What is the easiest and best way to check bullet run out and what do the bullets with the most run out cause, scattering, horizonal stringers?

Blob1, I have one of the Sinclair runout gages, and it is very simple to use. I like it a lot.

As far as cartridges with bullets loaded with a lot of runout, I don't have a good answer for you as to their tendancies, other than the obvious, that they just aren't consistent. Maybe others here have more technical insight.

Regards--Don

Blob1
I also use the Sinclair concentricity gage.
As I understand it. The theory is that the bullet enters/engraves in the groves at the off axis attitude and exits the muzzle at the same angle. There by one edge of the bullet base clears the muzzle ahead of the rest. This causes the same accuracy problems as a damaged crown. Although usually not as pronounced.

The BIG question is how much run out is too much and how much can you ignore? You can look like a puppy chasing it's tail with this one. I know I did.

muck

Blob,

This may sound kind of silly but, I roll mine on the Kitchen table or any other really flat surface like a counter top. While looking horizontally at a white background (The Wall). I just roll them on the table and the ones that visably wobble are put in one stack and the visably straight ones are put in my "Good" stack. You can use the bad ones for foulers. I know this isn't near as accurate as these guys using the Concentricity gauge but, it works, the loads that are visably straight shoot much better than the crooked loads. I actually had them shoot a 1/3 of the size group as the crooked rounds last time I compared them.

Good Luck!

Reloader

No rolling them doesn't sound silly. We checked a lot of shafts in the oil field off shore that way, of course they were a lot bigger. I just was wondering as I am going to start checking the runout. I can shoot through the same hole 3 times and then here comes the 1.500 flyer. Thought that run out might be causing some of it.

HOW ACCURATE DO YOU WANT TO BE
Quality ammunition is a product of good reloading skills and tools. There are many makers of reloading dies. Quality varies widely . All will work to produce usable ammunition. Accurate ammo requires better QUALITY dies. Just like the rifle, the dies must be concentric in order to be accurate.

Each component must be as concentric and accurately made as possible. This is why you often hear reloaders talk of using brass from 'one lot,' it provides uniformity. Primer pockets must be the same depth from case to case. The primer must be seated to the same depth on each case. The cases must not be bent, some dies will actually bend the neck of the case. Powder charges must be carefully weighed so that each charge is the same as the last. Good quality bullets must be used. Care must be taken when seating bullets not to bend the case in the die. Conventional bullet seaters will often bend the neck because the bullet is not held concentric during the seating process. you need to use an Inline bullet seaters . The idea is to hold the case and the bullet concentrically while seating the bullet. The last consideration is seating depth, again uniformity is the name of the game.
I use a stony point measuring device.
Once the seating depth is established start by seating your bullet .050 inches off the lands. Do some shooting to find your most accurate powder charge. Once you have located a good load varying the seating depth will help tighten the groups. Start by seating the bullet deeper by an additional .010 inches at a time. Fire test groups, when you find the best group sometimes adjusting the seating depth by .005 inches one way or the other will tighten the group even further. Best accuracy usually occurs between .050 and .080 inches. On rare occasion seating the bullet closer to the lands will be more accurate.
Remember that the brass is the base for developing the load and if it is not good then then the loads and accuracy will suffer.
Dave

I am a run out slut myself, use the RCBS Casemaster. First I was astounded at how crooked my loads were. Then I was frustrated that I could not correct it. Then I started experimenting and graduated from Run Out University. Not all of my guns are as sensitive to it as some, but a crooked bullet will NOT shrink group size. Thing that surprised me most of all is that if you index your ammo on the Concentricity gauge, and load them all with the same orientation, crooked ammo will shoot well for the most part. Only takes a tic mark with a magic marker on the case. Then you shoot 4 rounds with the tic mark at 12 o'clock, and the 5th at 3 o'clock. You'll see what I'm talking about. Make bets with your buddies at the range, load the gun for them, take all their money.

I have a Texas Instrument guage for checking runout. I don't use it much anymore. I've pretty much switched to Wilson knockout neck dies as well as the Redding NS bushing dies. Between the two I rarely have major runout problems any longer. Best wishes. Best wishes.

Cal - Montreal

quote:

Originally posted by Reloader:
Blob,

This may sound kind of silly but, I roll mine on the Kitchen table or any other really flat surface like a counter top. While looking horizontally at a white background (The Wall). I just roll them on the table and the ones that visably wobble are put in one stack and the visably straight ones are put in my "Good" stack.
Good Luck!

Reloader

Nothing funny here....this practice has been used for decades at least. It's all that one needs and works well.

Hivelosity I know all that and understand what you are saying. But thousands of people reload using just a simple RCBS press and a few tools and produce great results. I used to do the same when I was reloading a 30/06. I know many who just simply resize, reprime, repowder and seat a bullet and do real good. Simple and easy.