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What do you guys look for when you pick a powder to start with? For example, you just picked up a new rifle, in a caliber that you have not previously loaded for. You are looking for the best accuracy. What factors do you look at to determine where to start? | ||
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I usually look in a couple of manuals for a powder in the med slow/ slow range that is recommended for more then one bullet wgt and is listed in all the manuals I`m serching and try it first. With some cartridges I listen to the people that have gone before me and use their recommendations. Such as 4831/130 gr bullets in the 270 win or H4350 /180 gr bullets in the `06. ------------------------------------ The trouble with the Internet is that it's replacing masturbation as a leisure activity. ~Patrick Murray "Why shouldn`t truth be stranger then fiction? Fiction after all has to make sense." (Samual Clemens) "Saepe errans, numquam dubitans --Frequently in error, never in doubt". | |||
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I look for the fastest 3 powders that fill the case the most with a max load, as listed,(must be more than 80% full) and work with them. I of course start with a medium load and then work-up by a half grain. Once I reach the max I am comfortable with, I test within 2 grains below max for accuracy. My personal opinion is that powder is not really the major accuracy factor, but it sure can reduce velocity. Once I get the velocity I tinker with bullet seating, neck tension, etc., BUT ONLY ONE CHANGE AT A TIME!! I think my method takes longer than most people are willing to work with, but it has given me great results that I am proud of and have complete confidence in my rifles. | |||
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One of Us |
I look at a couple manuals and see what powders seem to produce the best velocity and then check what I have onhand and pick what I already have as usually I have something suitable. But I use what I have on hand most often as I'm seriously interested in reducing the number of powders I keep here. If one has H-414 and H-4831 and RL22 and RL25, he probably can pick something to use from them. At least for big game hunting rifles. /////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// "Socialism is a philosophy of failure, the creed of ignorance, and the gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery." Winston Churchill | |||
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One of Us |
I like to start with a powder that gives higher velocities with the lowest pressure. | |||
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One of Us |
That's how I do it too.That works real good for me.That's where I usually get my most accurate loads. | |||
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one of us |
Put me in the 100% load density (read slow powders) w/ acceptable vel. & good accuracy promise. Often 100% loads will prove the most accurate but not the fastest. Sometimes you get lucky & get both exc. accuracy & highest vel. & lower pressures. LIFE IS NOT A SPECTATOR'S SPORT! | |||
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one of us |
I went through a lot of powder types, then I realized powder didn't make as much difference as bullets, and have pretty much reduced my usage down to H-4350 for my current mediums. Say, for 6.5x55, 270, and 30-06 - it works well. It's relatively temperature-stable, easy to meter, fills approximately 90% for the velocities I shoot, and I find it accurate enough. It may not give the best results for any particular cartridge, but if I had to pick one powder, that's what it would be. (If I had a bunch of short-action cartridges, I might be tempted to pick something else - like RL-15 or Varget.) Jaywalker | |||
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one of us |
I look at a few manuals and pick out a few powders that produce good velocity,then try some test loads with each. | |||
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One of Us |
I look at a few reloading manuals and pick out some powders that are about halfway down the list. These powders usually correspond to an average burn rate for that particular caliber. I like for a powder to be in the 90% plus case density range. This is where you will typically get the best velocities. Often times, you will get better accuracy by using a powder with a slighly faster burn rate. However, you will usually be sacrificing velocity, so it all depends on the application of the particular load (hunting vs. target work) | |||
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Ditto on the manuals! I too look for at near or full case capacity with good velocity and go from there. I have picked up the QuickLoad software and that has helped in determining burn rates quite well and other stuff- it is subjective but it does help. | |||
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One of Us |
Both the Barnes and the Hornady reloading manuals give you an idea of what powders worked best. Especially in the case of the Hornady manual, I've found the recommendations to be very helpful. I also ask questions in the reloading section of various forums like this one. | |||
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One of Us |
First off, I'd never consider loading anything without consulting a minimum of three manuals. So far, no one has defined Best Powder yet. I spent yrs searching for that Best for each cartridge, each bullet etc. Had three shelve's full of partly filled can's. Never was satisfied completely. It was endless and always a hassle. Finally after much study and deciding I don't really care if my loads are top velocity, long as they are at a good vel and accuracy is good. Settled on 4895 for everything except pistol's. From .223 to .375H&H. One powder does it all. It's a very good "Average" velocity powder. Meters well, priced better than most, can use it with any bullet, any caliber rifle. IMO those things out weigh fighting the "load development" ordeal for everything. I'm always a grain or two less than max when things settle down to do the job at hand. Study those tables and YOU decide what YOU want to accomplish. That's the most important part. You don't drive your vehicle full throttle all the time, right?? Why do it with your guns?? Wish you well, George "Gun Control is NOT about Guns' "It's about Control!!" Join the NRA today!" LM: NRA, DAV, George L. Dwight | |||
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One of Us |
Thanks guys, you all do pretty much the same thing that I do. I just thought I owuld ask in case there was a better way. Thanks again. | |||
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