems.
 
Posts: 42 | Location: Iowa | Registered: 10 April 2012Reply With Quote
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