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I am new to all of this and would like to know if a powder trickler is a necessary tool. Or are they just a handy tool to have around? | ||
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lt's a "Must Have" Mate!!! That's how you run your loads up on the scales, if you're not just dumping them from the measure. Check the instructions in your reloading manual for details. Regards. Dave. .... | |||
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+1 Without a trickler, you're just dumping powder and from my experiences, It's a real big gamble with accuracy of loads unless you're into the ultra high end powder despensers that you can't buy at a sporting goods store. Most powder dumpers I've seen very as much as 2gr. or less from throw to throw. If you're being told that it's a not needed then be careful with the rest of the advice from those sources. I would say the VAST majority of people on this site use that tool plus a set of reloading techniques that could almost be mirrored from each person. I would suggest posting more questions about reloading on this site and see what you get. I can say I've definately learned a lot from being a member. -Everybody has a dream hunt, mine just happens to be for a Moose.- -The 30-06 is like a perfect steak next to a campfire, a .300 Win Mag is the same but with mushrooms and a baked potato- | |||
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Warbag53, If you use a balance beam scale, then to top off your powder charge, you would use a tickler for the last few tenths of your charge. 6.5 SWEDE. | |||
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Don't go to the loading room without it. While in my real early years I used a small spoon to add those last few grains a trickler is $10-12 well spent. As usual just my $.02 Paul K | |||
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Depends on the powder being dispensed, the dispensing equipment being used, and the desired level of accuracy. If you're happy with your charges, you probably won't use it. If you're loading fully on a progressive press, there's no place for it. Otherwise, Redding No. 5. | |||
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I have the Redding tricler. Its nice , heavy, solid and wont get knocked over | |||
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When I started reloading I had no use for it. Now it is as essential as the scale. “I am an American; free born and free bred, where I acknowledge no man as my superior, except for his own worth, or as my inferior, except for his own demerit.” Theodore Roosevelt (1858 – 1919) | |||
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This is an excellent little gadget which has a place in your loading technique. Member NRA, SCI- Life #358 28+ years now! DRSS, double owner-shooter since 1983, O/U .30-06 Browning Continental set. | |||
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A trickler is a must have. Get the Redding. It is built really well. | |||
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Years ago, I bought an RCBS trickle charger and whenever I used it, it would move around and was very unstable. THE FIX: I removed the rotor, took a drill with a reamer bit and scored the inside of the bottom of the trickler and filled it with melted lead. Now the trickler stays put when it's in use. I'd have to say that most likely, the cast iron ones are better made than the aluminum ones! Chuck - Retired USAF- Life Member, NRA & NAHC | |||
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It's not at all a "must have" but sure is a handy little tool. Add weight to the bottom to keep them "put". /////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// "Socialism is a philosophy of failure, the creed of ignorance, and the gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery." Winston Churchill | |||
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+1 on the need for a trickler, AND, the Redding is the best of the lot. It's heavier than any of the competition tricklers. It stays in place and doesn't move around when trickling. I tried the others, and was frustrated with the things moving around all the time. Don | |||
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+1 to what everyone else said. I have the RCBS trickler. It's certainly fine. But it's lightweight and a bit flimsy feeling. Not so much that I want to replace it, but you might try the Redding or other model. LWD | |||
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I used one of the manual tricklers until I bought the battery operated trickler from Midway. This works well but I have since bought the vibrating Lyman trickler and it is always plugged in and ready to go. It is a bit faster than the others. | |||
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A manual tickler is about 300% better than no tricker. A powered Frankford arsenal or vibra shine tricker is about 500% better than a manual model. BUY A SELF POWERED MODEL ---------------------------------------- If you waste your time a talkin' to the people who don't listen To the things that you are sayin' who do you thinks gonna hear And if you should die explainin' how the thing they complain about Or the things they could be changing who do you thinks gonna care Waylon Jennings | |||
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I'll give a BIG VOTE TO the Vibrashine Electric trickler. I got mine for about $15---now they are probably $20. They discharge pretty fast to bring the scale up...and then you can just tap on the top of the unit with a finger to meter in the last granules about 1/tap. I love it...it's very fast and very accurate. | |||
