The Accurate Reloading Forums THE ACCURATE RELOADING.COM FORUMS Guns, Politics, Gunsmithing & Reloading Reloading Partial full Length sizingGo | New | Find | Notify | Tools | Reply | |
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Ok, how do you guys do it? I do it on and off. Then end up going back to full length sizing. I set the die to touch the shell holder and then back it off 1/2 turn. Is this the accepted way? Or do you guys get more technical and buy headspace guage and turn it down until you start to barely see the shoulder start moving? I never really see much improvement in accuracy if any. Biggest thing to help my accuracy was to deprime in a separate stage then move the expander ball all the way up as high as it goes. That stopped neck runout issues somewhat. | ||
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I use a real high tech method  I use a magic marker making a line on the case neck and shoulder. I adjust my FL die to just go to the shoulder (these are cases that have been fired with the bullet almost into the lands). Then I make sure the case will chamber in that particular rifle. | |||
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I always full size. Not any more trouble and I can not tell the cases last longer if not full length sized... | |||
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I always full size, but I do not screw the die in so far as to push back the shoulder, if the brass is going back into the same rifle. Get rid if the sizer ball, and only lube on the outside. Seat the bullets long, and find what length that bullet wants to shoot in that gun. | |||
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Hot core, that is the way I have done it for years, but really can't get a consistent feel for when I see resistence, or not. I maybe been doing it right for years, and worrying about nothing. If I had a press setup perminantly for one caliber, I would like this way. But it is alot of setup work, each time you change calibers. One thing I was going to use, is this master set of calibration discs. Basically these set of discs of varying thickness accurate within .0005" used by machinist for calibration of thier calibers. Figured once I find the neck of a rifle, and have my die setup, I could use these to put between my shell holder and die for long as I load for that rifle. | |||
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Eld, I tried this last night. Seems to show where the neck sizing stops. Figured its only another 7 dollars for a neck guage from stoney point. This will work for now. Only thing, this doesn't sound very consistent when loading alot of cartridges. Clark, I don't know how your getting your bullets in your brass without an expander. If I did that, I would have copper cutting off the bullets, unless I use my redding bushing sizer. This also can cause runout issues I have found. I don't recommend it. | |||
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Quote: Hey Clark, When you do that, do you do anything special to polish the inside of the case-mouth after trimming? Any problem Seating Flat Base bullets? I'm always willing to try something new myself. I can see where getting rid of the Expander would eliminate a lot of the problems the "Neck Sizer" folks have with the neck concentricity getting skewed. Did you happen to run any long distance tests to see if leaving the Expander out made any difference (+ or -) in the accuracy? | |||
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bigcountry: Quote: " The bolt should close on the empty case with just a bit of resistance and you have a PFLRed case." Hot Core does it the same as I do. Its worked great for years. I even vary the bolt lift resistance, by feel, a bit depending on whether the rifle is a varmint rifle or a deer rifle. The only thing that I would add is to be sure the cases are properly fireformed to the chamber of the rifle for which you are setting the FL die. Otherwise you may screw the die down to far on new or once fired brass. knobmtn | |||
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| <eldeguello> |
If you "smoke" the junction area of the neck/shoulder with a match or candle, you can sure see where the die touches!! | ||
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HC, I do not usually do anything to the inside of the necks, but when I am trying for accuracy to the max, I put 0000 steel wool on a bore brush and spin it in the chuck of a mini lathe. I run that thru the necks while pushing in and out and spinning the brass in my fingers. That takes lots of time, and does not make enough difference for me to be worth it. I have never had a problem in my life seating a jacketed bullet in a neck that saw the die but not the sizer ball. If I do, I will do a later step of belling the mouth with the sizer. I HAVE had plenty of trouble with cast bullets that wanted a shave. BC, When you chamfer the case mouth, are you cutting until you get a cookie cutter case mouth? The bevel on the back of bullets acts as an introducer for me, and boat tails are even better. I DO have cases colapse on bullet introduction in straight wall pistol cases sometimes, and then I bell the mouth a little. | |||
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Thanks Clark. I do the 0000SteelWool polish on the inside of the Caseneck too. I just put the brush in one of the Green Plastic RCBS handles and give them a back and forth twist which also removes those burrs remaining from Chamfering and Deburring. This makes a considerable difference in the smoothness of the case which can easily be seen on my Moly Coated bullets. Thanks again. | |||
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Quote:Hey bigcountry, Maybe you are indeed doing it the same way Knobmtn and I do it. Perhaps you are going "past" the length you are looking for. Take a cartridge you know for sure has been up near SAFE MAX and use it to do your Set-Up with, or use some of the High Intensity factory ammo to get a box of cases. Then instead of screwing the Full Length Resizer in 1/4 turn at a time, use 1/8 or 1/16 turn. You only have to do this "one time" and then minor adjustments are easy. As you lower the FL Die, it will begin resizing the Caseneck. As you go a bit lower, the FL Die will make contact with the Casebody at the Pressure Ring(if you don't know where this is located, let me know which Speer Manual you have and I'll point you to a picture). As the Pressure Ring and casebody are reformed to a smaller diameter, that causes the distance from the Casehead to the Datum Point on the Caseshoulder to lengthen. As this occurs, most of the Caseneck has been resized and at some point you will have difficulty closing the Bolt on the Case because it is too long to fit in the chamber. You continue to very slowly screw the FL Die into the press which causes more of the Casebody to be resized and eventually the Caseshoulder begins to be pushed back ever so slightly. You want to be really careful at this point and screw the FL Die in just a small amount before the next squash. As you continue, the bolt will become easier to close and you have gone too far. So, you need to back the FL Die out just a bit, squash another case and see how it feels. Now, it is time to sit back and relax for a moment while you study the markings on the FL Die. Relube that last case, put it in the press and raise it into the FL Die to hold the Die in position. Screw the Lock Ring down so it touches the Press and for darn sure, do not move the FL Die while you are doing this. Now, put a small piece of masking tape on the Lock Ring and one on the FL Die threaded body just above the one on the Lock Ring. Put a "Black Witness Mark" on both pieces of tape so the marks align with each other. Now, unscrew the FL Die and the Lock Ring slightly while holding them in place. Realign the Witness Marks and tighten the Lock Ring - Set Screw so it is snug. Screw the FL Die back into the Press until the Lock Ring stops it, but don't "Gorilla Grip" it. Lube and squash another case, wipe the lube off and try it in the rifle. If the Bolt closes too hard, the FL Die needs to be screwed "into" the Lock Ring a tiny bit more. Or if the Bolt closes too easily, then the opposite. And guess what?.........Your FL Die is set to P-FLR with Zero Headspace. The only time you really need to re-do this is if you: 1. Decide to reform some cases from another caliber. Here you have to size them a bit more than normal for the initial P-FLR and then once the are fired, you can reset the FL Die to the normal P-FLR position. 2. If you change Shell Holders. Always use the same one, or re-set the P-FLR. 3. If you change Presses. Always use the same one, or re-set the P-FLR. --- Quote:Once you have the Lock Ring in the correct position, it will return to the correct position to P-FLR your cases each time you re-install it in the Press. You must use the same Shell Holder too. Or, if any minor tweeking is needed, follow the above and you can do it quicker than you can re-read it. | |||
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