Guys, I'm trying to find the max. overall length on my 700 ADL in 7mm-08. I've followed the instructions from the Nosler manual, but thinks either I'm doing something wrong, or the book is full of it.
According to the book, take a fired shell, dent the mouth, and place a bullet in it, seated as long as possible. Then mark the bullet with a marker, and slowly and carefully load the round. So far so good, but when I take it out, I cannot tell where the end of the mark is, maybe the crimp groove is interfering with it???
Here's the hard part for me, it says to remove the bullet, and replace it into the neck, pushing it until the mark from the lands is even with the end of the brass. OK, now what, no mark cause of the crimp ring, and what I could see, had me seating it lower then the overall length, way below what I've been seating at???
Measuring the overall length of the bullet several times after doing this, the length I get is 2.852".
Hummm, max. OAL is 2.800" with the 7-08. Looks good, but according to the Nosler manual, I should push the bullet deeper (see above).
Please enlighten me to what is correct???
Thanks,
Bulldog...

I have tried to establish overall length the way you describe and hate it. I doubt wether it�s possible to do it accurately that way, anyway it�s a time waster. I use a metall rod slightly smaller than caliber diameter (cleaning rod). Close the bolt (action cocked, don�t pull the trigger), push the rod trough the barrel from the muzzle until it stops at the bolt face. Then I put on two stop rings (like the ones used on drill bits to controll how deep you drill) While pushing the rod towards the bolt face I push the stop rings against the muzzle and fasten the outer ring. Remove rod, open action, slip a bullet into the barrel trough the chamber, gently tap so it stops at the lands. Now push the rod back in, gently, until it stops at the nose of the bullet. fasten the inner stop ring. Remove the rod, take your calipers and measure the distance between the stop rings. It�s the maximum OAL of you cartridge. Easy and accurate. Remember that bullets from the same box can have slightly different lengths, so if you plan on seating close to the lands the bullet(s) used to establish OAL should be used to adjust your seating die.

Stoney Point makes a great OAL gauge for doing this. It can be purchased from most of the major reloading suppliers. They also sell a comparator for measuring from the Ogive of the bullet instead of the tip which is much more accurate for OAL.

bulldog: Do what Sharkbait suggests. Get the Stoney Point gauges & measure to the ogive. Don't screw around with it anymore. Bear in Fairbanks

Before I got the stoney point kit I made caliber specific shells for many calibers just as explained about. NOW when I have to check bullets guess what I usually grab.......my old tools. They work absolutely perfect once you get a feel for them. A little trick is to try not to dent the mouth but rather down the neck a little further. You also have to get pretty good at extracting the bullet and not letting it rub or tug against the chamber. Do several measurements and check for consistancy. They work just fine.

I agree with Shark Bait, a bullet comparator is essential for accurately and safely establishing seating depths. I have found surprisingly wide inconsistencies in bullet lengths when measured from the ogive or that part of the bullet that first engages the lands. An example would be a new box of Nosler Partitions that I loaded for my 300 H&H. Only 40 out of 50 measured within a .002" tolerance. Many measured more that .005" longer or shorter than this standard. I think one could get into trouble attempting to seat "close" to the lands, but had bullet lengths (as measured from ogive) that varied by a measure greater than
your desired "off the lands" seating depth.

A bullet comparator is cheap and a very useful tool on the reloading bench.

Just bought a Stoney Point OAL guage. I checked it 5-6 times. Started out with 2.850" then it worked down to 2.843"??? I guess I need to take the average and go from there. Yes, I tapped it so very slightly and still got different readings. Maybe I'm getting copper build up?..LOL!!!
Bulldog...

Here is a little tip that I found works really well when using the Stoney point OAL gauge. Insert the SP gauge until the bullet touches the rifling. Then gently insert a cleaning rod in the muzzle so that it just touches the bullet. You can then use one hand to push the bullet into the rifling and the other to push the bullet off of the rifling. You can then move the bullet back and forth in the cartridge until you get just the right feel of the bullet contacting the rifling. Once you get the feel for the bullet just kissing the rifling your readings will become more consistent.

I use sharkbaits method with my Stony point, it works! One thought to keep in mind, your better off making a case for the gauge from one of your fired cases than useing the one Stonypoint supplies. The headspace on the case they give you and the one fire formed in your rifle will vary the measurement of your OAL. The fire formed case will be more accurate. (and your own case is cheaper)

guys refer to doing what sharkbait said, I don't see a post by sharkbait, did something get deleted from the thread?

Red

I got the Hornady kit for case length / head space measurement and for bullet seating. Now I get my ammo a lot more precise and consistent - repeatable every time.

I still mark the bullet with a Sharpie and note where the lands engage but I chamber a sized case which makes a clear ring as it scrapes off the sharpie colour. Now I can just knock out the bullet with a cleaning rod & seat it using the Hornady tool and know how far exactly it is away from the lands. I aim for 0.030 inch for most ammo & 0.050 inch for Barnes bullets.