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<MAKATAK> |
I think you would be pretty close on the powder and primer. As to the shiny cases check out Varmint Al's site at www.cctrap.com for the low down on nickel cases. Play around with Hodgdon's H335 and your seating depth and you probably can beat the Winchester going away. www.centerfirecentral.com is another good site for many loads. | ||
<rifleman> |
MAKATAK, Thanks for the reply. I know what yo're saying about the nickel plated brass. That's why I was asking if it really helps with accuracy or if it was just for looks. I don't want to use nickel unless it is necessary. This round is very accurate in my rifle, and thought I'd give duplicating it a shot. I'll keep you posted on my progress. There's a gun show in town tomorrow. I'm going to see if there's any deals on powders, brass, pimers, and bullets. Dave | ||
<Reloader66> |
Nickel plated brass is not on my list of relaodable brass to use. Stick to regular brass cases. Reloads will always produce better groups than factory ammo. You must find that powder, bullet combination through testing. That is why reloading evolved to what it is today. | ||
<rifleman> |
Reloader66, I figure that I can make the round shoot even better than the factory item by handloading. I've been having trouble finding the right combo in my rifle to consistently give me decent accuracy. In my travels on this forum "wizard" suggested trying this load to see how the rifle likes it. He suggested that it might be the finest factory round available, and it might help indicate if my rifle has some problems. It shoots very well, and I figure I can make it even better. I'll also continue to work on other load development, but I'll have a good round in the meantime. I just was curious as to the possible components going into this round to narrow the search. Thanks for any input. Dave And actually, if I get this load to provide tack driving qualities and terminal performance, the only real reason to keep looking seems to be the cost factor? Yes or no? [This message has been edited by rifleman (edited 02-09-2002).] | ||
one of us |
Just a note on the powder-canister powders have to be manufactured to be consistent from Lot to Lot whereas powders manufactured for the commercial ammunition companies are one batch at a time and around a specification. I asked this question at a shot show many years ago with a process engineer David Throwbridge with OLIN (Winchester) who went into detail on this subject. I have in my younger years even pulled bullets in a futile attempt to identify the powder. DWM | |||
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<rifleman> |
Busa Dave, And just so I understand what you're saying: There is no way to know what is in them and they almost certainly are NOT any commercially made powders on the shelf at gun dealers for retail purchase. So good luck at trying to duplicate any factory load. Just start from scratch and have at it? Do I got it now? Dave | ||
<2ndaryexplosioneffect> |
quote:
Second: Buy the cheapest components available by the pound. Third: Ship it to an Alaskan wholesaler via the cheapest means possible and have it thrown on & off trucks and loading docks as much as possible. Let it sit for a year until it goes on clearance sale. Repeat shipping to gun store. Fourth: Ship it to your local sporting goods store via the cheapest means possible and have it thrown on & off trucks and loading docks as much as possible. Let it sit on a shelf for a year until you buy it. OR: 223 Warning: The max. velocity on this bullet is 3400 f/s. Bullet fragmenting in flight may cause an occasional �flyer�. A slightly reduced powder charge will alleviate this problem. NOTHING makes more impact in a 223 load. Shoot safe, | ||
one of us |
Rifleman, You are correct and good luck in you quest! DWM | |||
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