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Welcome to the forum warbag53. I think a powder trickler is a necessary tool. The most common use is when you are working up loads and want to take out any variables in the weight of your charge. I know some will cringe but I load a lot on my Dillon presses and they through quite consistent charges. Bill Member DSC,DRSS,NRA,TSRA A man who carries a cat by the tail learns something he can learn in no other way. -Mark Twain There ought to be one day - just one – when there is open season on Congressmen. ~Will Rogers~ | |||
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To each his own. I have an RCBS trickler on the bench and have NOT used it in years. I do however like my make shift version better. It is a 458 Winnie case(finaly found a use for the thing) , that gets the topping off powder. I find it to be faster and easier to use than the RCBS type with the spinning tube. Keith IGNORE YOUR RIGHTS AND THEY'LL GO AWAY!!! ------------------------------------ We Band of Bubbas & STC Hunting Club, The Whomper Club | |||
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new member |
Thank you for all the replys to my question. I will look into acquiring a trickler and will look at a model that packs some weight. I had thought about the Lyman model that is extendable in height, around $16.00-17.00, but I think it might be light in the weight dept.. Thank you. | |||
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......just buy the Redding and start loading. Good Hunting, Bob There is room for all of God's creatures....right next to the mashed potatoes. http://texaspredatorposse.ipbhost.com/ | |||
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I started out useing my fingers 50+ years ago for a tickler and still useing them.I bought a rcbs a few years ago used it a couple times and went back to useing my fingers. | |||
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I have a couple of tricklers,but seldom use them. I find my Belding& Mull powder measure will meter any type powder accurately enough that a tickler is not needed. | |||
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If you have never used one you will never miss it. Once you use it, you will never be without it. In short, yes you need one! | |||
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Some benchrest guys use a english seed planter to add or remove 1 gr of powder | |||
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For repetive dead on consistency, they can't be beat. I too have the Redding unit and think it is very good. *#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*# I'll never be able to give back to this forum all that I've learned from it. But I do want to thank those of you that have helped me out over the years. | |||
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I don't use a trickler so I guess I don't know what I'm missing out on. I use a small Lee powder scoop that I've gotten good with over the years, even down to one kernel of powder. but since I've started reloading more again, I'll invest in one soon. The Redding looks to be the best bang for the buck. | |||
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+1 Fitch | |||
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I made a lead base for the RCBS trickler, by turning it over, filling it with cast bullets, and putting the blow torch on it. Now it doesn't tip over, but I don't use it any more. I now use the Lee powder dipper and tap it with my finger to add more powder to the scale. If I put too much in, I scoop some back out. It is very fast. Someone who uses a trickler may get fast loading the same load and just topping off for powder measure error. But for load work ups, I think my system is 10 times faster than a trickler. | |||
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If you are using a good powder measure like the Redding, then a trickler is unnecessary with ball-type powders because the measure will throw charges closer than your scale can measure. If you are loading coarse stick-type powders like 4064, 4831, etc., then even the best of measures will only get you within about .25 grain consistently. The most effective method is to set the measure so that its heaviest throws are at the desired weight and average throws are a tad light. Then use the trickler to bring the weight up to par. The aluminum RCBS model is too light and the spirals to fine. I use an old Herter's model, that like all Herter's products is about 200% heavier than necessary. It's stability and fast feed make short work of trickling coarse powders. Now, with all of that said, I doubt that you can measure either the accuracy or velocity difference between dropped and weighed charges in most medium to large calibers. Some bench shooters insist that, particularly with even-metering powders, the dropped charges are more accurate than weighed charges because they are volumetrically identical rather than weight identical. Still, I prefer to weigh my stick powders to achieve better consistency. | |||
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Tricklers? I don't need no stinkin' trickler! I've been using the same plastic pill bottle for 36 years to 'trickle' in a grain or three to top up the underweight measured charge of extruded powder. Ball powders are thrown exact enough using the RCBS powder measure...no 'tricklin' needed. I wouldn't use a store bought trickler even if you gave me the best one made. My hand\eye coordination and the pill bottle gives me a fast top up on my digital scale. Your needs might be different if you still use a beam scale where the hook gets in the way of the scale pan. | |||
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