I found crimping straight walled pistol brass a real pain with the RCBS seater/crimper die, so a friend recomended I try the Lee factory crimp die. I'm so impressed with the ease of it I'm inclined to try it on bottle-necked rifle brass, like my .300 WBY mag and .223, which I normally don't crimp. Any comments?
I started using the crimp die as many people on this board said it would help the bullet stay put under heavy recoil, AND help with accuracy. I found that it helped in both cases just as I was told. I will now use one on all my calibers.
I use the Lee crimper on my 30/30 cartridges. They must be crimped,and are crimped into a cannelure in the bullet. It works better then anything that I tried before. I am not sure that it would be better on a bullet without a cannelure. I am still using taper or profile crimpers on them.
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Posts: 202 | Location: Newburgh,New York Orange | Registered: 21 March 2001
Sorry to jump in on this but I also am thinking about the fac crimp. Question,can one be used for all my .30s 30-30,308,30-06 or does it take a different one for each. Thanks 3006va
[This message has been edited by 3006va (edited 10-26-2001).]
Posts: 233 | Location: S.W. Virginia | Registered: 27 September 2001
Ok, that brings up the queston of should the bullet need a cannelure? The Lee crimper says it will crimp even non-cannelured bullets, and indeed that's the way it works on the .45 ACP
quote:Originally posted by franke: I use the Lee crimper on my 30/30 cartridges. They must be crimped,and are crimped into a cannelure in the bullet. It works better then anything that I tried before. I am not sure that it would be better on a bullet without a cannelure. I am still using taper or profile crimpers on them.
quote:Originally posted by wjb3: Ok, that brings up the queston of should the bullet need a cannelure? The Lee crimper says it will crimp even non-cannelured bullets, and indeed that's the way it works on the .45 ACP
and yet another subject in this same vein: I have tried the Lee Collet die on the .223, and find that it is really simple, but since I can't really tell when I've applied the recommended "40 lbs" of pressure, I just don't know if it's really getting the job done. I think that running a the Lee crimper die as another step would increase my confidence
I've found that using the Lee Factory crimp die when loading Barnes bullets has been a major factor in getting these notoriously resistant to grouping bullets to,in fact, group.
I seem to be getting overwhelmed by this overflowing of data here. some one tell me if I should get a Lee factory crimper for my 45/70,which I do not grimp into any cannelure or groove. I have already went from rollcrimp Herter's to Lee profile and now to Redding profile die. I like the Redding very much. Should the Lee factory be even better? thanks
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Posts: 202 | Location: Newburgh,New York Orange | Registered: 21 March 2001
The only Lee product that I have tried that I was 100%+ satisfied with is the Lee Factory Crimp die. Even if they do not make it in your caliber, like the 416 Rigby, spend the $25 and get one made. You won't be sorry. And they do a fantastic job of crimping even non grooved bullets like the Barnes X. The addition of 1/4 turn crimp turned a Rem 700 Sendero 7mm STW from a 2" shooter to a 3/4" shooter. Nothing else was changed, just added a touch of crimp.
Thanks BCB,I was just being hopefull I guess. I'll have to start getting them for the rifles I guess(I have them for 3 pistol cals and saw some of them interchanged)
Posts: 233 | Location: S.W. Virginia | Registered: 27 September 2001
frank: I'd stick with anything that I found works well for me, but I'll tell you, since starting this discussion I've used the Lee crimper to crimp .45 ACP and .223 Rem. with really good results. The .223 shoots well anyway, but the .45 needs perfect ammo to feed properly I've had no feed problems since using the Lee. Now to see if it will help my .300 Wby group.
WJB3 Thanks. That is the kind of answer that I hoped for. I load for over a dozen calibers and some of my dies are a little Old,like my Herter's,which I bought back in the '50's. I am gadually upgrding my dies,and I'll take your advice into account.
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Posts: 202 | Location: Newburgh,New York Orange | Registered: 21 March 2001
As for crimping rifle bullets.... I have read here that they should be crimped if the bullet is going to be "jarred" around while walking in the wild, etc. is there a reason to crimp if only using that bullet at the range?
The 2 "theory's" of why the crimp die improves accuracy are: 1. With the crimp you are supposed to build consistant pressure before the bullet starts to move out of the case.
2. The crimp ring keeps a slight "grip" or light contact with the bullet as it leaves the case and helps guide it into your rifling.
ARE these true?? The above are alot of good testimony but I've seen lots where they didn't help. I do have several crimp dies for use with autos and lever actions. They work very smooth--seem to do a consistant job, and are very cheaply priced. What the heck--for the $$$ invested they are worth a try in my book. MY last thought is that if I crimp I want to make sure I did a smooth chamfer on the inside of my case mouth. I don't want to scratch the heck out of the heal of the bullet as it passes by the crimp on its way out--to me that would be like scratching the heck out of the bullet as you seat it. (This indeed if the crimp is "guiding" the bullet as the ads say)!
Two comments here from my own use of the Lee crimp die. I could not stop the bullets from "Growing" when loading 300 gr solids in my 375H&H, in other words, recoil from rounds fired slowly and steadily pulled the bullets from the case of the ones in the magazine. Bought the Lee crimp die and never had the problem since. As to the question about crimping the bullets in the 45/70 I would ask what you are going to use them in? If I shoot my Ruger No 1 or the Browning SS, I don't crimp the bullets. If I run them into the Marlin with tubular magazine, I crimp them every time. It works for me and the Lee crimp die seems to be just about fool-proof. "Shoot straight, shoot safe and shoot a lot!"
Trapper, I crimp all of my 45/70 cartridges because I shoot old origional Springfields and only use lead bullets. The case mouth must be belled before seating the bullet,and this bell must be removed. My crimp is a very light crimp to give a consistant firm grip on the bullet. I don't think that the Lee Factory would improve my groups,but,as the Man said,It may be worth a try.
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Posts: 202 | Location: Newburgh,New York Orange | Registered: 21 March 2001
quote:Originally posted by 'Trapper': Two comments here from my own use of the Lee crimp die. I could not stop the bullets from "Growing" when loading 300 gr solids in my 375H&H, in other words, recoil from rounds fired slowly and steadily pulled the bullets from the case of the ones in the magazine. Bought the Lee crimp die and never had the problem since. As to the question about crimping the bullets in the 45/70 I would ask what you are going to use them in? If I shoot my Ruger No 1 or the Browning SS, I don't crimp the bullets. If I run them into the Marlin with tubular magazine, I crimp them every time. It works for me and the Lee crimp die seems to be just about fool-proof. "Shoot straight, shoot safe and shoot a lot!"
Change subject... how the heck do I get a "signature" to appear on my posts???
